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Description

The first ascent of an unnamed peak with the goal of naming it "Столетие освобождения Болгарии" (Bulgaria's Liberation Centennial), via the "islands" from the north and the western ridge, approximately category 3B complexity. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk residents to Sofia Glacier, exiting under the northern slopes of peak Столетие освобождения Болгарии, located east of Sofia peak — 4 hours. The route passes through four rocky "islands" on the northern slope of the ridge connecting these two peaks. Crossing the glacier, we approach the I rocky "island". Before it lies a 5-meter-wide bergschrund, which is overcome by descending onto a snow bridge that leads to the rocks. The ascent begins with a 30-meter wall at 70–75°. Climbing is moderately difficult, with piton protection. After the I rocky island, a 30-meter snow-ice slope at 45–50° leads to the II rocky "island". It is climbed to the left, as the rocks on the right are covered in glaze ice. The rocks are moderately difficult, with piton protection. In some places, there is glaze ice that does not hinder progress. The length of the II rocky island is 70 meters. At the midpoint of the island is the I control cairn! Before exiting onto the snow, there are 20 meters of gentle rocks. Then, a 40-meter snow slope at 40–45° leads to the III rocky "island". The third rocky "island" is climbed straight up. Its length is 100 meters. The rocks are easy. After the III rocky "island", there is about 100 meters of a steep snow slope. In the lower part, the slope is 50°, and in the upper part, it is 55°. This snow slope leads under the IV rocky "island".

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Peak 3118 (Ayyuly) Route: via the south ridge Category: 1B (combined) Leader: A. Lyapunov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Irkis valley, north-eastern spur of the Arkasar ridge — Gabulu ridge, Ayyuly tract Section in KMGV — 2.1.

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to Peak 3118 (Ayyuly) as part of the "Third stage of the Cup of NP «Sauk-Pay» — «Irkis-2015»" climbing competition

Ascent Passport

1. Class: rock
2. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Pshysh River valley.
3. Tokmak (3438 m). Via the South slope and South wall
4. Proposed 4A category difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1318 m. Rock part 390 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 40 m. Average steepness of the key part of the route is 80–85°. Overall route steepness is 35–45°. Total route length (rock part) is 1075 m.
6. Pitons left on the route: rock 6 pieces.
7. Team's climbing hours: nine up, five down.
8. Leader: Plotnikov Alexander Alexandrovich, 1st sports category.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus
3. Peak, route: Bolshoi Tkhach Mt. (2368.4) via SW wall counterfort
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B, first ascent
5. Wall height difference: 270 m Route length: 290 m. Average wall slope: 65°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | ITO | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Report on the first ascent of the SW couloir of Mt. Bolshoy Thach (2368.4 m) via the "Bashnya" route, approximately category 3B, completed by M.V. Bogatyrev, A.Yu. Burlev, and Yu.A. Menyayev on February 4, 2008. Table of Contents:

• Ascent Passport
• Maps of the Area
• Brief Characteristics of the Area
• Approach Description
• Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols
• Summary Table of the Route
• Route and Descent Description
• Route Photos

Report on the first ascent of the SW couloir of Mt. Bolshoy Tkhach (2161.0 m) via the "Otkryshka" route, approximately 2A category of difficulty, accomplished by M.V. Bogatyrev, A.Yu. Burlev, and Yu.A. Menyayev on February 6, 2008. Table of Contents

• Ascent Passport
• Maps of the Area
• Brief Characteristics of the Area
• Approach Description
• Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols
• Summary Table of the Route
• Route and Descent Description
• Route Photographs

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Fisht, 2867 m, via the northern slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B
5. Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 1367 m; b) average steepness — 35°; c) length of sections: I — 2400 m, II — 500 m, III — none, IV — none, V — none, VI — none
6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai, up to Marukh pass
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: [гора] Фишт, 2867 m from M. Fishkinsky glacier
4. Expected difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference – 1367 m; b) average steepness – 40°; c) length of sections: I – 1300 m, II – 240 m, III – 220 m, IV – none, V – none, VI – none.
6. Pitons hammered:

Route name — Fisht peak. Number in classifier 62. Cat. grade. 2A*. Leader V. Taranenko. Year of passage 1984. Fisht (2867 m), 2A cat. grade. via SE ridge, rock route. V. Taranenko, 1984. After prolonged snowfalls — snowy (for classification purposes between October 15 and May 15). This route is one of the most aesthetically appealing routes in the area:

• many beautiful views;
• panorama of the Western Caucasus;
• effective angles for photo and video shooting. From the "Fisht" trailhead, follow the marked trail to the base of the wall. Then, up to the left along the Maly Fishtinsky Glacier (avalanches!) to the Fishtinsky Pass (2.5–3 hours). Routes to Fisht peak