Jashtyk-To Mountain
2A category, 600 m, 40°, 4 people via Jashtyk Pass. March 31, 1981. Tsibulevsky, V. Zhmaev, M. Karpenkov, I. Shchekanov (leader).
Kichik-Alay ridge, upper Kyrgyz-Ata valley. Scale: 1 cm = 500 m. Approximately 100 km from Osh city to Iski-Naukat forestry.
Main characteristics table for the route to Kyrgyz-Ata peak via Jashtyk Pass
| Date, time | Section | Group | Average steepness | Distance, m | Difficulty category | Relief type | Relief condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 1, 1981 | R0–R1 | 40 | 160 | II+ | Snow-ice slope | Many crevasses. Path should be scouted from below, on approaches. If there are ice screws, it's possible to go straight up. | Windy, broken cloud cover. | ||||
| Around 0°C | |||||||||||
| 3:20 | R1–R2 | 20 | 400 | II– | Scree ridge | Outcrops of broken rocks are bypassed on snow. | |||||
| R2–R3 | up to 30 | 900 | III– | Scree ridge | Descent from the eastern summit of Iv. Efremov peak via broken rocks; ascent to the Nameless peak also via broken rocks. Lots of snow. | ||||||
| R3–R4 | 25 | 400 | I | Scree slope | Frozen, snow-covered scree. |
Total climbing time is 3.8 hours; descending via the ascent route to "1969" Pass and down its western slope to the glacier takes an additional 1 hour.
Classification suggestions
This traverse offers the group multiple options for bypassing rock obstacles on the ridges, and is extremely useful for training purposes for independent ascents. Without ice screws, the group wasn't able to traverse the first section where they wanted, even with crampons, and had to adjust their route according to the snow-ice terrain. Finally, the route's length requires good physical fitness - it's significantly more challenging than all other 2A routes in the area. Overall, it's comparable to the route to Lagai-khokh from Skaazsky Pass. Due to the fact that its rock sections can be bypassed, the group proposes to include the route in the KTMGV as Kyrgyz-Ata 4756, 2A combined via Jashtyk Pass.
Route diagram in UAA symbols