Ascent Record
-
Ascent category ROCK
-
Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alay ridge
-
Summit Kyzkochkan height 4100 m Ascent route from Joljilga valley via the 3rd ridge (eastern slope)
-
Proposed difficulty category 1B
-
Route characteristics: Elevation gain 850 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category Average steepness 35°
-
Pitons used: FOR PROTECTION FOR BELAY STATIONS ROCK ICE BOLTED
-
Number of climbing hours 4 hrs
-
Number of nights and their characteristics
-
Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualification:
-
Samokotin Yu.T. – leader – III sports category.
-
Sherstobitov A.S. – II sports category.
-
Eroshina R.I. – III sports category.
-
Lukoyanov A.A. – III sports category.
-
Chernokun S.P. – III sports category.
-
Team coach: Levin M.S.
-
Date of departure and return August 24, 1977 August 24, 1977
- the described route is 1B category
August 24, 1977 – approach to the start of the route from the "2800" base camp in Joljilga valley – 2 hrs, from 8:00 to 9:30, R0–R1, 30°, 1000 m, moraine ridges, 1, sunny. Live rocks. Walking.
From 9:45 to 11:00, R1–R2, 45°, 400 m, scree couloir, 1, rock islands. Live rocks. In teams – simultaneously.
From 11:15 to 11:45, R2–R3, 55°, 30 m, rock ridge ascents, 2–5, two inclined walls with good ledges. Alternately – free climbing through ledges.
From 11:45 to 12:30, R3–R4, 10°, 250 m, rock ridge leading to Kyzkochan summit, 1, small gendarmes. Unstable, live rocks. Simultaneously – on the whole rope.
Descent via the ascent route to the "2800" base camp – 3.5 hrs.
Classification proposals:
Among the routes passed by the group, there are no purely rock "single" routes. However, in the group's opinion, the considerable length of the route and the need for belay organization allow them to petition for its inclusion in the KTMGV as
Kyzkochkan 4100 m, 1B category, via the southern route from Joljilga valley
Note: If one reaches the same saddle between Karagoy and Kyzkochan not from the south, but from the northwest, via A. Lukoyanov's route (see description of their route to Karagoy, 2A category), it will also be a 2A category route.
