Ascent Passport

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ФЕДЕРАЦИЯ АЛЬПИНИЗМА РОССИИ 1.1. 67 pg.1 6А3 м. 5 dated 15.03.02

  1. Region, gorge, KTGV section №: Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge, Ak-kem gorge, № 1.1.34.

  2. Peak: ХХ let Oktyabrya Tsentralnaya; route name: via North-Eastern wall.

  3. Proposed: 6B cat. diff., first ascent.

  4. Route type: combined.

  5. Route elevation gain — 1150 m; length — 1400 m, length of sections with V cat. diff. — 347 m, VI cat. diff. — 310 m, average steepness: main part of the route — 73°; entire route — 65°.

  6. Pitons left on the route: total — 7, drilled — 3; Pitons used: stationary drilled — 3, incl. ITO — none; removable drilled — 4, incl. ITO — 2; total ITO used — 158.

  7. Team's climbing hours: 92 hours, 13 days.

  8. Team leader: Afanasiev Andrey Evgenievich — MS;

    Participants: Kolesov Pavel Olegovich — CMS, Salin Alexander Vladimirovich — 1st sports category, Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich — CMS, Khandazhapov Bair Alexandrovich — 1st sports category, Sherstnev Igor Vladimirovich — CMS.

  9. Coach: Afanasiev Andrey Evgenievich — MS.

  10. Acclimatization: February 11, 2002 – February 17, 2002; Departure for the route: February 21, 2002; Summit: February 28, 2002, at 11:30 local time. Control time limit: February 28, 2002, at 23:00 local time.

www.alpfederation.ru

img-0.jpeg img-1.jpeg

General photo of ХХ let Oktyabrya peak

4a N/A 6A 58 угт

www.alpfederation.ru

img-2.jpeg

Peak ХХ let Oktyabrya Tsentralnaya

R66 6. ХХ let Oktyabrya Tsentralnaya Фан R6 R3 R0

www.alpfederation.ru

img-3.jpeg

Area map

www.alpfederation.ru

img-4.jpeg

Left wall profile photo

pg. 3

www.alpfederation.ru

img-5.jpeg

Right wall profile photo

pg. 3a

www.alpfederation.ru

img-6.jpeg

Route diagram in UIAA symbols M.1:2000

pg. 8

Pitons (1)Pitons (2)SectionCat. diff.Length (m)Slope (°)
13R2332050
R226575
2R2151370
1R2021045
41R1931050
3/1R1851070
2/2R176345
R165590
5/4R1551075
6/5R1451575
2/21R136490
7/4R1251575
1R114570
16/10R1052585
5/31R96690
3R85785
1R751075
4
6R642065
13R526045
5R435050
2R329045
5R236050
1R152550
3/1R05790

www.alpfederation.ru

img-7.jpeg img-8.jpeg

Photo

pg.

www.alpfederation.ru

img-9.jpeg

Route diagram (continued)

pg. 9a

Pitons (1)Pitons (2)SectionCat. diff.Length (m)Slope (°)
23R5065065
5R4953560
15/5R4861590
2R4741060
21R4642555
6/5R4551575
12R4432555
6/6R4361590
2R4251560
3R4132555
12/9R4061090
3/3R396690
1R384585
14/11R3762090
6/6R3651585
14R3551880
10/7R3461590
12R3341575
5/5R3261090
52R3152575
3R3031555
9R2952580
3R2833050
R275575
7R2642055
12R2551580
2R244770

www.alpfederation.ru

img-10.jpeg

Route diagram (continued)

pg. 8b peak ХХ let Oktyabrya Tsentralnaya

SnowIceRockDrilledSectionCat. diff.Length (m)Slope (°)
R664030
R65
3R6435050
12101R6362585
22R6242550
12R6144560
107R6061590
1717R5963590
3225R5855075
15R5742560
13R5651575
2R5538 трав, ерс
13027R5465087
1441R5353060
R5247 спуск
1R51625 трав, ерс

www.alpfederation.ru

img-11.jpeg

Bivouac on section R32

pg. 12

www.alpfederation.ru

img-13.jpeg

Section R50

www.alpfederation.ru

img-14.jpeg

Section R57–R60

pg. 14

www.alpfederation.ru

img-15.jpeg

Section R59–R61

www.alpfederation.ru

img-16.jpeg

img-0.jpegimg-0.jpegimg-1.jpegimg-1.jpegimg-2.jpegimg-2.jpegimg-3.jpegimg-3.jpegimg-4.jpegimg-4.jpegimg-5.jpegimg-5.jpegimg-6.jpegimg-6.jpegimg-7.jpegimg-7.jpegimg-8.jpegimg-8.jpegimg-9.jpegimg-9.jpegimg-10.jpegimg-10.jpegimg-11.jpegimg-11.jpegimg-13.jpegimg-13.jpegimg-14.jpegimg-14.jpegimg-15.jpegimg-15.jpegimg-16.jpegimg-16.jpeg

Attached files

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment