Climbing Route Description

TO MT. PIONER VIA THE NORTHERN FACE.

1. General Geographical Information

Mt. Pioner is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, in the northern spurs of the Tian Shan mountains. The height of the described peak is 4100 meters above sea level. The Malo-Almatinsky spur extends far to the north from the main ridge and is bordered by two gorges of the Malaya Almatinka and Leviy Talgar rivers. It ends with a small horseshoe-shaped formation of nine peaks, creating the Bogdanovich glacier cirque. The Bogdanovich glacier, 2 km long, gives rise to the Komosomolka stream, which flows into the Leviy Talgar river. The snow line of the ridge is at 3400-3500 meters above sea level. The eastern, southern, and western slopes are free from glaciation. Pink granite is the primary rock forming the Pioner - Uchitel peaks massif. The proximity of the desert and semi-desert zone significantly influences the harsh mountain climate, creating very favorable weather conditions for year-round climbing. The average annual temperature is +7...+10 °C. The minimum temperatures in January are -30...-35 °C. The prevailing wind direction is southwest.

2. Route Description to the Summit

There are two classified routes to the summit of Mt. Pioner:

1. Category 1B difficulty - via the western couloir from Pioner sky pass;

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent region — Zailiyskiy Alatau 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Pioner 4050 m via the left part of the southern wall 4. Expected difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference of the wall section 190, ridge section — 210 m, b) length of sections — II difficulty category — 460 m, III difficulty category — 135 m, IV difficulty category — 40 m, c) average steepness of the route — 60° 6. Number of pitons driven:

SKA SAVO

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE SOUTH WALL OF PIK PIONER 4050 m (left side) VIA ROUTE CAT. III (approx.)

SKA SAVO Team

Golodov Yu.F. — Master of Sports — team leader, Chumakov V.D. — Candidate Master of Sports — team member, Pavlov V.F. — 1st class — team member, Nesolenyi V.P. — 2nd class — team member, Mozgovoi A.G. — 2nd class — team member. 190 cm, 40 m, 60°, 3 stoppers, 5 hours.

Almaty

June 22, 1980

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent region: North Tien-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Pik Pioner (4031 m), from Pioner pass.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B
5. Height difference: 170 m total route length: 300 m, wall section length: — of which 5 pitches — 0.6 pitches — 0, average steepness of wall section — 40°, average steepness of route — 40°
6. Pitons driven (numbers in denominator — for IT): no data for rock, ice, cams, bolted
7. Number of walking hours/days:
8. Overnight stays: —

Partizan ZB category via South-East Ridge

Route description.

The approach to the route is through Tuyuksu or Igly Tuyuksu passes. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Yuzhny Partizan glacier. From here, head to the saddle between the first and second towers of the south-eastern ridge. The path lies along the snowy and icy slopes. Before reaching the saddle:

• Turn left towards the couloir
• Exit the couloir onto the ridge above the two characteristic rock outcrops
• Control point is located here Further:
• Traverse left along the not very distinct ledges
• Approach the internal corner, which ends with a 7-meter wall

Partizan ZB c.l. via North-West face

Route description.

The ascent begins by approaching the north-west face of the peak via the Igly Tuyksu glacier. Here, on the moraine, is a convenient location for the initial bivouac. The route starts with an ascent up a firn slope, leading to a couloir (steepness 30–35°, prone to rockfall). After ascending 200 m, turn into the right branch of the couloir, cross it in its lower part, and exit to the right onto a rocky ridge, continuing along it. Certain sections require careful belaying. In the lower part of the ridge, the rocks are smoothed, and small terraces are encountered. After 50 m, there's an exit to difficult, sheer rocks. Piton belay is necessary (3–4 pitons). Further, for 100 m, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty to a saddle, where the right and left ridges, forming the couloir, converge. Then, there's a section of easy rocks, with scree and snow intermixed, leading to the most challenging, key section of the ascent. There are two options for overcoming this segment of the route:

• The first is a 60 m ascent up the rear, icy wall of the chimney (steepness 65–70°). It requires step-cutting and piton belay.
• The second is an ascent to the left up the chimney, which is no more than one and a half meters wide and has a steepness of 70°. The chimney is clogged with snow and ice, blocked by plugs, stacked one above the other. The height of the chimney to the plugs is 10–12 m. The first plug is passed on the left, the second on the right. Belay is via pitons.

Partizan 2B cat. via West face from Ledik Igla

Route description.

The summit of Partizan is located in the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur. It rises with two rocky towers above its snowy-ice foundation. From the south, the peak is connected to the peaks of Igly Tuyksu by a long, heavily serrated rocky ridge; to the north lies the peak of Ordzhonikidze. They are connected by a 200-meter snow-ice ridge with powerful cornices on its eastern side. From here, the Partizan glacier flows down to the west. The initial bivouac can be conveniently set up on the moraine of the Igly Tuyksu glacier. The ascent begins by approaching the base of the left snow-ice couloir adjacent to the massif of the Ordzhonikidze peak. Traverse the narrowest part of the couloir and exit onto the ice slope. Belaying is with pitons. Crampons are necessary. If the ice sections are heavily exposed, one can:

• turn left onto the rocks
• ascend them with piton belaying to the upper snowy slope
• move along the slope towards the northern tower of Partizan

Traversing the peak Otechestvennoy voyny, 2A category of complexity, in both directions

Route description.

To traverse the peak Otechestvennoy voyny in both directions, one should familiarize themselves with the ascent route descriptions:

• from the northern side
• southern side

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants — 6–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of Tuyuksu glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 6:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

Otechestvennoy voyny 18 c.t. from l. 3 Ordzhonikidze along the S ridge

Route description.

Initial bivouac on the right lateral moraine of Tuyksu glacier. From here, move in the direction of the northwest lateral ridge of Ordzhonikidze peak. Before reaching it, turn left. Ascend a steep scree to the terminal part of Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier, then traverse it to a drop, bypass it on the right, and continue ascending the scree to the last ridge of rocks descending from Mayakovsky peak. From here, begin ascending the western ridge. Traverse easy, broken rocks or, further to the right, a couloir filled with small and medium scree. Upon reaching the ridge, continue moving towards the col between Mayakovsky and Otechestvennoy voyny peaks (50–60 m). Further:

• Scree, followed by broken rocks, will lead to the beginning of the southern ridge of "Otechestvennoy voyny" peak.
• Small gendarmes on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. To rejoin the ridge, overcome a couloir ending in a steep rocky section (pitons, 2–3 hooks). After overcoming several gendarmes directly, reach the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations:

Otechestvennoy voyny 1Б cat. difficulty via Mayakovsky peak's North ridge

Route description.

The peak Otechestvennoy voyny is located in the central part of the Maloalmatinsky spur; Mayakovsky peaks rise to the south of it, and Antikainen peak is to the north. On the western side and northern slopes of the lateral ridge of Mayakovsky peak, a small Mayakovsky Glacier descends. The eastern slopes are cut by narrow stepped couloirs, separated by steep rocky ridges. The starting bivouac is near the Mynzhilki weather station. From here, cross the Malaia Alma-Atinka river and go around the Manshuk Mametova glacier at its foot; then ascend to the ablation zone of the Mayakovsky Glacier. Move along the moraine, then along the