Overview

Peak Amangeldy, 1B, V. Zimin, 1937

This is probably the most frequently visited route in Tuyuk-Su. From Alpinigrad move up the slope located on the left, in the direction of the big gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left, follow the trail upwards, then traverse the talus slope, and then enter the steep couloir. In winter, it may be necessary to put on equipment already there - there may be hard sastrugi in the couloir. In summer, it's talus with rock outcrops. Climb up to the next couloir, move up it until it ends. The start of the route is on a ledge under a steep wall. R0­–R1

• Move right, exit onto a ledge
• From this ledge, climb up an inside corner (15 m II) to the next ledge
• Belay station on a protrusion

Route Description

The approach to the route is from the middle part of the Malo-Almatinsky gorge. Turn from the "Vорота Tuyuk-Su" alpine camp into the Chertovo gorge and organize the initial bivouac among the ancient moraine ridges. The ascent begins on the right lateral moraine. Reach the Abay glacier, traverse it towards the rocks. At the foot of the rocks, organize rope teams. Further ascent is from the left side of the rock massif on snow. The slope steepness is not more than 25–30°. After 60–70 m, there is a passage in the rocks, through which you can cross to the right side of the rock massif. Here, the steepness of the snow slope increases to 35–40°, and the ascent goes straight up to the foot of the summit rock tower. This section (450–500 m) is overcome with thorough belaying. The ascent and descent on it must be done before the sun illuminates the slope and softens the snow. Upon reaching the foot of the tower, turn north and after 30–40 m of easy rock climbing, approach a couloir with a steepness of 35–40°. At the end of the season, it can be icy, and step cutting is necessary. After 25–30 m, turn left towards the rocks and ascend to the tower of the north summit with thorough belaying. This is the main summit of Peak Abay. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not more than 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine of the Abay glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 4 am.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Pioneer

via the right edge of the South Face Category 4A difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioneer 4031 m, via the right edge of the South Face
3. Proposed: Category 4A difficulty

Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Pioneer

via the right part of the South Face 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20_year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioneer 4031 m, via the right edge of the South Face
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.

Tuyuksu via North Ridge from the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier, 3B cat.

Route description.

Cross the Tuyuksu glacier in its initial part, move to the right lateral moraine, reach the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier and follow it to the rocky ridge located on the north-north-eastern slope of the summit massif. The ascent begins here. The first rock is bypassed on the right via a snowy-icy couloir with an exit to the saddle. Further, the path goes along easy rocks to a 15-meter rock wall, with piton belay. A new section of easy rocks leads to a 20-meter rock wall. It can be overcome:

• via a narrow cornice on the left side
• on the right via inclined slabs (caution! "live" stones)

Ordzhonikidze 4A c.c. via the Eastern counterfort

Route description.

The approach to the start of the route is through the Ordzhonikidze Pass. Descend to the East Ordzhonikidze Glacier, bypass the northern wall of the summit, approach the northeast ridge, and move along it down the glacier. Having bypassed the ice fall of the northeast ridge, ascend the scree to its lowering, to the left of the rocky part. Descent from the ridge along the scree to the nameless glacier between the northeast and southeast ridges of the summit. Descending along the glacier past the icefall of the "4089 m" peak, bypass two steep rocky spurs from the right and exit onto the northern counterfort of the southeast ridge of Ordzhonikidze. The exit to the characteristic lowering is via a wide, not clearly expressed couloir (be cautious of rockfall!). Move along the ridge part of the counterfort to the point of its junction with the southeast ridge. First section:

• Overcome an inner corner of a wall, 50-60 m long.
• Behind it is a control cairn. Further:
• Severely destroyed rocks of medium difficulty.
• Movement along the counterfort takes up to 2 hours.

I. Climbing category — rock. 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloalmatinskoye gorge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Uчитель (Teacher), 4030 m, Southwest counterfort. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock route, height difference 400 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 115 m, average steepness — 70°. 6. Number of pitons: rock — 32 (including 4 for creating intermediate belay anchors); ice — not used; bolt pitons — not used; clamps — 2 pieces. 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 (including 3 hours spent on route preparation). 8. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification.

1. Shapovalov Valery Nikolayevich — 1st sports category (leader)
2. Merkeev Sultan Nurtayevich — 2nd sports category (participant)

Route Description

The Lokomotiv peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur - the Kumbel ridge. To complete the ascent via this route, follow these steps:

• Reach the Tuyuk-Su glacier
• Move along the left lateral moraine and cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier flowing into it
• Follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks Ascend via a couloir covered with talus to the ridge north of the rocky tower, which can be bypassed from the west along a steep 200-meter ice slope. Steep sections require:
• Step cutting
• Mass belaying Continue along steep snow-ice sections of the ridge, with cornices in some areas (be cautious!), then along the ridge to the summit, which consists of huge rocky blocks with a steep drop to the northeast. The ascent to the summit is from the southwest; the cairn is located on a large flat boulder.

Description of Mayakovsky Route, 3B via the South Ridge

The ascent begins with a climb to the Ordzhonikidze pass (an initial bivouac can be organized here). From there, descend towards the so-called "частокол" (palisade) and, rounding a large gendarme to the right, reach the "частокол" connecting the peaks of Ordzhonikidze and Mayakovsky. Then, ascend via scree to a narrow saddle, from which a wall with good holds leads to a slab (running belay, 1 piton). Overcoming a ridge via severely damaged rocks, approach the foot of a chimney (running belay, 2 pitons). Behind the chimney lies a ledge; an ascent via a crack leads to an inclined ledge and a second chimney (running belay, 3-4 pitons), which brings you to a ridge composed of monolithic rocks (belay via protrusions). The rocks are of medium difficulty, with challenging sections in places. Ascend along the ridge to the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8-9 hours. The first ascent was made on August 18, 1945, by a group of instructors from the mountain training school, consisting of:

• N. Divari,
• N. Petrovich,
• P. Semenov, under the leadership of K. Strekalov.

Recommendations

1. The number of participants should not exceed 6 people.

Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrionok

via the central bastion of the NW edge 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrionok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western edge
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.