21.02.2012 18824

• R32
• R33
• R34

Report

On the ascent of the team from Kharkiv region to the summit of Erydag NW 3887 m via the Northwest wall. Presumably VI-A category of difficulty. First ascent.

via the Northwest wall. Presumably VI-A category of difficulty. First ascent. Poltavets E. I. — team leader, Timko E. N. Kharkiv 2012

1 Ascent participants

1. Team leader — Poltavets Evgeny Ivanovich. Master of Sports. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Address: 61144, Kharkiv, Akademika Pavlova st. 162A, apt. 118. Tel. +38095-125-33-40. Email poltalp@ukr.net
2. Timko Evgeny Nikolaevich. 1st sports category. Kharkiv. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N.,

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — 2.9 Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — traverse I-st Western Erydag (4020 m) — Main Yaru-dag (4110 m) from Kurush pass (3925 m) 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 920–1010 m average slope — 50–60°, length of sections: R1 — 100, R2 — 150–200, R3 — 60, R4 — 300, R5 — 200, R6 — 100, R7 — 3000–3500 m. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating I.T.O. rock — 0, ice — 0, bolt — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 7 hours

Ascent Passport

1. Combined route 295
2. Climbing area — 2.9a East Caucasus
3. Summit Sel'dyk (3666 m) from the South
4. Difficulty category — 1B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m. Route length — 790 m (Ic.tr. — 690 m, Pc.tr. — 100 m). Average steepness — 30°.
6. Rock pitons — 2, ice — 0, bolted — 0
7. Number of travel hours — 9

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: 2.96 mountains of Dagestan
3. Peak: its height, ascent route, and character:
   • Shalbuzdag East (4060 m), 2nd tower from the south
4. Proposed complexity category: 2B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths:
   • category I — 340 m, category II — 95 m, category III — 70 m, category IV — 10 m.
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — 2.9 Eastern Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Eastern Shambuzdag, 3rd tower (4060 m) from the south
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B No. 48105, May 22, 1979
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 560 m
   • average steepness — 55°–60°
   • length of sections: R1 — 600 m, R2 — 15 m, R3 — 20 m, R4 — 15 m, R5 — 30 m, R6 — 7 m, R7 — 40 m, R8 — 7 m, R9 — 5 m
6. Pitons driven:

1. Climbing category — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — 2.10., Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route, its character — Shalbuzdag East, 4th tower, 4020 m, via the SE buttress.
4. Estimated category complexity — 3A
5. Route description — Height difference 400 m, section length 10 m, average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons used — rock, ice, bolted 6/0, 0/0, 0/0; placed nuts 6/0
7. Number of climbing hours — 4
8. Number of nights — No overnight stay
9. Leader's full name, participants and their qualification — Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, 1st sports category; Mammaev Sulayban Nurmagomedovich, 2nd sports category; Krasnopolsky Yuri Vasilyevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
10. Team coach —

2.9А.43

WESTERN SHALBUZDAG (4105 m) VIA EASTERN RIDGE 3B TO TUR (FIRST ASCENT) ASCENT DETAILS

1. Ascent category: combined
2. Ascent area: 2–9 East Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western Shalbuzdag, approx. 4105 m, from the south to the col and via the Eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 900 m

Ascent Passport

1. Winter ascent class.
2. Region 2.10 mountains of Dagestan, Chekhychay gorge, Shalbuzdag ridge.
3. Shalbuzdag North-Eastern, 3500 m, via the gap in the right bastion of the South wall.
4. 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: route — 230 m, wall — 210 m (from 3270 m to 3480 m), average steepness of the wall — 70°, route length 506 m, wall section 246 m, section lengths:
   • 1 — 250 m
   • 2 — 20 m
   • 3 — 38 m

I. Category of first ascent. 2.2.10. Dagestan Mountains, South Dagestan, Shalbuzdagsky ridge. 3. Shalbuzdag Northwest, 4000 m, via the terrace of the West wall, rock route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, category 3B complexity (first ascent attempt). 5. Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain: 300 m.
• Length of sections:
• 2nd category complexity — 550 m.
• 3rd category complexity — 200 m.
• 4th category complexity — 90 m.