Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Ascent area — Igizak area, Gissar ridge.
3. Khamsoya Central peak (3640 m) via the western edge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, length of sections with 3–4 difficulty category — 160 m, average steepness — 65°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 4

Description of the First Ascent to the Festivalnaya Peak via the North Face

The Festivlnaya peak is located in the upper reaches of the Mama River, in the southern spur of the Hissar Range - south of the Proni Siam and South Siam peaks. This spur stretches from north to south and sharply turns east near the Festivlnaya peak. There are two Festivlnaya peaks:

• Eastern
• Western (main, height 4350 m), which are elevations on a massive ridge stretching in a latitudinal direction. A route along the ridge from east to west was previously traversed and is rated as a 4A category route. The northern slopes of the peak are steep, with snow-covered rocks and steep snow and ice couloirs in many places. A significant snow and ice couloir descends from the saddle between the Eastern and Western peaks. The rocks on the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the couloir are heavily destroyed, and stones are constantly falling from there. To the right of the couloir, there are two counterforts separated by a snowy slope, and ascent routes to the peak are possible via both.

1. Class of ascent — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Festivalnaya, 4350 m via the Left northern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a/. Height difference — 400 m; b/. Length of sections with 4A category difficulty – 145 m; c/. Length of sections with 3B category difficulty – 370 m; d/. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Number of pitons driven:

Protocol № 052.788 Climbing category — Visual. Climbing area — Ugizakov area. Peak, its height and ascent route — Ular, 3700 m, via the counterfort of the southern wall. Proposed difficulty category — 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, average steepness — 30°, length of sections: 1. 110 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Ular, 4000 m, via the southern counterfort. S. wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a) Height difference — 250 m. b) Length of sections with 4A difficulty category – 50 m, 3rd category – 200 m. c) Average steepness — 60°.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent to the peak ULAR from the Ular glacier via the NW ridge — cat. III

The ascent to the peak is made from the "Zelenaya polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivachnaya. From the camp, one should go upstream along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsli, Ular, Khyrс, Kulay Dzovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, which is crossed to the left in the direction of the Ular massif (its NW ridge), leaving the Vorob'inyi pass to the right. The ascent route to the NW ridge goes along the rib to the left of the third couloir (counting from the bottom) from the Ular glacier plateau. The couloir is steep and narrow and leads to the saddle of the NW ridge. Start the ascent via this couloir. Approaching the bergschrund, leave the steep snowy couloir leading to the gap in the NW ridge to the right (hereinafter referred to as the gap between the 1st and 2nd jandarmes), cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, or if the bridge is absent, descend into the crevasse.

Climbing Passport. 5.2.110 Climbing Class: Rock (Combined) Climbing Area: Igizakov area (5.2.) Peak, its height, and climbing route: "Ular", 3900 m via the Northwest Ridge, cat. dif. "Ular" Estimated Difficulty Category: 3A Route Characteristics: Height difference: 300 m Average steepness: 50° Section lengths: 2–150 m; II–100 m; III–240 m; Pitons driven:

Ascent to the Ular summit from Vorobьиный Pass — Cat. II

The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should go up the stream flowing from the cirque of the Khamsai, Ular, Khyr's, and Kulay Ljovanon peaks, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular plateau, from which you can reach Vorobьиный Pass. From the pass, ascend left up the scree, and then via easy broken rocks. Further, move along the broken ridge with simultaneous belay to the gap. Descent to the saddle in the gap is organized with a 15-meter rope. From the saddle, movement continues along the ridge with alternating belay, mainly through outcroppings. A sharp 10-meter rock ridge leads to the I gendarme. Bypass I and subsequent II gendarmes on the left via ledges, and ascend to a grassy area. The further ascent goes along the grassy slope of the ridge on the right part, and via heavily broken rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones. Belay is simultaneous. The descent from the summit is done via the Cat. 1B route down the couloir to the Ular glacier. When descending the snowfield, go right, as there is a bergschrund at the bottom. Then, from the glacier, descend along the right-bank moraine until you reach the trail, and down the valley to "Zelyonaya Polyana".

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants — 6–8 people
2. Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"

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Ascent to Ular Peak

from Ular Glacier via couloir — Category 1B difficulty The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below Bivachnaya Peak. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque formed by the peaks:

• Khamsdi
• Ulara
• Khyrsa
• Kulay Dzhovanon upwards to the old lateral moraine of Ular Glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular Glacier plateau, which is crossed leftwards towards the Ular massif, leaving Vorob'inyi Pass on the right.

ASCENT DOCUMENT (SECOND ASCENT)

1. ASCENT CLASS — TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT REGION — Gissar Ridge, Sangalta area
3. ASCENT ROUTE — Peak Tu 3640 m via SE edge
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Length 1200 m, height difference 850 m, average steepness 57°. Length of sections P.TR. – 20 m, Ш.TR. – 220 m, 1U – 450 m, U – 500 m. Steepness 83°. Number of driven pitons: for rock belay — 78, wooden wedges — 3.
6. MOVING TIME — 13 hours