Route Description

There are separate descriptions and diagrams for all the peaks included in the traverse (see routes):

• "Chungur-Jar from Chungur Pass" (77)
• "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78)
• "Chungur-bashi via the western ridge" (79)

The description and diagram for "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78) should be read in reverse when traversing. On the saddle to the left, there are large snow cornices!

After ascending to the summit of Chungur-bashi ("Chungur-bashi via the western ridge"), the descent from it towards the saddle to the peak of Kanny-kaya proceeds mostly to the right of the ridge line: along simple broken rocks, ledges, and slabs. The descent to the saddle takes 1.5 hours.

The ascent to the summit of Kanny-kaya is similar in terrain character to the descent from Chungur-bashi to the saddle: moving along broken rocks, bypassing small gendarmes to the right along ledges. If the ledges are covered with snow, the gendarmes are passed "head-on," which will increase the ascent time to the summit by one hour.

In the gaps between the gendarmes, there are snow cornices at the beginning of summer!

From the saddle to the summit: 2.5 hours.

The descent from the summit of Kanny-kaya in a northwest direction initially goes along the rocky part of the ridge, and then along the snowy part. Then, descend to a small depression in this ridge before a new rocky section, which smoothly curves around a small snow cirque. From the col:

• descend into the cirque to the left along the boundary of snow and rocks;
• if the bergschrund of the snow slope is open, descend along the rocks of the ridge until you reach the glacier.

Returning to Chungur Pass via the plateau and snowy slopes of the Talychkhan glacier takes 2 hours.

The entire traverse from Chungur Pass and back takes 8–10 hours.