The route passes through the part of the Ak-Kem wall visible from Lake Ak-Kem, with an exit to the Western plateau. The route begins from the left upper cirque of the Ak-Kem glacier at an altitude of 3100 m. Section R0–R1. Snow slope. Section R1–R2. Bergschrund 4 m. Insurance through an ice axe. Section R2–R3. Firn slope under a hanging glacier. Section R3–R4. Tongue of a hanging glacier. Ice is hard. Section R4–R5. Snow cushion of a hanging glacier with ice islands. Section R5–R6. Firn bergschrund. Section R6–R2. Belt of ice-filled rocks. Steepness 45–50°. Section R7–R8. Icy rock belt 65°. Section R8–R9. Ice slope with rock islands.

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120 m 70–80° I

XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement. Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard. Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps. Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs. Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha. Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m. Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m. Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices! Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

E­ca­sa3 4456

3

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge. Akkem lake area.
3. Assumed 1B category of difficulty first ascent
4. Height difference 800 m, length 1300 m.
5. 9.5 walking hours from the camp on the shore of Akkem lake to the camp
6. Drakin A.V. CMS
   • Belyaev P.A. 3rd sports category
   • Vinnikov K.E. 1st sports category
   • Egorov L.M. 3rd sports category

Passport

I. Altai Katunsky ridge. Akkem gorge. 2. Mt. Boris, NE slope, height 3375 m. 3. Proposed 3A–3B cat. dif. (first ascent). 4. Elevation gain 550 m, length 1000 m. 5. Average steepness of the key section of the route 45–50°. 6. Climbing hours (from the base camp on Akkem lake and back) 15 h. 7. Used pitons: ice screws — 8 8. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS Participants:

PASSPORT

1. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem gorge.
2. Peak Bronya, 3260 m via South-Southwest ridge.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty (ascents via this route have been made multiple times before).
4. Elevation gain 550 m, total length 2300 m.
5. Moving time 10 hours.
6. Leader: Drakin A.V. participants:

• Ziatkov N.I.
• Alshakov V.B.

Gro­ma 25 cm. 2 mi­be­re:

• 800
• 1000
• 30
• 300
• 4000

10. 1000 res­se­mo­tseo, K. Akt­au­e 11, 12. 1125, 1125, 112. 112.85 r. Section R0–R1. Straight ridge 150 m. 40°. Section R1–R2. Ridge 300 m · 20°. Section R2–R3. 1st gendarme — key section. Two walls, through cracks and rocks 7–8 m., 80°. Total length of the section is 100 m., steepness 45°. 5 m. descent by