RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

ICE AND SNOW CLIMBING CLASS.

Report

On the first ascent to the Delaunay peak via the North face by the team of PSS EMERCOM RF from Gorno-Altaysk.

1996

Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunistichesky ave., 160, apt. 33.

Yakubovsky Valery Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya str., 26, apt. 2.

Passport

I. Ice and snow class. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Ak-Kem gorge. 3. Delaunay peak via the North face, combined route (4200 m). 4. Elevation gain: 1000 m, total length – 1340 m. 5. Proposed – 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 6. Length of sections with technical difficulties – 120 m. Average steepness of the wall section – 55°. 7. Pitons driven: rock 2/0, chocks 3/0, ice screws 0/0. 8. Team's travel hours: 10 days – 1. 9. Team leader: Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich — 1st sports category. Climber: Zyatkov Nikolai Alekseevich — 1st sports category. 10. Coach: Yakubovsky Valery Ivanovich — 1st sports category. 11. Departure to the route: August 23, 1993. Summit: August 23, 1993. Return: August 28, 1993. 12. Organization: Gorno-Altaysk PSS EMERCOM of Russia.

Tactical actions and route description

Map of the area

M 1:100 000