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Ascent Passport

Appendix I

I. Ascent class — technical

II. Ascent area — Southern spurs of Alay mountain range

III. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Aydarbek 5127 m via N-E wall, route "SHAGINYAN" by A. DMITRIEV, 78

IV. Proposed difficulty category — 5B

V. Route characteristics:

  • Height difference — 1100 m
  • Average steepness — 60°
  • Length of sections: 2 m, 3 m, 4 m, 5 600 m, 6 m
  1. Number of pitons for protection to create belays:
  • Rock pitons — 30
  • Ice pitons — 4
  • Bolt pitons — 0
  1. Total climbing time — 24 hours

  2. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

  • One bivouac — lying down.
  1. Surname of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
  • Climbing pair:
    1. Lopatnikov Vladimir Vasilievich — CMS
    2. Neverov Valerov Nikolaevich — CMS
  1. Team coach — Agranovsky G. L. — Master of Sports of the USSR

  2. Date of departure and return: July 20-21, 1979

Note:

  1. Total length of sections from I to VI difficulty category in meters.
  2. The passport is to be filled on a Whatman paper sheet of size 297×210. On the back of the passport, a photograph of the peak with the route and all previously climbed routes marked on it should be glued, size 18×24 cm.

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p. Aydarbek 5127

  1. Photograph taken on July 16, 1979.
  2. The peak of Aydarbek is not visible.
  3. The amount of snow on the route decreased by July 20.

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Appendix 2

DateSectionAvg. steepnessLength, mTerrain characteristicsDiff.ConditionWeatherRock pitonsIce pitonsBolt pitons
20.07.1979R130°250 mSnow slope2GoodClear000
R280°10 mBergschrund4Hard névé.000
R345°100 mSnow-ice slope4000
R475°100 mRocks4Good300
R560°160 mRocks3Good1200
R660°160 mRock slabs4Some snow600
R780°100 mRocks5Some iceCloudy400
R850°120 mIce slope, rocks5Hard névé., ice.620
R950°160 mHard névé slope, rocks5Hard névé., rocks with ice210
R1050°120 m5Rocks with iceCloudy210
R1170°80 mRocks5Rocks with ice200
R1240°350 mRidge3Rocks with ice000

Attached files

Sources

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