South Eastern Caucasus
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены через зеркало
Description of a Category 5B route to the summit of Yarydag in the Eastern Caucasus via the northwest wall.
Passport
- Rock climbing category.
- Eastern Caucasus.
- Yaridag peak via the left part of the northwest wall through the "mirror", category 5B.
- Fifth ascent.
- Height difference - 1180 m.
- Length - 1205 m. Length of sections R1–R6 category - 994 m. Average slope of the route –78° (2745–3925), including R6 category –80° (3056–3146); 90° (3320–3500).
- Pitons driven: Rock 82/20, bolted 6/4, placed elements 102/40.
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены через зеркало
Ascent record of Brydag peak (3925 m) via the Northwest wall, category 5B, climbed by a team led by Polyansky V.V. in 1985.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent type: rock climbing
- Ascent area: Eastern Caucasus, Kusarчай valley
- Ascent object: Yerydag peak 3925 m via the left part of the northwest wall through the "mirror" ("S. Efimov's route")
- Complexity category: 5B ("classified route")
- Height difference: 985 m distance: 1310 m distance of sections with 5-6 complexity categories: 890 m average steepness of the route: 80°, including 6th category: 85° (3570–3595); 85–95° (3360–3480); 90° (3640–3780); 90–95° (3005–3065, 3120–3145, 3290–3315)
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены через зеркало
A description of the passage of a category 6B route up the Northwest Wall of **Erydag** in the Caucasus in 1996.
Ascent Logbook
- Technical Climb Category.
- Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay Valley.
- Erydag, 3925 m, point 31–32, S. Efimov's route 1981, via the left part of the NW wall through "Zerkalo", rock climb.
- 6A category difficulty, 3rd ascent.
- Route Characteristics: route elevation gain 1065 m, wall elevation gain 940 m (from 2860 to 3800 m), average wall slope 70°, route length 2400 m, wall section length 1100 m (sections R3–R19 and R20–R60 on UIAA rock scale), section lengths: 1 — 1075 m, 2 — 295 m, 3 — 65 m, 4 — 170 m, 5 — 610 m, including 90 m on artificial aids (AID), 6 — 185 m, including 120 m on AID, total AID climbing — 210 m, including 25 m on sky-hook, AID climbing difficulty: A1–55 m, A2–95 m, A3–60 m.
- Equipment used: 216/99 chocks, 114/44 rock screws, 53/23 bolt hangers, 3 rock features. Of these, previously placed chocks not removed — 2 pcs, previously driven rock screws not extracted — 8 pcs, previously driven bolt hangers — 24 pcs, previously drilled bolt holes for sky-hooks — 10 pcs. Left on the route: chocks — 2 pcs, rock screws — 3 pcs, bolt hanger holes — 29 pcs.
- Team travel days — 3, hours — 37.5, including 4 hours of evening preparation.
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены через зеркало
Ascent documentation for the summit via S. Efimov's route, category VI complexity, featuring a detailed description and photographs.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent area: Dagestan Mountains
- Name of the peak: Erydag (3950)
- Route name: via the left part of NW wall through the "mirror" (S. Efimov's route)
- Category of difficulty: 6A
- Route type: rock
- Height difference: 1254
Wall section height: 1167 m. Route length: 2212 m. Section lengths: V category of difficulty — 200 m, VI category of difficulty — 762 m. Average steepness:
- wall section — 78°
- entire route — 45°
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены через зеркало
First ascent of the NW wall of Erydag (3825 m) in winter, cat. 6B, rock, 1952 m, 1125 m height difference, 15 days on the route.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, 2.10.44a.
- Erydag, 3825 m, via the left part of the NW wall.
- Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first winter ascent.
- Route type: rock climbing.
- Route height difference: 1125 m. Route length: 1952 m. Section lengths:
- 5th category of difficulty — 495 m
- 6A category of difficulty — 275 m
- 6B category of difficulty — 212 m
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Ascent to the summit of Erydag (3925 m) via 6B category route on the left part of NW wall, climbed by a team from Yekaterinburg in 2004.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, 2.10
- Erydag 3925 m, via the left part of the NW wall, G. Shchedrin's route, 81
- 6A category of difficulty
- Route type: rock
- Route height difference: 960 m
Route length: 1280 m
Length of sections:
- 5th category of difficulty – 590 m
- 6th category of difficulty – 170 m
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Report on the first ascent of the route through the center of the left part of the NW wall of Erydag in 1981 with a detailed description of the tactics and passage of the route.
Tactical Actions of the Team
The team's tactical actions were based on:
- available information about the routes (reports, photos, etc.);
- ensuring safety;
- experience in wall climbing. The Leningrad team has been gathering information about the Erydag massif since 1980. Therefore, based on the available materials, observations of the wall during previous visits to the area, and experience climbing on this wall, a tactical plan for the ascent was developed (see sheet 6), which was fully executed during the ascent.
- On August 3, 1987, at 5:00, the team, after preliminary processing of the first two ropes the day before, started on the route. Tsaruk works first. The other participants move along the fixed ropes.
- In a day, 16 ropes were passed and one processed.
- Overnight stay — comfortable, lying down, in a grotto (point 8), as planned according to the tactical plan.
- On August 4, 1987, they started work at 7:00. Pasikhin works first.
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Ascent to the Yarbdag summit via the center of the left part of the northwestern wall, 6th cat. diff., 1,220 m, made by the team of Len City Sports Committee in 1985.
ASCENT RECORD
- Ascent category — rock climbing.
- Region — Caucasus, from the Pereval Krepostovyi to the Tfan summit.
- Ascent route — V. YARYDAG (1st Western, 4020 m) via the center of the left part of the northwest wall.
- First ascent, 6B (approximate).
- Route characteristics (wall section):
- total length — 1220 m
- length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 865 m (6th category — 470 m, 5th category — 435 m)
- average steepness — 78°
- height difference — 1070 m.
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Ascent to the summit Yrydag via the 1st western route up the center of the left part of the NW wall, 5B cat. of difficulty, 1120 m of height difference, 57 hours of climbing time.
I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. CAUCASUS, Yaridag massif, Mt Shchedrina 3. Mt Yaridag I-western, 4020 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall. 4. Route category 6B (according to the classification table – 5B category) 5. Route characteristics: — height difference: 1120 m — length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 939 m — average steepness: 68° 6. Pitons hammered: — for belaying: 251
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Documentation of a Category 5B route ascent to the summit of ErnDag (3925 m) in the Eastern Caucasus by a team from the RSFSR State Committee for Sports in 1987.
Passport
I. Rock climbing category 2. Eastern Caucasus 3. Mt. Erydag, 3925 m via the left part of the NW wall 4. Category 5B complexity 5. Elevation gain 1050 m, length — 1270 m Length of sections R0–R6 cat. complexity — 870 m. Average steepness — 69°. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock 117/20, bolted 0/0, chocks 119/24 7. Team's walking hours: 31 and days — 3