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Ascent to Ular Peak
from Ular Glacier via couloir — Category 1B difficulty
The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below Bivachnaya Peak. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque formed by the peaks:
- Khamsdi
- Ulara
- Khyrsa
- Kulay Dzhovanon
upwards to the old lateral moraine of Ular Glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular Glacier plateau, which is crossed leftwards towards the Ular massif, leaving Vorob'inyi Pass on the right.
The ascent route follows a snowy couloir descending from Ular Peak.
On the left as you ascend:
- As you ascend, there is a bergschrund on the right at the bottom of the couloir, so the ascent is made on the left via the snowfield.
- Leave the rocky outcrop in the couloir on your right.
Slope characteristics:
- The slope gradient is 30°. Simultaneous belay.
- Further on, the slope becomes steeper (40–50°). Alternate belay.
Upon reaching the ridge, depending on the snow conditions during the season, a short snow wall may be encountered, which should be overcome with thorough belaying.
Move along the ridge leftwards towards the summit via easy rocks.
The descent from the summit is made via the ascent route to Ular Glacier. Then:
- Across the glacier
- Along the right-bank moraine until you reach the trail
- Down the valley to "Zelyonaya Polyana".
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants — 10 people
- Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"
- Departure time — no later than 6:00
- Equipment for a group of 10: main ropes 5×30 m.
Time Calculation
- "Zelyonaya Polyana" — Ular Glacier plateau — 2 hours
- Ular Glacier plateau — summit — 2 hours
- Descent from the summit to "Zelyonaya Polyana" — 2 hours Total — 6 hours
