Chungur-Dvar Peak
Ascent from the col from Chungur-Bashi along the eastern ridge, category 2A difficulty.
From the col from Chungur-Bashi peak, move left onto the ridge and ascend the rocks to a large ledge. Traverse the ledge for 20 m (belay!) and then ascend left and upwards for 10 m; follow the wall with an inner corner (pitons!) to the next ledge. From here, use a 15-meter inner corner (belay! piton!) to reach the shoulder of the ridge's rocky ascent. Along the ridge to a 5-meter slab and traverse right (belay!) to ascend to the main ridge.
Follow the ridge to where it becomes less steep and then along a narrow crest to reach the summit.
From the col to the summit takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent from the summit follows the category 1B route to Chungur Pass. The further descent route coincides with the ascent route.
Recommendations for Climbers:
I. Number of participants in the group - 2 training units
II. Initial bivouac: upper Kichkinekolye, without overnight stay. When ascending Chungur-Bashi, bivouac at Kichkinokol Pass.
III. Departure time from bivouac - not later than 4–5 am.
- Special equipment for a group of 4:
- main rope — 2×30 m;
- auxiliary cord — 4×5 m;
- rock pitons — 3 pcs.;
- carabiners — 6–7 pcs.;
- rock hammers — 2 pcs.
