Ascent to the Ular summit from Vorobьиный Pass — Cat. II
The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should go up the stream flowing from the cirque of the Khamsai, Ular, Khyr's, and Kulay Ljovanon peaks, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular plateau, from which you can reach Vorobьиный Pass.
From the pass, ascend left up the scree, and then via easy broken rocks. Further, move along the broken ridge with simultaneous belay to the gap. Descent to the saddle in the gap is organized with a 15-meter rope.
From the saddle, movement continues along the ridge with alternating belay, mainly through outcroppings. A sharp 10-meter rock ridge leads to the I gendarme. Bypass I and subsequent II gendarmes on the left via ledges, and ascend to a grassy area.
The further ascent goes along the grassy slope of the ridge on the right part, and via heavily broken rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones. Belay is simultaneous.
The descent from the summit is done via the Cat. 1B route down the couloir to the Ular glacier. When descending the snowfield, go right, as there is a bergschrund at the bottom. Then, from the glacier, descend along the right-bank moraine until you reach the trail, and down the valley to "Zelyonaya Polyana".
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants — 6–8 people
- Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"
- Departure time — no later than 6 am
- Equipment for a group of 6 people: rock pitons — 4 pcs., hammer — 1 pc., carabiners — 3 pcs., 5-meter cordelette, 3x30-meter main ropes.
Time Estimate
- "Zelyonaya Polyana" – Vorobьиный Pass — 2.5 hours
- Vorobьиный Pass – summit — 2.5 hours
- Descent from the summit to "Zelyonaya Polyana" — 2 hours Total: 7 hours.
Compiled by: Sogrin