Report

on the second traverse of the peaks XX let Oktyabrya — Delone along the central counterfort, main ridge, from Akkem glacier, 5B category of difficulty (KTMGV #1.31) by the team of Altai Regional Sports Committee and Gorno-Altaisk Rescue Service of EMERCOM of Russia.

Team leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category.

PHOTO #2. Profile of the wall to the right of peak XX let Oktyabrya

The photo was taken from Akkem glacier in 07.1994.

Camera — "Smena-8M".

Passport

I. Class — technical 2. Altai, Katun Ridge, Akkem valley 3. Peaks XX let Oktyabrya — Delone along the main ridge, traverse 4. Category of difficulty — 5B, 2nd ascent 5. Wall section height difference: 1050 m, total traverse length — 7500 m Wall section length — 1400 m Length of 5th grade sections — 450 m Average steepness of the wall section — 50° 6. Pitons used: rock: 38 chocks: 76 ice screws: 24 7. Climbing hours: 24, days — 3 8. Overnights: 1st on the ridge near peak XX let Oktyabrya, 2nd on the col before peak Delone 9. Team leader: SLOBODCHIKOV Igor Vladimirovich — 1st sports category. Team members:

• ZYATKOV Nikolai Alekseevich — 1st sports category.
• MIKHALEV Sergei Vasil'evich — 1st sports category.
• SHUMILOV Valerii Dmitrievich — 1st sports category.

10. Coaches:
    • PLOTNIKOV Ivan Aleksandrovich — Master of Sports of International Class
    • YAKUBOVSKII Valerii Ivanovich — 1st sports category.
11. Approach to the route: August 14, 1996. Summit: XX let Oktyabrya — August 14, 1996. Belukha (3) — August 15, 1996. Belukha (V) — August 15, 1996. Delone — August 16, 1996. Return: August 16, 1996.
12. Organizations: Altai Regional Sports Committee, Gorno-Altaisk Rescue Service of EMERCOM of Russia

PHOTO #1. Panorama of Akkem valley. The photo was taken from the slopes of peak Boris (3375 m) in 07.1994. Camera — "Smena-8M".

Routes

1. Gorno-Altaisk, 1996 peak Delone via NW wall, first ascent 2B. 2a. Moscow, 1996 peak Delone via NW wall, first ascent 2B. 2b. G. Andreeva, 1951 peak Delone via NW wall, 5B category of difficulty.
2. Gorno-Altaisk, 1996 peak Belukha (V) via the right part of NW wall, first ascent
3. A. Belova, 1986 peak Belukha (V) via icefalls of NW wall, 5B category of difficulty.
4. A. Afanas'eva, 1986 peak Belukha (V) via the direct line of N wall, 5A (or. 5B) category of difficulty.
5. Barnaul, 1996 peak Belukha (3) via the direct line of N wall, first ascent
6. I. Altaiskogo, 1983 peak XX let Oktyabrya via the right part of E wall, 6A category of difficulty.
7. Barnaul, 1996 peak XX let Oktyabrya via the left edge of SE wall, main ridge, first ascent
8. G. Andreeva, 1963 traverse of peaks XX let Oktyabrya — Delone, main ridge, 5B category of difficulty (route of the team, 2nd ascent).

During the training camp of Altai Regional Sports Committee, the team led by I. Slobodchikov completed the traverse of the peaks of Akkem wall from XX let Oktyabrya (4167 m) to Delone (4200 m) with an ascent to peak XX let Oktyabrya via the central counterfort, 5A category of difficulty (route of G. Andreeva, 1963). This was the second ascent of the route.

Until 1993, the ascent via the central counterfort was considered a 4A category route, which did not reflect its actual difficulty. Therefore, since the 1960s, nobody had attempted this route.

During the ascent via the central counterfort of peak XX let Oktyabrya, the team found forged pitons used at that time.

The route is long and, with frequent bad weather in the area, presents a certain complexity in terms of tactics, technique, and psychology.

R0–R1. Ascent to the central counterfort via a snowy slope, then along the ridge to the beginning of the rocky rib. Movement is simultaneous and alternating.

R1–R2. Rocky belt — loose, "live" stones. Despite a relatively low steepness of up to 40° — this is a rather complex technical section. Movement is alternating, with protection using rock climbing equipment.

R2–R3. Main part of the counterfort. Complex walls, snow-covered and icy monolithic rock blocks. This section is similar in structure to similar sections on neighboring routes of 6A category of difficulty and the first ascent of approximately 5B category of difficulty (within the framework of the Russian Championship, ice and snow class). Movement is alternating, using the entire set of rock and ice climbing equipment for protection. In the middle of the section, the team left their control cairn.

R3–R4. Ascent to the pre-summit ridge and then to the summit of XX let Oktyabrya. Ice and snow slope, movement is alternating and simultaneous.

R4–R5. Traverse initially along the ridge of peak XX let Oktyabrya, then along the Western plateau to the ice and snow slope and further 5–6 rope lengths to the summit of Belukha (3). Movement is simultaneous and alternating, protection via ice screws and ice axes. Special attention should be paid to the huge cornices on the traverse path. The line of cornice failure is not always clearly visible. Practically anywhere, there are convenient platforms for organizing a bivouac.

R5–R6. Traverse between the two summits Belukha (3) and Belukha (V). Initially, descent via a snowy slope to the col, then ascent via the western ridge to the summit of Belukha (V). Movement is simultaneous.

R6–R7. Descent from the summit of Belukha (V) to the col and further ascent via the corniced ridge to the summit of Delone. Organization of a bivouac on the col. Movement is simultaneous and alternating, protection using the terrain.

Descent from the summit of Delone via the 3B category route.