Photo #5. Section R2–R3. Shooting point Ф5. Photo #7. Section R3–R4. Shooting point Ф7. Photo #6. Section R3–R4. Shooting point Ф6. Photo #8. Beginning of section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф8. Photo #9. Upper part of section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф9. Photo #10. On section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф10. Photo #11. Section R5–R6. Shooting point Ф11. Photo #12. Beginning of section R6–R7. Shooting point Ф12.

21. Legendarnaya Magnitka via the north slope of the Northeast Ridge.

64. LVO via the East Ridge

PASSAGE II ROUTE DOCUMENT

1. Climbing Location — Rock Climbing Category.
2. Climbing Region — Alay Range, Kichik-Alay.
3. Climbing Route — Peak LVO (4003 m) via the Northeast Face.
4. Difficulty Category according to KTGV — 5B category.
5. Route Characteristics:

• Route length — 1000 m,
• Elevation gain — 700 m,
• Length of sections — IV category — 300 m
• V category — 280 m

50

Category of Technically Difficult Climbs

Khud Alay Range

(Kichik-Alay Ridge) Peak "4003" (LVO Peak). First ascent via the northeast wall, category 5B (approximately) from July 27 to 31, 1974. LVO Mixed Climbing Team:

• A.V. Gaas, CMS, - team leader
• O.V. Khudyakov, IMS, - coach
• S.A. Fedorov, CMS, - participant
• Yu.P. Gavrikov, MS, - participant

LVO

The peak named after the Leningrad Military District (LVO) with a height of 4003 m was named by the army climbers of Leningrad in 1974. The rocky tower of the peak completes a short spur of the Southern ridge of the Karagoy peak in the Joljilga gorge. In the Joljilga gorge, LVO is flanked by steep walls and ridges, while the Ruchyev and East-Karagoy cirques have short, ruined rocky slopes, beneath which lie small, moraine-covered glaciers of the same name. The northern short ridge and southern walls await their first ascenders. 62. LVO via the Southwest Ridge, category 3A (M. Levin et al., August 12, 1982). 63. LVO via the Northeast Wall, category 4A (A. Gaas, Yu. Gavrikov, S. Fedorov, O. Khudyakov, July 27-30, 1974; G. Sidorov, N. Andreev, V. Vidyakin, V. Nadein, August 10, 1977). 64. LVO via the Eastern Ridge, category 4B (G. Rozhalskaya, V. Kirillov, B. Kozlov, G. Semenyuta, August 7, 1977; A. Tarasenko et al., 1983). 62. LVO via the Southwest Ridge The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5, 61, 62, 72). Length — 450 m, H — 200 m, time — 4–5 hours.

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION 48

1. CATEGORY — TECHNICAL
2. REGION — KICHIK-ALAY ridge (Kurgan (south))
3. PEAK — S.M. TSVILLINGA peak 4326 m, first ascent via the north face (COMB.)
4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 910 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 347 m Average steepness — 70°
6. PITS ON: For belaying: rock — 77, for creating artificial anchors (ИТО): rock — 9. Ice — 10. Bolts — (no data)

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: Technical
2. Climbing region, range: Pamir-Alay, Kikik-Alay range
3. Peak: Tsvilling S.M. peak Height: 4326 m Ascent route: from Tsvilling pass
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4–5
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: ~850 m Length of sections: 5–6 with 3rd category difficulty, 30 m

Climbing Route Descriptions

I. Peak "Sтроитель Токтогульской ГЭС" (Builder of Toktogul HPP) Kurgan

The first ascent was made by a group consisting of Koporushkin V.G. (leader), Inozemtsev Yu.P., Kuzmichenok V.A., Tonka A.R. (all - 2nd sports category) in the period November 2-4, 1972. The route diagram is shown in Fig. 2. The mountain spur, in which the peak is located, stretches along the right bank of the Kurgan River in a north-northwest - south-southeast direction. The overall view of the route is shown in Fig. 3 (from the side of Tyuya Tash peak) and Fig. 4 (from the side of Sur-Too peak). Approach. From the bivouac, after crossing to the left bank of a nameless stream, we descend to the south. After 10-15 minutes of walking, we cross a stream flowing from under Dzhelan-Konybashi peak. Further, the trail goes along the right bank of the right-bank tributary of the Kurgan River (the stream originates under the Kumbel pass). After 1.5 hours of walking from the base camp, the trail crosses to the left bank of the tributary and goes along the snow-covered moraine in the direction of the southeastern ridge of Sur-Too peak (2 hours). Route. Further movement along the ridge in the direction of the saddle between Sur-Too peak and Peak "Builder of Toktogul HPP" - initially under the cliffs, and then along the cliffs of the western slopes of the ridge. There is a convenient place for an overnight stay on the saddle. The travel time from the base camp to the saddle is 6 hours. From the saddle, move along the crest to the I gendarme, which is bypassed on the left in the direction of travel. Further, we bypass the lower part of the II gendarme on the left. Then, along a snowy couloir, and in the upper part - along the cliffs with piton protection (1 piton) - we reach the crest under the III gendarme.

9. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west via Central couloir. The route is combined, category of difficulty 2A (fig. 5, 6, 15, 16, 18). Length — 1200 m, ascent — 700 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. The path from "Kirgizat" alpine camp (group of 2–4 people) to the initial bivouac on the moraine of Kurgan gorge under the Central couloir of Kurgan peak — see route 10. Departure from the initial bivouac at 3:00–4:00. Up the scree slope, then up the wide 35–40° scree Central couloir for 600–800 m (rockfall, protection). Further 300–350 m up the right branch of the couloir, from which exit left to a site above the long rocky Western spur — a bastion dividing the upper part of the Central couloir. From the site, 120–150 m up and right along a 30–35° steep scree slope to the snowy shoulder of the Western ridge. From the shoulder, left and 80–100 m up simple and moderately difficult 40–50° rocks of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, protection) to the summit of Kurgan Glavnaya. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours. The route is prone to rockfall!! img-0.jpeg Fig. 18. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west