Tsarnto
The second peak from the south of the Suychikty spur is Tsarnto, which is 4560 m high, and stands between the peaks of Chakatash to the south (across the South Charat pass) and Charat Yuzhnaya to the north, across the North Charat pass. The northeast ridge of the peak forms a small cirque with the South Charat glacier. The peak is straightforward, heavily destroyed, and lies far from basic mountaineering camps, so it has only seen a first ascent via the East (Northeast) ridge on August 12, 1990, by a group of Latvian mountaineers from the "Kirgizat" alpine camp, comprising:
- R. Laveinis,
- I. Ivulans,
- Yu. Lusis,
- K. Miller, who rated the route as 2A category difficulty.
- Tsarnto via the East Ridge. The route is combined, 2A category difficulty (fig. 5, 87, 89, 91). The length is 750 m, the height gain is 335 m, and the time required is 3–4 hours. The approach from the "Kirgizat" alpine camp (group size 2–12 people) to the western slopes of the peak B. Ruchyeva is described in route 23. From here, cross the Suychikty gorge upwards to the right and exit onto the Charat glacier via the moraines. The initial bivouac is located on the moraines before exiting onto the glacier. The time from the alpine camp is 7–8 hours. From the initial bivouac, follow the gentle Charat glacier, along the eastern slopes of the Northeast ridge of Tsarnto, then to the right, along the East (after the ridge turns west) Northeast ridge. From the glacier, pass the bergschrund and ascend the East ridge via a gentle 150–200-meter snowy slope. Here, turn right and follow the gentle 250–400-meter snow-covered (cornices, protection) straightforward ridge with sections of destroyed rocks, approaching the ascent. Via the ice-snow ascent (pitons for protection), then along the sharp, gentle 40–80-meter snowy ridge (cornices, protection), approach the summit ascent. Ascend the summit of Tsarnto via the steep, destroyed rocks of the 30–40-meter inner corner (protection) and straightforward 60-meter rocks of the East ridge. The time from the initial bivouac is 3–4 hours.
