Alay Mountains

Mountain range24,484.34 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
0

Ascent of Koltsov Peak (4824 m) via the Eastern wall in the Pamir-Alay, 5B difficulty category, a combined route.

I. Category of ascent: technical 2. Area of ascent: Pamir-Alai, Southern spurs of the Alai Ridge, Kemisdikty glacier area. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Koltsova peak, Main summit, 4824 m, East wall. 4. Difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: the route is combined, height difference 924 m, including 700 m of wall section. Length of sections 5–6: 515 m, total route length 1625 m. Average steepness of the East wall 78°. 6. Pitons driven (for belay / for hanging):

0
0

Ascent to the summit 4824 m via the North-Eastern ridge, grade 4A, combined route with an altitude difference of 950 m.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Koksu tract area, Alai ridge, Kemisdykty glacier cirque.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4824, via north-eastern ridge.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • route — combined;
    • height difference — 950 m;
    • length of sections 5–6;
0
0

Description of the ascent route to Peak 4448 m in the Dzhungar ranges of Altai, category 4A difficulty level, rocky terrain, elevation gain 744 m.

Ascent Log

  1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Begichi gorge.
  3. Peak — 4448 m, via the eastern counterfort.
  4. Presumed category of difficulty — 4A.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 744 m, average steepness — 40°, total length of sections — 1180 m, 2nd category difficulty — 180 m, 3rd category difficulty — 620 m, 4th category difficulty — 180 m.
  6. Pitons hammered: for rock belay — 21.
  7. Total travel time — 9 hours.
  8. Group composition: leader — Chernyaev A.I., 1st sports category, members — Engalycheva R.I., CMS, Zemlyanov M.E., 1st sports category, Kudryashov V.S., 1st sports category.
  9. Team coach — Kudryashov V.S.
0
0

Traverse of unnamed peaks "D" 4850 m in Dzhungarsky Alatau, grade 4A, route length 1830 m, with significant elevation gain.

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

  1. Ascent type: traverse.
  2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alaysky ridge, Kок-Су gorge.
  3. Traverse of unnamed peaks "D" 4850 m - "P" 4840 m - "T" 4950 m.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference:
    • section lengths:
      • no category - none
0
0

Description of a category 3B difficulty level route to Peak "I" (4850 m) via the north-eastern counterfort in the Alay mountain range, Kок-су valley.

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Climbing area — Alai Range, Koksu valley.
  3. Summit — Peak "G", 4850 m, via the north-eastern counterfort.
  4. Difficulty category — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 360 m, length — 470 m, average steepness — 50°
  6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock pitons — 24
  7. Total climbing hours — 4.
  8. Overnight stays — none.
0
0

### Ascent Route to Peak "N" Overview Detailed analysis of the technical characteristics and necessary equipment for a 4-person team.

Ascent Passport

Technical

  1. Ascent class: Technical
  2. Ascent area (according to KTMGV): Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge, Koksu Valley
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Unnamed "N" 4600 m Eastern ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 650 m average steepness 45° section length: I 220 m, II 300 m, III 160 m, IV 200 m, V 25 m, VI 1 m
0
0

Report on the first ascent of the route to Bykovsky Peak via the eastern wall of the eastern ridge, with a complexity rating of 4B cat. gr.

Report

ON TRAVERSE P. "N" — P. Bykovsky with ascent via the eastern wall of the eastern ridge of P. "N", 4B cat. diff. (approximately). First ascent. 2nd: Bogomolov S. G., August 15, 1978 Krul V. N. ~650 m, ascent 50°, III–440, IV–80, V–40. asc. cr., 6.5 hours. July 1978

Map of the ascent area

Appendix No.2

0
0

Ascent record of **Zidarbek Peak (5127 m)** via the **N-E wall** route (Category 5B difficulty) in the southern spurs of the **Alay Range**.

Ascent Passport

Appendix I I. Ascent class — technical II. Ascent area — Southern spurs of Alay mountain range III. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Aydarbek 5127 m via N-E wall, route "SHAGINYAN" by A. DMITRIEV, 78 IV. Proposed difficulty category — 5B V. Route characteristics:

  • Height difference — 1100 m
  • Average steepness — 60°
0
0

First ascent of the Aidarbek peak (5127 m) in the Alai Range via the North-Eastern face, category 5B.

Ascent Passport

I. ASCENT CLASSIFICATION — technical, first ascent. 2. ASCENT AREA, RIDGE — southern spurs of the Alay Ridge. 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE — Aydarbek, 5127 m, via the NE wall. 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B cat. diff. 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference 1100 m, length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 590 m, average steepness — 60 °. 6. PITS DRIVEN:

  • rock: for belaying — 54, for creating FTO — 1
  • ice: for belaying — 29, for creating FTO — 4
  • bolt: for belaying — (none), for creating FTO — 4
0
0

Report by the Ural Military District team on the third ascent via the north wall of Peak Aydaybek (5127 m) following the route by M. Ginzburg.

«Technical Class»

Report

URAL MILITARY DISTRICT TEAM'S ASCENT OF PIK AYDAREK (5127 m) VIA THE NORTH FACE (GINZBURG'S ROUTE) - THIRD ASCENT

TEAM LEADER ZADVORYEV YU. V.– Candidate Master of Sports
KAZANTSEV S. K.– 1st sports category
PAKHOMOV V. D.– 1st sports category
TARKHOV E. V.– Candidate Master of Sports
YAKOVLEV V. D.– Master of Sports
0
0
Showing 91–100 of 210 results