Ascent Passport

1. Region — Altai, Akkem valley.
2. XX let Oktyabrya — Belukha Zap. — Delone via East counterfort (4A) of the Western plateau, traverse.
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty variant.
4. Elevation difference 1500 m, length about 10 km. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 55°, length — 1200 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 30 ice — 20
6. Travel hours — 32, days — 7 (including 2 days of bivouac on the route due to bad weather).

Ascent Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem valley.
3. Korona Altaya peak 4170 m. Central part of the Eastern Wall.
4. Route 6B (Afanasyev's route variation, 2002).
5. Route height difference: 1120 m (wall base 3050 m – summit 4170 m). Route length about 1300 m (excluding the western plateau).
6. Wall section length about 1100 m (height difference about 1000 m).
7. Section length of 5th grade complexity ~490 m. Section length of 6th grade complexity ~275 m.

Ascent Passport

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ФЕДЕРАЦИЯ АЛЬПИНИЗМА РОССИИ 1.1. 67 pg.1 6А3 м. 5 dated 15.03.02

1. Region, gorge, KTGV section №: Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge, Ak-kem gorge, № 1.1.34.
2. Peak: ХХ let Oktyabrya Tsentralnaya; route name: via North-Eastern wall.
3. Proposed: 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.

Report

on the second traverse of the peaks XX let Oktyabrya — Delone along the central counterfort, main ridge, from Akkem glacier, 5B category of difficulty (KTMGV #1.31) by the team of Altai Regional Sports Committee and Gorno-Altaisk Rescue Service of EMERCOM of Russia. Team leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category. 1996. PHOTO #2. Profile of the wall to the right of peak XX let Oktyabrya The photo was taken from Akkem glacier in 07.1994. Camera — "Smena-8M".

1. Geographical Location of the Climbing Area and its Sporting Characteristics The traverse of the Akkem Wall was carried out in the Central Altai region, in the highest area of the Katunsky ridge. This region is home to several peaks over 4000–4200 m, including the highest point in Altai - Belukha mountain (4506 m). The powerful double-headed Belukha massif (over 70 km), rising half a kilometer above the surrounding peaks, divides the entire Katunsky ridge into two parts, differing in height and character. To the west, the peaks do not exceed 3300–3400 m, rising only 300–400 m above the snow line and lacking significant snow cover. To the east of Belukha, the ridge continues, almost without descending, for about 50 km with peaks reaching 3600–4000 m. The main center of glaciation of the Katunsky ridge is the Belukha massif (the Eastern and Western peaks are separated by a relatively shallow saddle 40–50 m).

• To the north, the massif drops off with a very steep rocky wall over 1000 m high.
• To the south, it slopes more gently towards the surface of the Katunsky glacier. Six valley glaciers descend from the slopes of the Belukha massif, two of which (Katunsky and Chyorny), located on the southern and southwestern slopes, give rise to the Katun River, the main water artery of Altai. Most of the glaciation of the Belukha massif is concentrated on its northern slopes. From here:
• To the west flows the Myshutaiyry glacier (Kucherlinsky), giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Katun.
• To the north - the Akkemsky glacier, feeding the Akkem River, also flowing into the Katun.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DELONE B. VIA THE NE SLOPE, CATEGORY 4B ROUTE BY THE TEAM FROM NOVOSIBIRSK ON AUGUST 15, 2019.

I. Ascent Passport

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: p. Delone 4260 m, NW buttress, combined.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1260 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — 575 m, average steepness — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and chockstones — 35, ice screws — 56.
7. Number of climbing hours: 16 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one on the descent.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification:

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP ICE AND SNOW CLIMBING CLASS.

Report

On the first ascent to the Delaunay peak via the North face by the team of PSS EMERCOM RF from Gorno-Altaysk. 1996 Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunistichesky ave., 160, apt. 33. Yakubovsky Valery Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya str., 26, apt. 2.

Passport

Ascent Profile

1. Class: ice and snow
2. Region: Altai, Akkem gorge
3. Peak: Delaunay, left part of the NW side
4. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1100 m. Length: 1600 m to the Delaunay–Belukha ridge. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 630 m, 6th category: 55 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 59°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock pitons — 7
   • chocks — 38
   • ice screws — 52

Russian Alpinism Championship

Ice and Snow Ascent Class

Report

On the second ascent to the peak Delone via the left part of the Northwest wall by the team of the Emergency Response Team (ERT) of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the Russian Federation, Gorno-Altaysk. Team Leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category Coach: Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category Participants:

• Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunisticheskij Ave., 160, apt. 33.
• Yakubovsky Valeriy Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya st., 26, apt. 2

Passport