South Eastern Caucasus

Mountain range17,615.76 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the passage of a 6B category route on the northwestern wall of **Erydag** mountain in the Caucasus by a team of Russian climbers in 2002.

1. Climbing Passport

  1. Region: Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychai gorge.
  2. Erydag (NNW), 3887 m, via the center of the right bastion of the NW wall, Voronin Route.
  3. Second ascent. Estimated category 6B.
  4. Rock climbing route.
  5. Route height difference: 1100 m, route length: 2700 m, wall height difference: 950 m, wall section length: 1200 m (excluding traverse along the ledge from R23 to R24), average wall steepness: 75°, average bastion steepness: 80° (from R0 to R22), length of sections with category V difficulty: 405 m, category VI: 540 m, length of sections with artificial aids (ITO): 545 m, with complexity A1: 15 m,
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Description of a winter ascent via a Category III route up the centre of the right bastion on the NW wall of Eridag Peak (NW Caucasus, 3,887 m).

Ascent Passport

  1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
  2. Erydag (NNW), 3887 m, via the center of the right bastion on the NW wall (Voronin route).
  3. Proposed category: 6B in winter, third ascent.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Route height difference: 1127 m. Length of the wall section: 1165 m. Section lengths:
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Report on the ascent of the team from Irkutsk to the summit of Yerydag via the route of 6B category of difficulty to the center of the NW wall bastion.

2010 Russian Mountaineering Championship, High Altitude Category

Report on the ascent of the team from Irkutsk to the NW peak of Erydag, 3887 m, via the center of the NW bastion (S. Voronin, 2001)

Irkutsk, 2010, Ascent Details

  1. Location: Eastern Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay River valley. Classification table section: 2.2.
  2. Peak: Erydag NW, 3887 m, route via the center of the NW bastion (S. Voronin, 2001), route #48b.
  3. Difficulty category: 6B.
  4. Route type: Rock climbing.
  5. Wall height: 1050 m. Route length: 1300 m. Length of sections by difficulty category: V - 405 m, VI - 540 m. Average slope: Bastion - 80°, wall section - 75°, entire route - 60°.
  6. Pitons left on the route: 5 (3 anchor, 2 chock stones). Pitons used: anchor - 134/15, chock stones - 47/13. Drill screws used: stationary - 11/6, removable - 14/8 (mostly in old holes, including 1 for hanging a hammock on the 2nd night), + about 45 points on skyhooks and fiffies.
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Report on the ascent made by the Volgograd region team to the summit of **Erydag** via the **Voronin Route**, rated as category 6B complexity.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2010 HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Erydag (NW) via the center of the NW bastion of the NW wall by the team from Volgograd Region VOLGOGRAD 2010

Ascent Passport

  1. Area: Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay Gorge.
  2. Erydag (NNW), 3887 m, via the center of the right bastion of the NW wall (Voronin route).
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Report on the ascent made by the Dagestan Alpine Federation team via a new 6B category route to the summit of Erydag (3887 m) through the cornices of the central right bastion on the NW wall.

2005 Russian Mountaineering Championship. Technical Ascents Class

Report

On the first ascent by the team of the Dagestan Alpine Federation (combined team of the Southern Regional Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry) on Erydag (NW), 3887 m via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall, category 6B.

Addresses

354003, Krasnodar Krai, Sochi, 151-a Plastunskaya St., Southern Regional Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry, tel.: (8622) 68-03-03, 68-02-02 367015, Republic of Dagestan, Makhachkala, 17 Erliha St., Dagestan Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry Tel./fax: (8722) 67-23-75 Photo of the wall profile from the right, at 3300 m, from K. Dorro's route, February 2000.

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Climbing certificate for the ascent to the summit of Erydag (3887 m) via a 6B category route through the cornices of the right bastion on the NW wall.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
  2. Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the ledges of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall.
  3. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
  4. The route is rock climbing.
  5. Height difference of the route 1167 m, route length 3025 m, wall height difference 1030 m, average wall slope 75°, average bastion slope 80°, length of the wall part of the route (excluding the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) 1175 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 200 m, passed on aid climbing (conditionally 6B cat. diff.) – 700 m, including difficulty A1 – 150 m, A2 – 500 m, A3 – 50 m.
  6. Left on the route:
    • rock pitons — 5
    • bolt pitons (removable) — 7
    • "spit" sleeves (12 mm) — 9
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Ascent to Yerydag peak via the cornices of the central right bastion of the NW wall, 6B cat. dif., route description and passage characteristics.

The area — Caucasus, Dagestan mountains. The peak — Eridag (NW) 3887 m via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall. It is proposed — 6B cat. dif., second ascent. The nature of the route — rock.

Characteristics of the route:

The height difference of the route — 1167 m. The height difference of the wall section — 1030 m. The length of the route — 3025 m. The length of the wall section (excluding the length of the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) — 1175 m. The average steepness of the route — 64°. The average steepness of the wall — 75°. The average steepness of the bastion — 80°. The length of sections of 6 cat. dif. — 700 m, 5 cat. dif. — 200 m.

Left on the route:

Rock hooks — 0, anchor hooks — 3, piton hooks (8 mm) — 1, chock stones — 0. Hooks used on the route:

  • stationary pitons — 10
  • removable pitons — 25 (8 mm). Total protection used — 228, including skyhooks — 143. Number of climbing hours — 51, days — 4. Number of nights — 3. Team leader — Klenov Alexander Valerievich, HMS.
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Report on completing a mountaineering route of 6B category of complexity to the summit of Erydag via the cornices of the central part of the NW wall.

Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism

Report

on the passage of the climbing route category 6B on v. Erydag "through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall", made within the framework of the Russian Championship in Alpinism high-altitude and technical class (fifth passage of the route)

Passport of Ascent

  1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table 2013:
  2. Caucasus. 2.10. Mountains of Dagestan (from v. Shaviklade to v. Bazardyuzyu)
  3. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: v. Erydag, height of the summit 3887, name of the route – through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall (route No. 48g of section 2.10. according to the classification table 2013).
  4. Category of complexity 6B.
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Report on the ascent of the team from the Arkhangelsk region and Tatarstan to the summit of Erydag NW through the cornices of the right bastion of the NW wall via the Shanovozov's route, category 6B difficulty.

Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation

of Arkhangelsk Region

Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical and High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent of the team from Arkhangelsk Region and Tatarstan Republic to the summit of Erydag Northwest, 3887 m, via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall, following Shanovazov's route, 2005, category 6B Leader: Dmitry A. Rybalchenko Participants:

  • Mikhail A. Veshchagin
  • Rasim G. Kashapov
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Report on the first ascent by the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Erydag via the inner corners of the right bastion of the NW wall in January-February 2010.

Russian Mountaineering Championship. First Ascent Category. Winter 2010

Report

on the first ascent by the Saint Petersburg team to Erydag (NW) 3877 m, via the inner corners of the right bastion on the NW wall. January–February 2010

Ascent Passport

  1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay valley
  2. Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the inner corners of the right bastion on the NW wall
  3. Complexity category: Proposed 6B category, first ascent
  4. Route type: rock
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