Partizan ZB category via South-East Ridge
Route description.
The approach to the route is through Tuyuksu or Igly Tuyuksu passes. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Yuzhny Partizan glacier. From here, head to the saddle between the first and second towers of the south-eastern ridge. The path lies along the snowy and icy slopes.
Before reaching the saddle:
- Turn left towards the couloir
- Exit the couloir onto the ridge above the two characteristic rock outcrops
- Control point is located here
Further:
- Traverse left along the not very distinct ledges
- Approach the internal corner, which ends with a 7-meter wall
- Overcome the wall with careful belaying
- Exit onto the slabs
- Traverse the slabs in the direction of the chimney
The exit to the ridge is completed along the chimney. Approximately 30 meters along the ridge, move to its right side, and reach a 15-meter wall via rocks of medium difficulty. The wall is overcome with piton belaying (4 pitons), and beyond the wall, there is an exit to the ridge. Then, along a ledge to the left, exit onto difficult rocks and reach the second tower. The second control point is located here.
Descend into the gap along the sharp ridge, then down steep rocks using a rope. From the gap, a 150-meter sheer wall leads to the pre-summit. The wall is bypassed by descending into a steep icy couloir, followed by an exit to the left into a couloir with scree, which becomes icy with a slope of 35–40° after 30 meters. Crampons are necessary here.
The next stage of the route:
- Along ledges with overcoming low (up to 3 m) walls,
- Rocks are heavily destroyed (be cautious!)
Then, exit onto the ridge. In this section, the rocks are difficult, and belaying is done using pitons (7 pitons). On a rocky outcrop of the ridge, there is the third control point. Movement along the destroyed rocks of the ridge alternates with snowy sections in the direction of the southern summit of Partizan. Careful belaying is necessary.
The ascent to the tower of the southern summit is from the south-eastern side along slabs, turning left and exiting onto a rocky saddle, from where, along an external corner, onto the ridge leading to the southern summit. Descent is via the ascent route.
The ascent to the tower of the northern summit is from the west along the right external corner, which leads to a section of slabs with a small slope. Beyond them:
- ascent along a narrow chimney,
- a jagged crest,
- leading to the northern summit.
Descent is via the ascent route.
Descent from the summit to the saddle between the summits of Ordzhonikidze and Partizan, then along route 2B category of difficulty with an exit to the Igly Tuyuksu glacier. The ascent takes 10–11 hours. First ascent: August 1956, a group of climbers from the Kok Bastau alpine camp led by V. Sochkov.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants: 4–6 people.
- Initial bivouac on the Yuzhny Partizan glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 4:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- expendable cordelette — 20 m
- rock pitons — 12–15 pcs.
- ice pitons — 3–4 pcs.
- hammers — 2 pcs.
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Alpinistskie marshruty. Zailiysky Alatau". Part 1
From Mountain.kz website