Kumbel

South of the junction peak of Jalan-Kanysh in the Kyzyk-Alay ridge, between the Chugam and Kurgan passes, stands a small simple rocky peak Kumbel with a height of 4180 m, with gentle tall scree slopes at its foot. Only one route has been laid to the summit — on February 16, 1987, a group consisting of V. Suviga, Yu. Gorbunov, S. Ovcharenko, and A. Studenin ascended to the summit of Kumbel via the southern slope. Ascents via the Eastern and Western ridges and from the north to the summit have not been made.

2. Kumbel via the southern slope of the Western ridge

The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 6, 8, 9). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. From the "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp (group of 2–6 people), cross the Kurgan river by bridge and ascend along the road on the left side of the Kurgan gorge. Pass through the juniper forest of the green cape, then ford the stream of the first lateral cirque of the Northern Kyzyk-Alay ridge, then — the southern scree slopes of the peak Burevestnik Kyzyk-Alaysky. Further along the pack trail, ford the stream of the second lateral cirque, formed by the ridges of the peaks Burevestnik, Kumbel, and the Northern Kyzyk-Alay ridge, and approach the scree slopes leading to the Kurgan pass. From the alpine camp — 3–4 hours.

PASSPORT

1. Rock.
2. Pamir-Alay, Kirgiz-Ata gorge, 4180.
3. Peak XX Congress of Komsomol via the counterfort of the South slope, 4200.
4. Presumed Category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference – 150 m, length – 280 m.
6. Route steepness – 50°. Pitons driven: Rock: 10

34. Kirgizata Vostochnaya via the North Ridge. The route is combined, cat. 2A (fig. 5, 6, 40, 41, 43). Length — 1000 m, ascent — 450 m, time — 4–5 hours. The path from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake under the northwestern slopes of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, move up-right across the moraine, then cross the Vostochny Kirgizata Glacier and approach the right side of the Eastern buttress of the North Ridge of Kirgizata Vostochnaya peak. From the glacier, ascend the ice-snow slope to the Eastern buttress. Along the snowy, scree-covered, wide, and gently sloping Eastern buttress, rise to the lower shoulder of the North Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow the easy, broken rocks and scree, overcoming numerous simple short walls and low seracs (with protection) along the gently sloping 300–400-meter North Ridge to the foot. Along simple sections with short walls of medium difficulty, and steep 40–50° rocks of the ascent, perform a 200–250-meter climb (pitons protection) to the upper shoulder. From the shoulder, traverse 150–200 meters along the simple rocks of the North Ridge, bypassing a serac on the left (protection), approach the base of the North serac's tower, and ascend a simple 10–12-meter wall (protection) to the serac. From the serac, descend 10 meters using a sport descent down a simple wall, and along the scree-covered, snowy 200–250-meter North Ridge, approach the rocky tower of the summit. Ascend an 8–12-meter simple wall (“live” rocks, protection) to reach the summit of Kirgizata Vostochnaya. From the initial bivouac — 5–6 hours.

East Ridge

Jashtyk-To Mountain

2A category, 600 m, 40°, 4 people via Jashtyk Pass. March 31, 1981. Tsibulevsky, V. Zhmaev, M. Karpenkov, I. Shchekanov (leader). Kichik-Alay ridge, upper Kyrgyz-Ata valley. Scale: 1 cm = 500 m. Approximately 100 km from Osh city to Iski-Naukat forestry.

Main characteristics table for the route to Kyrgyz-Ata peak via Jashtyk Pass

| Date, time | Section | Group | Average steepness | Distance, m | Difficulty category | Relief type | Relief condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolts |

70. Kyzkochkan via the East Face

The route is rocky, category 5A difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73, 77–79). Length — 1000 m, elevation gain — 750 m, with 70°, VI — 20 m, duration — 14–16 hours. The approach path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2-6 people) to the initial bivouac in the Joldjilga gorge under the East Face of Kyzkochkan peak — see route 14.

• From the initial bivouac, approach the talus cone-outlet of the couloir on the left side of the East Face.
• Ascend 120–150 m up the talus on the right side of the cone-outlet, then possibly up a narrow snowy couloir descending between the southeast slopes of Kyzkochkan peak and the ridge-island, rising along the wall under the South Ridge of the peak, to a small ledge under the chimney on the left side of the huge internal angle formed by the light left edge of the East Face and the Southeast Face.
• From the ledge, ascend 40 m up and to the right via a moderately difficult route.
• Ascend a 55–60 m chimney to a ledge.
• From it, ascend a 25 m moderately difficult 60–70° chimney to reach the talus ledges in the center of the huge internal angle.
• From the angle, ascend traversing up and to the right along the ledges for 20–25 m, then up a 50 m moderately difficult 30 m slab and a difficult wall, left of the overhanging sections, to reach the Lower Shoulder of the Right Rib of the huge internal angle.
• From the shoulder, ascend 30–40 m up a difficult vertical wall, bypassing the overhanging rock "gendarmes" on the left, with an exit onto a short 6–10 m narrow rocky ridge of the Right Rib.
• From the ridge, ascend 70–80 m up, left of the cleft, via a difficult wall with very difficult short sections on the left side of the Right Rib.

I.— Rock Climbing Category

I.— Rock Climbing Category 2. REGION — KICHIK-ALAI RIDGE 3. PEAK — KIZKochKAN (4100 m) First ascent via the Northeast face, Central combined route 4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 4A 5. Elevation gain — 560 m Route length 235 m. Sections of IV-V difficulty category — 590, average steepness — 6. PITON USAGE:

• Rock pitons — 36

Compiled by: M. Levin, A. Praхов 1st shooting point of photo 1 and so on. PHOTO 1 MAP OF KYRGYZ-ATA GORGE (Kichik-Alay range) Iski-Naukat LESKHOZ R. Kurgan Highway Alpinada 3401

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Climbing area, Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge
3. Peak Kyzkochkan, height 4100 m (according to KTMGV), ascent route via the northern ridge
4. Proposed category: 4B
5. Route description: elevation gain 900 m, length of sections 5–6 km/tr, 280 m, average steepness 60°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating ITO. Rock pitons 67 (including 1 ice piton). Ice pitons —. Bolt pitons —.
7. Total climbing hours 10.8 + 4 hours of preliminary reconnaissance and processing on 20.08.1977.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one — in a tent on a constructed ledge. Safe, but no water.
9. Team leader, participants, and their qualifications:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Type of ascent: Rock climbing
2. Area of ascent, ridge: Pamir-Alay, ridge Kikik-Alay
3. Peak, height, ascent route: Kyzkochkan 4100 m, via the northern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2.5
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 800 m
   • Length of sections: 5–6 km/tech
   • Average steepness of technical sections: 60°

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category ROCK
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alay ridge
3. Summit Kyzkochkan height 4100 m Ascent route from Joljilga valley via the 3rd ridge (eastern slope)
4. Proposed difficulty category