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PASSPORT

  1. Rock.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Kirgiz-Ata gorge, 4180.
  3. Peak XX Congress of Komsomol via the counterfort of the South slope, 4200.
  4. Presumed Category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference – 150 m, length – 280 m.
  6. Route steepness – 50°. Pitons driven: Rock: 10 Bolt: 0 закладных: 0 Ice: 0
  7. Climbing hours – 3.
  8. No overnight stays.
  9. Group composition: Suviga V.I. — Master of Sports, Leader. Gorbunov Yu.A. — Candidate for Master of Sports, Participant. Ovcharenko S.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports, Safety Officer. Studenin A.B. — Candidate for Master of Sports, Participant.
  10. Group coach — Honored Coach of the USSR Ilyinsky E.T.

II. Ascent calendar: February 16, 1987 — departure and return from the ascent.

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img-2.jpeg 4400, Peak XX Congress of Komsomol, Peak Soviet Udмуртия. Photo #1.

Approach to the route description

From Osh city, take a scheduled bus to Naukhat settlement. Ascend along the road to the upper reaches of the Kirgiz-Ata tract.

From the geologists' house:

  • Up along the old road, left/north of the Мазар massif, 1 hour.

From the end of the road:

  • Along the trail along the stream past Peak Andizhanets.
  • The route profile is clearly visible (general view photo).
  • Bypass the massif of Peak XX Congress of Komsomol from the south (2 hours).
  • Ascend along the scree slopes to the beginning of the rock ridge of Peak XX Congress of Komsomol. (Photo #2 taken).
  • Then, via scree couloirs and small rock walls, approach the start of the route.

The approach from the geologists' houses takes 4–4.5 hours. img-3.jpeg

Map elements: Peaks: Peak XX Congress of Komsomol, Peak Soviet Udмуртия, 4400, Peak Мазар, Peak Вредная, Peak Десятикассник. Localities: Naukhat settlement, Osh settlement, Osh city. Base camp.

Legend: Highway. Dirt road. Trail. End of old road.

[www.alpfe­de­ra­tion.ru]www.alpfederation.ruimg-4.jpeg

Route scheme in UIAA symbols

Ascent path. Descent path.

Section #LengthSteepnessDifficulty category
R140 m70°III
R230 m60°II
R310 m55°II
R440 m15°I
R540 m10°I
R620 m60°II
R7100 m30°II

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Sources

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