Ascent Passport

1. North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Kholodnye Perya (3850 m), via the center of the South Face
3. Category III complexity
4. Route type — rock climbing
5. Route height difference — 180 m Route length — 256 m Length of sections:

• Category V complexity — 3 meters Average steepness:
• main part of the route — 75 degrees
• entire route — 55 degrees

The approach is via Mynzhilki cape past the Black rock. Climb up the gully between the moraine and talus slope to the left, towards peak O. Voiny. Continue along the moraine ridges to the south along the trail to the first rocky spur on the left (peak Kholodnye Per'ya). Here, on the rocks, yellow-painted crosses are drawn, giving the name to the overnight stays. Further:

• Turn east behind the rocks from "Kresty",
• Traverse the talus slopes,
• Walk along the Severo-Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier. The final steep ascent before the foot of peak Mayakovsky (talus slope between the ice and rocks) is very prone to rockfall. Behind it, turning left, ascend the talus couloir to the saddle (4.5 hours). From here, climb along the rocky ridge to the west on the right via slabs — to the summit. | 1–30°, 50 m, I | | | | --------------- | --------------- | -------------- | | 2–70°, 5 m, III | 5–60°, 8 м, II | 8–0°, 15 м, I |

Ushbas - Abay Kunanbaev, 45. Traverse of 3 peaks. M. Bryksin, 1958 October 18-22 Group's route

I. Orography

The North-West ridge departs from the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the area of Iiyintau. Three peaks rise above the strongly torn ridge crest:

• 1st Nameless "Treзубец" 4150 m above sea level
• 2nd Nameless "False peak" 4250 m above sea level
• Abay Kunanbaev 4440 m above sea level

Route Description

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent description to the summit of Uchitel 2A cat. sl. from the East. Further path follows the ridge connecting both summits. The first and second gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The remaining ones are overcome head-on. Then a неслож­ный спуск (easy descent) into the pass, movement along the ridge to the very summit of Pioner. The descent from the summit is to the left along the ridge to the Pioner­sky pass (3870 m), from it to the moraine of the Mametova glacier and along the trail to return to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the Alpin­grad site.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope — 2×40 m
• expendable repschnur — 5–6 m

Peak Uchitel'

Via South-Western

Counterforce, 4B,

V. Shapovalov, 1978

Pass by the Southern wall of Pioner and immediately after it, turn left into the couloir. You need to be careful in the couloir - rocks may fall depending on the season. It's better to put on helmets even below Pioner. Ascend to the clearly visible counterforce, reach its lower part via a snowpatch lying to the left. R0–R1: From the ledge, along the outer edge, 35-40 meters to the next ledge. R1–R2: From the ledge, upwards to the right across the slabs. A small wall, about two meters (90°), then it flattens out again. R3–R4: Either onto the wall to the right or into the couloir to the left. Either way, it "squeezes" out onto the ridge. R4–R5: The ridge abuts a wall about three meters high. The wall is not difficult, and there are ledges behind it.

I. Climbing category — rock. 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloalmatinskoye gorge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Uчитель (Teacher), 4030 m, Southwest counterfort. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock route, height difference 400 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 115 m, average steepness — 70°. 6. Number of pitons: rock — 32 (including 4 for creating intermediate belay anchors); ice — not used; bolt pitons — not used; clamps — 2 pieces. 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 (including 3 hours spent on route preparation). 8. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification.

1. Shapovalov Valery Nikolayevich — 1st sports category (leader)
2. Merkeev Sultan Nurtayevich — 2nd sports category (participant)

Bypass the Маметовой rock from the left (in the direction of travel) on a trail, then bypass the massif of Учитель and Пионер peaks from the right and ascend to the Героев Панфиловцев pass along the scree. From the pass, ascend via a couloir that goes left towards the base of a chimney. R0–R1

• Ascend the chimney (15 m, II).
• The chimney is blocked by a chockstone; bypass it on the right and traverse right for a few meters.
• Station on a ledge. R1–R2
• Climb a wall (20 m, II) leftwards up to a ledge with pitons.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — rock
2. Region — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Tuyuk-Su gorge.
3. Peak — Tuyuk-Su, 4218 m, eastern spur of the northern ridge, combined route.
4. Proposed complexity category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m length — 900 m average steepness — 41° length of the wall section of the eastern spur — 370 m

Tuyuksu via North Ridge from the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier, 3B cat.

Route description.

Cross the Tuyuksu glacier in its initial part, move to the right lateral moraine, reach the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier and follow it to the rocky ridge located on the north-north-eastern slope of the summit massif. The ascent begins here. The first rock is bypassed on the right via a snowy-icy couloir with an exit to the saddle. Further, the path goes along easy rocks to a 15-meter rock wall, with piton belay. A new section of easy rocks leads to a 20-meter rock wall. It can be overcome:

• via a narrow cornice on the left side
• on the right via inclined slabs (caution! "live" stones)

Tuyuksu 2B cat. via North-West ridge

Route description.

The route along the north-western ridge to the Tuyuksu peak is clearly visible from the Molodezhny glacier moraine. The approach to it is through the Tuyuksu glacier to the confluence with the Tuyuksu Igly glacier. Along the right lateral moraine of the Tuyuksu glacier, approach the north-western ridge of the peak. The exit to the route is along the middle part of the slope — less prone to falling rocks. The first 50 m are overcome with crampons. The steepness here is about 45°. Further ascent continues with a deviation to the right, bypassing the steep ice front with a large number of crevasses, along a 200-meter ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°.