South Eastern Caucasus

Mountain range17,615.76 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of a new 6B category route through the left part of the northern wall of Yerydag peak in Dagestan, climbed by a team of mountaineers in February 2010.

Page 5. Ascent log details

  1. Region — Dagestan mountains, Chekhychai gorge.
  2. V. Erydag 3925 m via the left part of the NW wall.
  3. Difficulty category 6B, first ascent.
  4. Route type — rock.
  5. Wall section height difference 1000 m. Total length 1460 m,
    • category 5 — 210 m,
    • category 6 — 710 m.
    • average steepness 69°.
    • artificial aids difficulty: A-1 — 260 m, A-2 — 450 m.
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Description of a route of the 6th category of difficulty to the summit of Yarydag (4020 m) via the center of the northwestern wall in the Eastern Caucasus, climbed in 1982 by a group of climbers led by Vladimir Stadnik.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — Rock
  2. Ascent region — Eastern Caucasus
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Yarydag (I western), 4020, via the center of the NW wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Height difference — 1000 m
    • Length of sections: III — 40 m, IV — 230 m, V — 455 m, VI — 405 m.
    • Average steepness — 85°
  6. Pitons hammered:
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Climbing permit for the ascent to ErnDag summit via the NW wall, route category 6A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Category of wall ascents.
  2. 2.10. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychai gorge.
  3. Erydag, 3925 m, point 31–32, Mikhailov's route, 1982, via the right part of the NW wall, rock.
  4. 6A category of difficulty, " беспрохождение".
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 880 m, wall length 960 m, average steepness 70°, total length of the wall section 1125 m, length of sections: 2 category of difficulty — 45 m, 3 category of difficulty — 120 m, 4 category of difficulty — 130 m, 5 category of difficulty — 770 m, 6 category of difficulty — 60 m, including 20 m with A3 climbing; artificial support points: A1 — 25 m, A2 — 15 m, total length with artificial support points: 60 m; on sections: 5 category of difficulty — 25 m, 6 category of difficulty — 35 m.
  6. Used: 122/29 chocks, 118/9 rock pitons, 10/3 bolt pitons. Of these, 4 previously hammered rock pitons were used and not removed, 2 own pitons were left on the route, 10 previously hammered bolt pitons were used.
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Ascent of Jarydag peak (4020 m) via the centre of the North-West wall, 6B difficulty category, Eastern Caucasus, 1982.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock.
  2. Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, North-Eastern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, Usukhchai gorge.
  3. Peak Yarydag (I-Western), 4020 m, via the center of the North-West wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m. route length — 1120 m. length of sections 5–6 difficulty category — 960 m. average steepness of the route (3070–4020) — 81–82°.
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### Route Passport and Description Category 6A complexity route to the summit of Yrydag via the right part of the northwest wall, including a technical photograph and tactical actions of the team.

#446(2)

Ascent Passport

  1. Class of technical ascents.
  2. 2.10. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhy-Chai gorge.
  3. Erydag, 3925 m, point R31–R32, Mikhailov's route 1982 along the right part of NW wall, rocky.
  4. 6A category of complexity, 5th ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference - 900 m, route length - 1300 m, wall section height difference - 880 m, wall section length - 1130 m, average steepness of the wall section - 75 °, length of sections with I category of complexity - 150 m, II - 50 m, III - 85 m, IV - 135 m, V - 785 m, VI - 95 m; passed using ITC - 92 m, including A1 - 7 m, A2 - 75 m, A3 - 10 m.
  6. Used: 147/60 chocks, 100/4 rock pitons, 12/5 pitons on drilled holes. Of these - 3 previously hammered pitons were used (not removed), 2 rock pitons were left, 10 previously hammered pitons on drilled holes were used, 2 were hammered.
  7. Team's travel hours - 42.5, including 11.5 hours of preliminary evening preparation, 5 travel days.
  8. Overnights: 1st - in the assault camp (2800 m) after preliminary preparation, 2nd (3320 m) - two sitting, one in a hammock, 3rd (3500 m) - three semi-reclining on a ledge, 4th (3700 m) - on a scree ledge, two sitting, one in a hammock.
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Report on the first ascent of the route along the Northern edge of the North-West wall of Eridag peak by the Mountaineering club "Mauntex" team in 2001.

XIX Open Russian Alpinism Championship, Winter Class of Mountaineering

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Erydag via the North edge of the North-West wall by the team of Mountaineering Club "Mauntex", St. Petersburg

Sheet 1, page 2

General photo of the summit (February 13, 2001)

Hand-drawn route profile

Summit 3925 m M 1:5000 Bivouac 5 3780 m

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Report on the first ascent of the route of category 6B complexity via the northwestern wall of the Eridag peak (3925 m) in Dagestan, made by the team of the Odessa alpclub in 2011.

Ascent Report

of the Odessa Alpine Club team to the summit of Erydag (3925 m) via the "mirror" of the left part of the Northwest wall (first ascent). EAAC Alpine Championship. Rock climbing category. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, 2011.

Ascent Passport

  1. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, 2.10
  2. p. Erydag, 3925 m, via the "mirror" of the left part of the NW wall
  3. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Route elevation gain: 955 m (by GPS) Route length: 1800 m.
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Report on the first ascent of the left part of the West Face of v. Yarydag Main, made by the "Donbass" alpine club team on November 4-6, 1980, with a detailed description of the route.

Minutes

of the analysis of the first ascent via the left part of the West wall of v. Yarydag Glavnaya, made by the group of the alpinist club "Donbass", consisting of:

    1. Ruchka V.Ya. — leader
    1. Sedristy S.I. — member
    1. Lapchenko V.F. — member
    1. Reshetnyak V.A. — member November 4–6, 1980. Attendees:
  • B.G. Sivtsov — Master of Sports of the USSR, supervisor, head of the alpinist club "Donbass" gathering.
  • A.T. Siryachenko — Master of Sports of the USSR, head of the rescue team.
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Ascent certificate for Yarndag Main Peak (4150 m) via the left part of the North-West wall, complexity category 5A.

Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent Class

  • rock climbing.
  1. Ascent Region
  • Eastern Caucasus, YarnDagohiy ridge.
  1. Peak, its height, ascent route — YarnDag Main 4150 m via the left part of the North-West wall.
  2. Category of difficulty
  • 5A.
  1. Route characteristics:
  • section length — new 5 km. tr. 44 I m. Height difference — 930 m. Average steepness 70°.
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Ascent to the summit of YERBLAG (4100 m) via the NW wall, grade 5B, climbed in 1985 by a team of climbers led by F. Mitekhin.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Ascent category
    • rock
  2. Ascent region
    • Eastern Caucasus
  3. Peak Erydag Main 4100 m via bastions of NW wall
  4. Proposed category of difficulty 5B (Second ascent)
  5. Height difference
    • 1200 m Length
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