Fig. 34

1. Ascent to Peak Ine (3409 m) from the northeast — category 2A difficulty (Fig. 34)

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Dombayskoye valley to the old moraine opposite the Ine glacier — there is a signpost. From the signpost to the right, across the bridge over the Dombay river and to the left of the "ram's foreheads" up the grassy slopes. Further along the scree to the glacier and on it (in teams) to the "red rocks". Then up the moraine to the glacier bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 4–5 hours. From the bivouac, ascent along the glacier to a snowfield with a slope of 35–40° and along it up to the right to a gap in the north-eastern ridge of Peak Ine. From the gap up to the left

Fig. 53

3. Traverse of the Dottakh-kaya — Bu-Ulgen massif (see Fig. 53–56)

From Dombayskaya polyana to the Northern shelter by car. From the Northern shelter, across the river Khokel via a log, to Chotcha polyana - bivouac. From the Northern shelter, 1 hour. From the bivouac, crossing the Chotcha gorge, to the right and further along the snows of avalanche depositions, approach to the first couloir on the slope of the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Through the couloir, exit to the "ram's foreheads" and further ascent to the eastern ridge descending towards the Northern shelter. Without reaching the ridge, traverse left into the cirque of a small glacier. Along the snowy slope of the cirque, diagonally upwards to a rocky outcrop, bypass the outcrop on the left and along a steep snowslope (belay!) - exit to the ridge. Then along the ridge and, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the left via a ledge, - exit to the saddle between the main ridge of Dottakh-kaya and the rocky outcrop. From the saddle, along the main ridge (steep rocks of medium difficulty, belay through outcrops, partly piton!) - exit to the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Further path to the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya is described in the traverse description of Dottakh-kaya.

Fig. 53

1. Traversing the Dottakh-kaya peaks (3670 m) with ascent to the Western summit via the northwestern ridge (cont. fors) — category 4A difficulty (fig. 53)

From Dombay, by car to the Bu-Ulgen plain or on foot through the Chuchkhur pass. From the Bu-Ulgen plain to the confluence of the Dottakh-kaya and Bu-Ulgen rivers and across the snow bridge (fordable at the end of summer) over the Bu-Ulgen River. Then along the Dottakh-kaya River upstream to the base of the northwestern ridge. Further:

• detour around the base of the ridge from the left via the "ram's foreheads",
• ascent via the moraine and a small snowpatch to a deep depression in the ridge — a bivouac site, water. From the Bu-Ulgen plain, 4–4.5 hours. From the bivouac, up to the ridge to the right and along it straight up (or bypassing certain sections) to the first sentinel rock. Ascent to the sentinel rock head-on (belay!), descent from it on the right side via ledges and back onto the ridge. Ascent to the second sentinel rock from the right via a 6-meter chimney (pitons for belay!), then traverse left and exit onto the ridge via slabs (belay!). Further, via a steep slab (60°, belay!) to the first wall. Ascent up the wall via a 20-meter chimney (pitons for belay!), then traverse left 20–25 meters across loose rocks. Then via a ledge up to the right onto the ridge, ascent via slabs to a snowpatch and along it to the left under the second wall, 120 meters high (wall steepness 70 — 75°). Ascent up the wall straight (pitons for belay!), exit onto the pre-summit ridge and along it to the Western summit.

TRAVERSE ROUTE OF THE DOMBAY — ULGEN MASSIF July 1951

Report

On the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif (v. Vostochnaya — 3968 m, v. Glavnaya — 4047 m, v. Zapadnaya — 4038 m) (V. Davydov) 5B category of complexity By the team of the Crimean Republican Club of Alpinists, Climbers, and Ice Climbers "Mountain School 'Category of Difficulty'"

For the period

From August 5, 2023, to August 7, 2023. Semenov M. A. — MS, leader; Vvedenskaya V. V. — 2nd sports category; Alpinclub — Gornoye bezumiye 2023 year.

I. Climbing report

| | 1. General information | |

— Mapunpin loцohodeэus on 6. Aoribay (N) — 3B cat. diff. ASCENT ROUTE TO DOMBAI (S) SUMMIT via DOMBAI Pass 3B cat. diff. Ascent route to Dombai (S) — 3A cat. diff. ASCENT ROUTE TO DOMBAI (S) SUMMIT via DOMBAI Pass 3A cat. diff. Dombai (S) summit, 3585 m Dombai Pass 140 m, 10°, 1 30 m, 40°, 2 40 m, 50°, 3

Fig. 41

2. Ascent to the summit of Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen via the southern ridge with crossing Dombay and Ptysh passes — cat. 2B (see Fig. 40–42)

From Ptysh bivouac, up the moraine of Ptysh glacier (15–20 minutes) and left — towards Dombay pass. Ascend via the couloir (or its right side) and reach the eastern edge of Kruzhevoy glacier. Then:

• Ascend the snowy slope
• Ascend the wide couloir
• Traverse on the right side of the rocky ridge
• Reach Dombay pass — bivouac

Fig. 52

3. Ascent to Maly Dombai-Ulgen peak via the northern ridge — category 4A (Fig. 52)

From Dombai clearing along the trail to the left of Chuchkhur waterfalls to Chuchkhur pass — bivouac. From Dombai clearing — 4–5 hours. From the pass along несложным разрушенным скалам (protection!) to the red rocks. First along the northern ridge, then exit to the rocks of the northeastern ridge and along narrow ledges on the eastern side of the ridge — exit to a wide crevice with a three-meter plug. Through this crevice via the plug — to the first ascent. Ascent to the first ascent:

Fig. 50

1. Ascent to Maly Dombay-Ulgen peak (3800 m) from the west — category 2B difficulty (Fig. 50 and 51, left and center)

From Dombayskaya polyana along the trail, to the right of Chuchkhur waterfalls, to Ptyshskaya nochovka. From Dombayskaya polyana 3–4 hours. From the nochovka to the left upwards along alpine meadows (partially a trail) to the left-bank moraine of Dombaysky glacier, from there to the left to the "ram's foreheads" and through them to the right-bank moraine (icefall possible!). Further upwards along the moraine along the glacier to a gentle green couloir. Through it to the southeast ridge of Maly Dombay and along the large talus to two

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombay-Ulgen Western (4036 m), through the center of the Triangle of the southern wall.
5. Proposed 6B category difficulty, first ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length — 1690 m; length of sections 5–6 category difficulty — 605 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (Triangle South wall) — 84°;