- LVO via the East Ridge
The route is rocky, category 4B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 71, 72). Length — 800 m, elevation gain — 500 m, α — 45°, V — 30 m, time — 8–10 hours. The approach from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2-6 people) to the initial bivouac in the middle part of the Joldjilga gorge, opposite the eastern walls of LVO peak — see route 14. From the initial bivouac, follow the moraine to the left side of the base of LVO peak's East Ridge. From here, 120–130 m up and to the right on simple, destroyed 35–40° rocks and slabs to a scree platform under the 1st wall of the East Ridge. Control cairn. From the platform, a 40–45-meter traverse under the wall up and to the right on a scree ledge on the right side of the East Ridge. From the end of the ledge, 70–80 m up steep 60–70° walls of above-average difficulty, with 2–3-meter difficult sections ("live" rocks, accumulated ice) — exit onto the East Ridge. From here, on simple and moderately difficult steep 40–50° rocks on the left side of the East Ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the left, 70–80 m up to under the Red Wall. On the right side of the 80–85° difficult wall, 20 m up to a ledge. From the ledge, 15 m up a difficult vertical wall to a diagonal ledge. On an inclined, moderately difficult diagonal ledge, 10 m up and to the left, then on a 10-meter wall of above-average difficulty ("live" rocks) rise to the Red Wall. Then, 70–80 m on simple 35–40° slabs of the East Ridge approach under the 3rd wall. Overcome it head-on on 40–50-meter rocks of average difficulty with a 5-meter chimney in the upper part. Then, 25–30 m on 45–50° moderately difficult slabs of the East Ridge. Exit onto a scree platform. II control cairn. From the platform, 200–300 m up on simple and moderately difficult 45–50° rocks of the East Ridge rise to the Northeast Ridge. Here, turn left and on a horizontal 40-meter simple Northeast Ridge and a 20–25-meter wall of average difficulty ascend to the summit of LVO. From the initial bivouac — 8–10 hours.
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