Northwestern Caucasus
Route Description: По СВ гребню
Report on the first ascent of the 3090 peak (Osman Kasaev Peak) via the north-eastern ridge, including a detailed route description and recommendations.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit 3090 (local name – «peak Osman's Kasaev») via the north-eastern ridge from the Southern Panoramic Pass, category 2A complexity, by the AUSB Uzunkol team from Stavropol on August 16, 2023.
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Mukhin Igor Sergeevich, 2nd sports rank, February 18, 1996 |
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent to the peak of **Osman Kasaev** via the eastern ridge, complexity category 3A, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for climbers.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF PIK 3090 (LOCAL NAME — "PIK OSMANA KASAEVA") VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE, cat. dif. 3A BY THE AUSB Uzunkol TEAM FROM STAVROPOL August 19, 2023
I. Ascent Passport
| №№ | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Olyunin Vladimir Yuryevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Livinsky Sergey Alexandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Kobylyatsky Nikolai Grigoryevich |
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Report on the first ascent to the Panoramny peak via the south-eastern ridge, category 3B difficulty level, by the AUSB Uzunkol team on August 16, 2023.
REPORT
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO PANORAMNY (PANORAMA) PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, BY THE AUSB UZUNKOL TEAM FROM STAVROPOL August 16, 2023
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Kirill Artemovich Klimonov, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Andrey Vladimirovich Dumbrovsky, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Nikolai Grigorievich Kobylyatsky |
| 1.4 | Organization | AUSB Uzunkol |
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Report on the first ascent of Chirinkol peak 3528 m via the South-Eastern ridge from Burevestnik South pass, difficulty category 3A.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Chirikol 3528 m via the South-Eastern ridge from Burvestnik Yuzhny pass according to the route of 3A category of complexity by the AUSB Uzunkol team from Stavropol on 19.08.2023
I. Ascent Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Romakh Dmitry Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Klimonov Kirill Artemovich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Kobylyatsky Nikolai Grigorievich |
| 1.4 | Organization | AUSB Uzunkol |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: ЮЗ ребру
Report on the first ascent of the Southwest Ridge of Dolomit Yuzhny Peak (3719 m) in the Kichkinekol gorge on August 6, 2021, complexity category 4B.
Report
on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhny via the Southwest Edge approximately 4B category of complexity by the team of Voronezh Region August 6, 2021
I. Climbing Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Dmitrienko Evgeny Vladimirovich, MS |
Route Description: З стене
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy via the Western wall (4A cat. dif.) by the Voronezh Region team on August 11, 2021
Report
on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy (proposed) via the Western wall, approximately 4A category of complexity by the team from Voronezh region on August 11, 2021
I. Climbing Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Danilkova Ekaterina Borisovna, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of the participants | Dmitrienko Evgeniy Vladimirovich, MS |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | Torshin Mikhail Viktorovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | VROO "Sports Alpine Federation" |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Report on the first ascent of Category 2B route via the northwestern ridge of Uzunkol peak (3487 m) in the Caucasus.
REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UZUNKOL VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE "SAMARA-PENZA" TEAM, AUGUST 24, 2022
1. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Klimov Sergey Alexandrovich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Strochkov Maxim Sergeevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of Coaches | Erokhov Igor Yurievich, Knyazeva Marina Alexandrovna |
| 1.4 | Organization | SROO "FASO" |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | Uzunkol |
Route Description: через 3 плечо
Ascent to the summit of Kjukjurtljü via the Western shoulder of Elbrus, route category 2B, duration 4 days.
33. Kyukyurtly via the Western shoulder (route category 2B).
The path from the village Terskol to the Western shoulder via the Old Krugozor and the Khotyutau pass is described in route 32.
From the shoulder, turn left, to the west, and descend gently along a long slope through the snowy fields and slopes of the Western spur of Elbrus, and exit below the ascent to the summit of Kyukyurtly.
Climb to the summit along a short, gentle snowy slope. From the shoulder, it takes 1–1.5 hours.
Return via the ascent route.
Duration of the route: 4 days.
Additional equipment:
- 2 ice axes
- 2 pairs of crampons
Route Description: кулуару Ю стены
Traversing the Elbrus massif with an ascent to Kyukyurtly via the South Wall couloir, cat. 4A, 4 days, with a detailed description of the route and necessary equipment.
35. Traverse of Elbrus massif with ascent to Kyukyurtly via South Wall couloir
(I. Evseev's 4A category route). The path from Terskol village (group of 4–6
people) to Khotyutau pass is described in route 32. From Khotyutau pass —
down scree, then along the trail to Ullukam River, cross the river to the
right bank and ascend grassy slopes to the Western ridge adjoining the
South-West walls of Kyukyurtly peak. Along scree, then via a simple but steep
rocky snow-covered counterfort or to the right of it via a couloir (rockfall!)
ascend to the Western ridge. From here, turn right and follow a simple wide
ridge with minor ups and downs to reach beneath the South-West walls of
Route Description: В кф. Ю стены
Traverse of Elbrus massif with an ascent to Kyukyurtly via the Eastern counterfort of the South wall, 5A cat. dif., 6 days, special equipment is required.