Achik-Tash

Mountain range136.67 km²
johnlepikhinJjohnlepikhin
January 30, 2026
4
Route Description: траверс

Traverse of the peaks in the western part of the Zaalai Range, cat. 5B, completed by the team of "Spartak" sports society in 1970.

TRAVERSE OF PEAKS:

  • «5100 m»
  • «5200 m»
  • «5340 m»
  • «5689 m (Egorova V.P.)»
  • «5900 m»
  • «RAZDELNAYA»
  • «LENINA 7134 m»
  • «Lipkin ROCK» Cat. 5B, for the Spartacus Championship of the Central Council of the DSO in 1970.
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Route Description: В гребню

Report on the first ascent of the route category 3B on the peak Yukhin (5130 m) by the eastern ridge, Pamir, Zaalai ridge.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina via the Eastern Ridge.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina (5130 m) via the Eastern Ridge.

Ascent Passport

  1. Pamir. Trans-Alay Range. Peak Yukhina 5130 m. Presumed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent. Nature of the route — rocky. Height difference of the route — 400 m. Route length — 1000 m.
  2. Length of sections: I — 350 m, II — 350 m, III — 300 m.
  3. Average steepness: main part of the route — degrees.
  4. Number of "hooks" left on the route: total — 0;
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Route Description: ЮЗ ребру З гребня

Report on the ascent of the MAI mountaineering club team to Lenin Peak via the Southwest Edge of the West Ridge, first ascent, 5A difficulty level.

Report

On the ascent of the MAI Climbing Club team

to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the Southwest Ridge of the West Crest (first ascent) from August 31 to September 2, 2012 Captain: A. Lebedev, Coach: A. Lebedev Ascent to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the Southwest Ridge of the West Crest (first ascent)

Passport

  1. Region: Trans-Alay Range (Pamir) Valley: Malaya Saukdara, category according to the 2011 classifier — 4.4
  2. Name of the peak: Lenin Peak (7134 m)
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Ascent of Lenin Peak (7134 m) from the north via the spur through Lipkin Mt in 1967 by a Soviet expedition.

LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE NORTH VIA THE SPUR FROM LIPKINA PEAK. Moscow – 1967

II. Preparation and Organization of the Ascent

In the autumn of 1966, the Moscow City Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Association decided to conduct a complex high-altitude expedition to the Pamir using collective travel vouchers. A coaching council was formed, consisting of Honored Master of Sports Ovchinnikov A.G., Master of Sports Bozhukov, and Honored Coach of the RSFSR Radel V.A. The head of the organizational committee was Master of Sports Galkin V.T., under whose leadership the preparations for the expedition were carried out. Training sessions were conducted according to a plan developed by the coaching council, three times a week, at the sports complexes:

  • Bauman Moscow State Technical University (MSTU)
  • Moscow State University (MSU)
  • Tsaritsyno
  • Khimki.
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Route Description: кф. скалы Липкина

Ascent description to the 6100 plateau on the northern slope of the Peak Lenin eastern ridge via Lipkin rock, featuring a detailed trek diary and route description.

PLATEAU 6100 NORTHERN SLOPE OF THE EASTERN RIDGE OF PEAK LENIN

Climbing Description

The ascent route follows the path to Peak Lenin via Lipkin Rock.

Day 1

From the base camp at 3600 m, the path goes through pastures and "Onion Glade" to the foot of "Tent Rock." Then, through a lateral gorge, it follows a trail that leads to a saddle in the ridge named "Travelers' Pass." From "Travelers' Pass," the trail initially descends and then traverses to the right across talus slopes, crosses a canyon, and bypasses a standalone rock on the left. Upon reaching the glacier, a zone of lateral crevasses is encountered. The ice is heavily covered with debris. The path up the glacier towards Lipkin Rock initially follows its middle part and then, bypassing the icefall on the right, moves to the right orographic moraine, which is a chain of black hills of talus material extending from the foot of Lipkin Rock. The glacier in its upper part is closed, requiring travel in ropes. At the moraine near the foot of Lipkin Rock, there is a large area suitable for overnight stays, a common stop for many expeditions heading to Peak Lenin from the north. The height of this location is 4200 m. There is water available, and many areas for tents. The journey from the "Vysochnik" alpine camp to the 4200 m overnight stay took 6 hours. We take a one-hour rest to prepare hot food. We bypass Lipkin Rock on the right and, entering a wide snowy couloir, ascend through the snow, cutting steps, to the ridge of Lipkin Rock, marked in descriptions as 5200 m. The ascent to Lipkin Rock from 4200 m took 2 hours. On the ridge, there are many cleared areas for tents, and on the snowy plateau to the left of the ridge, water can be uncovered under the snow. On a terrace below the ridge, the remains of Lipkin's plane are visible.

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Route Description: СВ гребню

Report on the first ascent of the Universitetskaya ITMO peak via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3A route.

Report

On the first ascent of the route to the summit UNIVERSITET ITMO via the North-Eastern ridge — 3A category of complexity (presumably). By the team of climbers: Inozemtsev, Sokhatsky, Kurzin. For the period June 20, 2019.

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderKurzin Bogdan, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsSokhatsky Alexander 2nd sports rank, Inozemtsev Eduard 1st sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachSuviga Vladimir Ivanovich
1.4OrganizationAsia Outdoor
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1RegionPamir. Trans-Alai range
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Route Description: З гребню

Report on the first ascent by the ITMO team to the summit 4729 via the Western ridge of the North wall, difficulty category 2B, Pamir-Alay, Achik-Tash gorge.

Report on the First Ascent by the ITMO Sports Club Team to the Summit 4729 (Peak ITMO University — new name) via the Western Ridge of the North Wall.

Estimated difficulty 2B, Saint Petersburg, September 2017

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent Area Pamir-Alay, Achik-Tash gorge
  2. Summit 4729
  3. Route
  4. Ascent Class
  5. Height Difference:
  6. Team
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Route Description: В стене с л. Б. Саукдара

Ascent of Lenin Peak via the south-east ridge of the south-eastern wall from Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier, category 5B.

1. Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Zaalai Range (North Pamir). Gorge: Sauksay Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.4
  2. Peak name: Lenin Peak. Route name: along the rib of the southern edge of the southeastern wall from the Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier.
  3. Proposed – 5B category of difficulty.
  4. Route type: snow-ice.
  5. Height difference of the route: 1709 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3911 m.
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Route Description: ПО ЦЕНТРУ СЕВЕРНОЙ СТЕНЫ

Report on the first ascent of the route 4A category of complexity through the center of the North face of the Universiteta ITMO peak by the Ak-Sai Travel team.

On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Universiteta ITMO via the center of the Northern wall, category 4A, by the Ak-Sai Travel team — MPEI alpine club, from 26.08.2019 to 26.08.2019

I. Ascent Passport

№ п.п.1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderMikhail Khomenyuk, 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsBakytjan Nabieva, 2nd sports rank
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Route Description: ЮЗ ребру с л.Малая Саукдара, траверс

Report on the first ascent of the traverse peak 6852 m - Lenin Peak - Razdel'naya peak in 1967 by a group from the Turkestan Military District.

REPORT

on the traverse: Peak 6852 m – Lenin Peak (7134 m) – Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m) with ascent to the southwest edge of Peak 6852 m from Maly Saukdara Glacier by the group of the Turkestan Military District. (July – August 1967) From July 22 to August 9, 1967, a group from the Turkestan Military District was in the area of Lenin Peak. The group completed the traverse: Peak 6852 m – Lenin Peak – Razdelnaya Peak, making the first ascent of Peak 6852 m via the southwest edge from Maly Saukdara Glacier. Team members: leader: Popov V.I.; participants: Artyukhin S.I. – deputy leader, Zapeka V.N.

  • Kondrashov I.V.
  • Ilyinsky E.T.
  • Toporkov A.D.
  • Golodov Yu.F.
  • Putintsev A.V.
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