South Eastern Caucasus

Description of the traverse of Shah-Dag peak with ascent via the eastern counterfort, accomplished by a team of climbers in 1966, with route details and technical specifics.

DESCRIPTION The route of traversing the Shah-Dag peak massif from east to southwest with ascent via the eastern counterfort, accomplished by a team of climbers from the Azerbaijan Council "DINAMO" during an expedition from October 30 to November 10, 1966. The Shah-Dag peak is located in the Lateral Ridge of the Eastern Caucasus within the territory of the Azerbaijan SSR and has an elevation of 4250 m (other sources indicate 4255 m). The main massif of the peak drops steeply to the south and southwest towards the wide left-bank terrace of the Shahnabad River (towards "Shah-Eylag") with steep walls, the lower part of which is a 400-600 m monolithic cliff. The upper part of the walls has a stepped structure, composed of individual 20-40 m monolithic blocks dissected by narrow couloirs and crevices, and merges into the massive ice-snow dome of the peak, with individual heavily destroyed ridges and rock ridges cutting into it. The slopes of the dome have a considerable steepness of 40-45° in the lower part and, gradually becoming less steep towards the top, form a snow-covered summit plateau of significant extent. The summit point is closer to the southern part of the plateau, at the beginning of the rocky ridge extending in the direction of the southern wall. To the east, the summit dome also drops with monolithic rocky cliffs, gradually becoming less steep in the northern part and transitioning into heavily destroyed, scree-covered eastern slopes of the ridge extending from the peak to the northeast. From the southeastern part of this slope, four parallel ridge-spurs of cuesta-like form extend eastward, with slopes dropping steeply to the south and significantly more gently to the north. The highest, southernmost spur, forms the southeastern continuation of the southern wall of the massif with its cliffs. The northern spur is the longest and divides into two branches, sharply turning to the north and south.

First ascent via the SW wall of Shalbuzdag Central 4142 m, cat. 5B, in winter 1998.

Ascent Passport Class of winter ascents. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge. Shalbuzdag Central, 4142 m, via the center of the SW wall, through the cornice, rock route. 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 48 Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 280 m, wall — 150 m (from 3860 m to 4010 m), average steepness of the route — 53°, wall — 77°. Route length — 575 m, wall — 180 m. Section lengths: 2 – 100 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 90 m, 5 – 97 m, including 24 m on artificial climbing holds (ITCH), 6 – 38 m (on ITCH); total climbing on ITCH — 62 m, with difficulty: A1 — 8 m, A2 — 36 m, A3 — 18 m. Equipment used on the route: rock pitons 34/18 including 7 at belay stations chocks 57/40

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Shalbuzdag Main (4142 m) via the south wall, difficulty category 4A, Eastern Caucasus.

I. ASCENT REPORT (2nd ascent) Ascent class — rock climbing Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, northern spurs of the Main Caucasian Range Peak — Shalbuzdag Main, 4142 m, via the south face Proposed difficulty category — 4A Height difference — 300 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 65 m, average steepness — 63° Rock pitons hammered in — 9, chocks placed — 26, runner protection loops hung — 8 Number of moving hours — 8 Korenn A.V. 2nd sports category, leader Konovalov Yu.V. 2nd sports category

Description of the 3B category complexity ascent route via the southwest counterforce to the summit of Central Shalbuzdag (4142 m) in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class - rock climbing Ascent area - 2.9 Eastern Caucasus Peak, its height, and ascent route - Central Shalduzdag (4142 m) via the southwest counterfort Proposed difficulty category - 3B, protocol No. 481 dated 22.08.1979 Route characteristics: elevation gain - 642 m average steepness - 50–55°, section lengths: R1–R12, R2–R3, R3–R15, R4–R2, R5–R25, R6–R30, R7–R7, R8–R3, R9–R30, R10–R8, R11–R5, R12–R80, R13–R60 Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating I.T.O. rock - 10, ice - 0, bolt - 0 Number of travel hours - 8 hours

Description of a 3A category complexity mountain route to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4142 m) via the Western Ridge in the Eastern Caucasus.

I. The route is combined East Caucasus 2.9. Mt. Shalbuzdag (4142) via the Western ridge. Proposed category of difficulty 3A. Route characteristics a. Height difference: 750 m b. Average steepness of main sections: 40° c. Length: 1340 m. (I category — 580 m; II category — 560 m; III category — 120 m; IV category — 80 m) Pitons driven: rock: 9

Ascent to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4122 m) via the South-East Wall, category of difficulty 2B, description of the route, its characteristics and trip details.

Climbing type: rock climbing Climbing area: #2.9 (Eastern Caucasus) Peak, its height, and climbing route: Shalbuzdag 4142 m via the southeast wall Proposed difficulty category: 2B Route description: Height difference 500 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections with I difficulty category — 200 m, II category — 330 m, III category — 190 m, IV category — 20 m. Pitons hammered (for belaying): rock: 15 ice: 0 bolt: 0 Number of walking hours: 8

Ascent to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4150 m) via the Eastern couloir, category 1B difficulty, in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport Ascent class Ascent area Peak, its height and ascent route Proposed difficulty category Route characteristics: Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock, ice, bolted Number of travel hours Number of overnight stays and their characteristics Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification

First ascent of Shalbuzdag North-West (4000 m) via the Western wall terrace, category 3B difficulty level, in Dagestan.

I. Category of first ascent. 2.2.10. Dagestan Mountains, South Dagestan, Shalbuzdagsky ridge. Shalbuzdag Northwest, 4000 m, via the terrace of the West wall, rock route. Proposed: first ascent, category 3B complexity (first ascent attempt). Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 300 m. Length of sections: 2nd category complexity — 550 m. 3rd category complexity — 200 m. 4th category complexity — 90 m.

First ascent of Shalbuzdag Northeast Peak (3500 m) via the right bastion gully on the south face, March 3-4, 1998, category 5A.

Ascent Passport Winter ascent class. Region 2.10 mountains of Dagestan, Chekhychay gorge, Shalbuzdag ridge. Shalbuzdag North-Eastern, 3500 m, via the gap in the right bastion of the South wall. 5A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route characteristics: Height difference: route — 230 m, wall — 210 m (from 3270 m to 3480 m), average steepness of the wall — 70°, route length 506 m, wall section 246 m, section lengths: 1 — 250 m 2 — 20 m 3 — 38 m

Ascent of Shalbuzdag West (4105 m) via East Ridge, first ascent, grade 2.9a.

2.9А.43 WESTERN SHALBUZDAG (4105 m) VIA EASTERN RIDGE 3B TO TUR (FIRST ASCENT) ASCENT DETAILS Ascent category: combined Ascent area: 2–9 East Caucasus Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western Shalbuzdag, approx. 4105 m, from the south to the col and via the Eastern ridge Proposed difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics: elevation gain: 900 m