1. Geographical Location of the Climbing Area and its Sporting Characteristics

The traverse of the Akkem Wall was carried out in the Central Altai region, in the highest area of the Katunsky ridge. This region is home to several peaks over 4000–4200 m, including the highest point in Altai - Belukha mountain (4506 m). The powerful double-headed Belukha massif (over 70 km), rising half a kilometer above the surrounding peaks, divides the entire Katunsky ridge into two parts, differing in height and character. To the west, the peaks do not exceed 3300–3400 m, rising only 300–400 m above the snow line and lacking significant snow cover.

To the east of Belukha, the ridge continues, almost without descending, for about 50 km with peaks reaching 3600–4000 m. The main center of glaciation of the Katunsky ridge is the Belukha massif (the Eastern and Western peaks are separated by a relatively shallow saddle 40–50 m).

• To the north, the massif drops off with a very steep rocky wall over 1000 m high.
• To the south, it slopes more gently towards the surface of the Katunsky glacier.

Six valley glaciers descend from the slopes of the Belukha massif, two of which (Katunsky and Chyorny), located on the southern and southwestern slopes, give rise to the Katun River, the main water artery of Altai.

Most of the glaciation of the Belukha massif is concentrated on its northern slopes. From here:

• To the west flows the Myshutaiyry glacier (Kucherlinsky), giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Katun.
• To the north - the Akkemsky glacier, feeding the Akkem River, also flowing into the Katun.
• From the northeastern slopes flows the Mensu glacier (11 km), giving rise to the Iedygem River.

The Katun Belukha region undoubtedly presents the maximum interest for mountaineering in Altai. The snow-ice cover of the beautiful and varied peaks is replete with routes of all categories.

Powerful icefalls, overhanging masses of snow drifts, deep basal crevasses, the shine of regelation ice, avalanche zones, and the great steepness of the slopes - all this speaks of the difficulties awaiting climbers.

Belukha is one of the most popular peaks among mountaineers in Altai. However, most attempts and successful ascents have been made from the south, from the side of the Katunsky glacier.

To the north, the entire Belukha massif drops off with a sheer, grandiose glaciated wall towards the Akkemsky glacier - this is the most majestic high-mountain panorama of Altai. The length of the wall, which encloses the upper cirque of the Akkemsky glacier in a semi-circle, is about 6–7 km.

The left side of the Akkem Wall (the northern wall of Delone Peak) is turned to the northeast and is free of snow, which does not linger on it. The height of the wall is 1300 m.

The slopes of the Eastern and Western Belukha, 1100 to 1500 meters high, forming the central part of the Akkem Wall, contain many hanging glaciers, which, constantly breaking off downwards, serve as the main source of nourishment for the Akkemsky glacier.

The right side of the Akkem Wall, closing the cirque to the west, are the eastern slopes of the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak. Like the wall of Delone Peak, it is mainly free of snow and drops off with steep buttresses made of black and gray granite (crystalline schists and gneisses).

Of the two most pronounced buttresses:

• The first, located closer to Western Belukha (see photo), is more gentle and leads to the upper part of the Western plateau.

The Western plateau itself is a large, even firn field at an altitude of 4050–4100 m, located to the west of Belukha. It is a rare formation, similar to the Pamir plateau in the area of Peak Kommunizma. The plateau has a rocky base, raised to 4000 m, 3 km long and 2.5 km wide, on which lies a layer of ice 20–25 m thick, covered with firn snow on top.

To the north and west, the plateau drops off with thousand-meter walls. To the east and south, it is bounded by the ridge of Western Belukha and the Myshutaiyry peak, and in the northwest corner of the plateau rises the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak.

In the direction:

• Northwest - the plateau slightly decreases, turning into an icefall - the largest in Altai.
• The XX Let Oktyabrya Peak, contrasting with Belukha, is turned away from the Akkemsky glacier with steep and black ribs, fanning out from the peak in an alpine fan.

The second (central) buttress (see photo) of the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak, dividing two small tributaries of the Akkemsky glacier, is quite gentle in its lower part, and in the upper part turns into a steep rib (60°).

2. Exploration of the Area

The Belukha region became the property of researchers as early as 1835. The first attempt to conquer Belukha itself was made by the famous Altai researcher, Professor Vasily Sapozhnikov of Tomsk University, who climbed to the saddle of Belukha from the south in 1898.

In subsequent years, ascents and research continued:

• In 1933, a group of climbers led by V.M. Abalakova traversed the Eastern Belukha along the northeastern ridge, descending to the Katunsky glacier.
• In 1935, the Siberian mountaineering expedition of the OPTE took place.
• In 1936, the Alekseev group made the first ascent to Western Belukha.
• In 1937, the Alekseev, Mezdrikov, and Belov group made the first ascent to the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak from the Western plateau, descending along the eastern buttress to the Akkemsky glacier. The same group traversed Western Belukha from the Western plateau to the saddle and Eastern Belukha from the Berelsky glacier.
• In 1938, the "Sprint" sports society group ascended Belukha from the south.
• In 1952, the VTsSPS mountaineering expedition took place under the leadership of E.A. Kazakova.
• In 1953, E.A. Kazakova's expedition commemorated the 30th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering. Kazakova ascended both peaks of Belukha from the upper reaches of the Mensu glacier (traversing with a descent to the Myshutaiyry glacier).

Thus, five routes to the Belukha peaks were traversed:

• to the Eastern peak from the south,
• along the northeastern rib,
• along the eastern ridge through the Berelsky peak,
• to the Western peak from the Belukha saddle,
• from the Chyorny glacier through the Western firn plateau,

as well as one first ascent from the south to the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak.

Among the untraversed routes, the northern wall from the Akkemsky glacier side remained the most interesting.

3. Route Justification

The main task set by the group was to traverse the entire Belukha massif from west to east (along the Akkem Wall), which had never been done before. For the ascent to the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak, the central buttress was chosen, which is the most interesting in sporting terms and leads directly to the summit ridge of the peak.

The first buttress also deserves attention. It is less difficult but dangerous in its upper part due to ice falls. Further, the route includes:

• descent to the Western plateau,
• ascent to Western Belukha with descent to the "saddle",
• ascent to Eastern Belukha,
• descent from it through Delone Peak along the northern ridge, traversed only once in 1933 by V. Abalakova's group, to the Akkemsky glacier.

The traverse is interesting due to its diverse relief, including rocky, icy, and snowy sections of great length.

4. Reconnaissance Moves

The group studied the path along the central buttress for 3 days. To familiarize themselves with the rest of the route, the group made an ascent to Eastern Belukha from the Mensu glacier, during which they made a supply drop to Eastern Belukha and examined the descent path from Western Belukha and the descent through Delone Peak.

5. Organizational and Tactical Plans for the Traverse

The group planned to complete the traverse within 10 days in good weather, with three reserve days in case of bad weather.

Two auxiliary groups were organized:

• An observation group under the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak with a radio and binoculars.
• An auxiliary group in the Mensu cirque, which was to observe from Eastern Belukha and, if necessary, make a supply drop to the "saddle" in the second part of the traverse.

1. Climbing Conditions

a) Relief.

The icefalls are complex, highly mobile, with a large height difference. The icefall above the central buttress of the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak has a height difference of 200 m. The route along the central buttress is of a wall type: rocks alternate with steep sections of ice, the upper part is heavily snowed, with cornices, and ends with a 250-meter ice wall.

The summit ridge on the Akkemsky glacier side has steep icy slopes where snow does not linger. This is typical for all ridge routes in the area. At the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak on the Western plateau (4050 m), separating the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak and Western Belukha, as well as on the saddle between Western and Eastern Belukha, huge masses of snow have accumulated.

b) Weather.

In the Belukha area during the summer, the weather is very unstable. Usually, after two days of good weather, precipitation with rain is observed.

At an altitude of 4000 meters, according to Professor Tronov, the temperature does not rise above -4 °C. During bad weather, it drops to -20–25 °C with strong winds and snowfalls. Night temperatures are significantly lower. Over the two months we observed, we noticed a characteristic feature: in the first half of the day, the weather was usually good, and by evening, the cirques were shrouded in fog, and sleet fell.

c) Remoteness from populated areas, exploration of the area.

As mentioned above, the Belukha area is rarely visited by mountaineers because the nearest village is located 76 km along a caravan trail from the weather station on the shore of Nizhne-Akkemskoye Lake. Other approaches to Belukha (from the south and west) are even further from populated areas (100–150 km). However, in recent years, the Belukha area has been frequently visited by tourists.

2. Composition of the Assault Group

3. G.G. Andreev - leader, 1st sports category, mountaineering experience since 1953, post-graduate student.

4. V.F. Menshikov - mountaineering experience since 1959, 1st sports category, student.

5. E.S. Kuznetsov - mountaineering experience since 1959, 1st sports category, teacher.

6. V.P. Dulshansky - mountaineering experience since 1959, 1st sports category, student.

7. Route Progression

(See profile diagram, photographs, and map-table) On July 27, from the base camp located on a flat area on the right bank of the upper Akkemskoye Lake, the assault group, along with the observation group led by G. Shvartsman, set out at 18:00 towards the edge of the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak. The path to the icefall of one of the glaciers flowing from under the wall of the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak passes along the far right moraine, then along small branches of the river born from the Akkemsky glacier, transitions to one of the central moraines on the glacier itself, crosses the main channel of the glacier, and leads to the overnight stop. We move with a maximum load, at a calm pace. At 21:00, we stop for the night. The overnight location is completely safe, convenient, and has many stone slabs that go under the base of the tent.

Glacier condition:

• The glacier is open,
• There were few crevasses on the entire path,
• Everything is easily bypassed,
• The sky is clear, good weather is expected.

July 28: The assault group set out on the traverse at 7:00 from the overnight stop below the icefall near the central buttress. For the first half hour, the approach to the icefall is made without crampons. Then the steepness of the icefall increases to 30–35°, and crampons are put on.

Ropes:

• Andreev - Olshansky,
• Kuznetsov - Menshikov.

The icefall is traversed in 5 hours. From the overnight stop, the route goes to the center of the icefall. Steps are cut, we ascend along an ice crevasse, transitioning to the ridge of the ice section. From the ridge, a very broken, powerful icefall opens up. We pass along narrow snow bridges and ice transitions in the very center of the icefall towards the central buttress.

Very thorough belaying is necessary. The icefall is traversed only in the first half of the day, as afterwards all bridges become unreliable due to rising temperatures. Close to the wall of the left buttress, the route is excluded due to constant serac falls.

The passage in the center of the icefall is 20 m below the surrounding ice ridges, 70–90 m in length. The first participant goes without a backpack to reduce weight. Belay lines are organized (rope - to rope), each rope works for 40 minutes.

Upon exiting the lowered, central part of the icefall onto the ice ridge leading to the snow plateau under the central buttress, we have to overcome an ice wall 80°, 15 m high. The first four ice screws are hammered, the participants' backpacks are separately pulled up. The wall was processed for 1 hour 15 minutes. Along the sharp ice ridge, moving to the right along the way, we exit onto the snow plateau 80–100 m from the wall. The weather worsens in the middle of the day. Snow and sleet fall. Further, the path proceeds to the central buttress along the closed glacier (i.e., along the snow plateau we have reached). We avoid crevasses and after 150 m approach a not very steep 25–30° snow slope leading to the first rocks on the central buttress. Before exiting onto the snow slope, there is a 5-meter ice rise. The first ice screw is hammered, 10 steps are cut.

The transition to rocks is of medium difficulty. The ascent along the rocks is at 40–45° directly. The rocks are made of large slabs, well-preserved. In one place, we hammer 2 rock screws. Some sections are bypassed along the boundary of rocks and snow. Upon exiting onto the ridge itself, there are sections with very destroyed rocks. At 18:00, we exit onto the ridge, ascending along the ridge to the beginning of the snow bridge (clearly visible on the ridge). The rocks are of medium difficulty. Sections with steepness from 30–45°. Between rocky sections - snow-ice rises. The section is traversed almost all the time to the right along the way with transverse belaying.

At the point of the ridge's rise, we build a cairn and leave a note. 1 hour 20 minutes after exiting onto the ridge, we approach the ice knife covered with a layer of snow. At the beginning of this snow-ice knife, there is a fairly gentle area 20 m wide. On one side (to the right along the way), it rises steeply upwards, and on the other, it drops off with a 400 m wall. At this site, we organize the first overnight stay on the ridge. At 20:00, the tent is installed behind snow parapets. For the first day - 10 hours of work. 5 ice and 2 rock screws were hammered. No screws were made on the icefall section due to the constantly changing profile of the icefall.

July 29

The group began the ascent along the rib, rising 1000 m at an overall angle of 60° above the snow bridge. The night was very warm. Rain with sleet, which started at night, ended late in the morning. Therefore, we set out late - at 11:50. The transition from the overnight stop immediately under the steep 50° rocks is possible only along the very sharp top of the bridge and then leads to a snow bridge, fairly reliable, covering a 2 m wide bergschrund, which is overcome with alternate belaying. Further along the ice knife, we exit to rocks. The rocks are of medium difficulty, slab-like (1–2), alternating with small sections of ice. Movement is with alternate belaying through ledges, the first rock screw is hammered.

After 3–4 ropes, due to the increasing difficulty of the rocks, we switch to the left side of the rib along a narrow chimney between the slab and the main massif (2–3). In the chimney, 2 rock screws are hammered, with the first going without a backpack.

Further along the left side of the ridge along ledges and small walls (5–7 m), we exit onto the ridge, the steepness of the rocks increasing to 50°.

The path continues with climbing from one side of the ridge to the other. Belaying is alternate, with many convenient ledges for belaying. On difficult sections, 2 more rock screws are hammered.

The section (3–4) ends with a vertical wall (10 m, 80°), another rock screw is hammered. The wall ends with "fingers" 18 m high (4–5 m), which are taken directly.

After them, the ridge is a horizontal bridge 8 m long. On the bridge - a snow drift.

The time is 18:00, communication with the observation group is according to schedule. During the communication, one rope goes higher for reconnaissance. To the next suitable place for an overnight stay - another 10–12 hours of difficult climbing.

We decide to expand the ledge on the horizontal bridge and organize an overnight stay. It takes 2 hours to set up the bivouac. The site drops off sheer on both sides.

A safety rope is stretched through the tent, and another rope is stretched in front of the tent.

For the day:

• 6 hours of climbing,
• 250 m ascended,
• climbing is strongly hindered by heavy backpacks with a 10-day supply of food,
• 6 rock screws were hammered during the day.

Weather: cloudy, in the second half of the day - without precipitation.

July 30

At 6:00, the group began preparations for departure. Departure at 8:00. Immediately, difficult rocks begin with sections of vertical slabs. As a rule, all rocky walls end with snow drifts, sometimes with small cornices. From the same rope, a rock screw is hammered onto a slab. The first participant goes without a backpack. Section (R5–R6). 4 rock screws were hammered. Belaying is alternate through ledges.

Further (R6–R7):

• Exit to the left along the way.
• Movement along the boundary of ice and rocks with cutting steps.
• Belaying through screws and ledges.

A vertical slab (20 m) is overcome:

• 2 rock screws were hammered.
• Exit to the right (R7–R8) to a small flattening in the ridge.

The ridge is a narrow snow ridge with a steepness of 50° and a small cornice. It is traversed with careful belaying.

Section (R8–R9), steepness 75–80°:

• Rocks are very difficult, covered with snow.
• They have to be dug out from under the adhered snow.
• Cracks under screws are also filled with snow.

In some places, the rocks are covered with regelation ice. 6 rock screws were hammered. This section is traversed without backpacks. Backpacks are pulled up on a rope (at 14:00).

This section ends with an ice wall, from which two slabs protrude, forming a vertical crevice. Having passed this crevice on expansions, we exit under a snow drift.

The first section is crawled under without a backpack along a slab 20 m upwards (steepness 30°) and exits into a gully, where:

• an ice screw is hammered;
• a large hollow is cut for receiving the remaining participants.

Backpacks are swung into the ice gully like a pendulum and pulled up on a rope.

Further along the ice rib with cutting steps (about 15 m) - exit to a sheer "gendarme" (R9–R10). We bypass it on the left along narrow crevices and ledges, cutting through two small cornices. On this section, 3 rock screws are hammered.

At the top of the "gendarme", there is a small sloping site. We expand it by sticking wet snow with stones to a height of up to 1.5 m, i.e., creating a site 1.5×1.5 m. It takes 3 hours to construct it.

At 23:20, we managed to settle into the tent for the night. For the day, we traversed 400 m of difficult rocks in 11 hours of movement. 15 rock and 1 ice screw were hammered during the day.

July 31

In the second half of the night, the weather worsened, and in the morning, snow continued to fall with heavy cloudiness. Departure was postponed several times in the hope of improving the weather. However, we were forced to wait out the weather in the tent.

Decision:

• In case of further deterioration of the weather - descend.
• In case of improvement - continue the assault.

August 1

The weather is excellent in the morning. We began preparations for departure at 6:30 and set out at 8:00. We exit along rocky ledges and a 4-meter crevice, which leads to the ridge (R11–R12). Rocks of medium difficulty alternate with sections of difficult vertical slabs.

The rocks are heavily snowed and icy, so we move quite slowly. Belaying is variable. 3 rock screws are hammered. In difficult places, the first participant moves without a backpack.

3 ropes from the overnight stop, a huge snow-ice knife begins (R12–R13), in the upper part - with a small cornice and ice overhangs. Characteristics of the knife:

• In the lower part - quite very steep, about 50°;
• Then it goes horizontally (length ~40 m);
• Further, the steepness increases again to 60° and rests against a sheer rocky wall.

Ascent onto the knife:

• The first participant first ascends along firm firn;
• Then in 3 takes passes the knife in the upper part;
• Cuts through the cornice, as the further steepness of the knife increases;
• Descends to the other side by 2 m into an ice gully, moving forward to the full length of the 60-meter rope.

In the ice gully, a hollow is cut, and participants are taken on sliding carabiners along the belay line. For organizing the belay line, 1 ice and 1 rock screw are hammered. This section must be passed in the early hours - along firm firn.

Further movement along the ice gully:

• Angle of inclination - 50°;
• Length - 2 ropes (R13–R14);
• Arrangement: cutting steps, hammering another 2 rock and 1 ice screw;
• Exit to rocks.

The passage of this section took 4 hours. To the right of the rocky wall - large cornices, so we exit to the left along rocky ledges, cut through a small cornice above the wall, and exit again onto a snow-ice, winding knife under the ice wall. Having hammered 2 ice screws on this wall, the first participant ascends 5 m and descends down under a "gendarme". Having hammered a rock screw, he takes the remaining participants along the belay line. The passage of this section took another 2 hours (R14–R15). Further along a chimney (R15–R16) with heavily destroyed and snow-filled rocks, we ascend onto a rocky ledge, on which a huge snow "ball" 5 m in diameter is stuck. However, between this "ball" and the rocky wall, there is a crevice through which we can squeeze without backpacks.

Traversing the ledge to the left, we exit into a chimney with heavily snowed and destroyed rocks. The first participant goes up with screw belaying 30 m. The chimney is sheer, heavily filled with snow, so each foothold must be cleared of snow; the upper part of the chimney is negative. The chimney is traversed without backpacks, which are then pulled up on a rope. 5 rock screws are hammered in this chimney.

The chimney ends with a steep firn drift. This chimney is traversed with careful belaying, and in the upper part - by pulling the participant up on a rope.

Further, the steep firn drift leads to a black "gendarme". The time is 19:00. We organize an overnight stay under the "gendarme" in steep ice, cutting out a site 1.5×1 m, having to chip off about 1 m of ice. On the right, the site is limited by the wall of the "gendarme", on the left - by a sheer drop into the chimney, and above the site - a snow-ice wall.

For the day, 250 m of difficult rocky-icy path were traversed. 13 rock and 4 ice screws were hammered. 11 hours of climbing and 2.5 hours were spent on setting up the bivouac. Since 12:00, a snowstorm has not ceased. Dry snow fell in a continuous stream along the walls, spilling over ledges like a waterfall. All ledges were filled with snow. Hands in wet mittens and feet were very cold. Twice we warmed up our socks and rubbed our feet with alcohol. In the evening at the overnight stay - a thunderstorm, all metal equipment is lowered down on a rope.

August 2

Departure at 7:30 in the morning. The path upwards through the black "gendarme" is unacceptable, as it leads to a steep snow-ice ridge with cornices, resting again against a sheer "gendarme", above which there is another steep snow-ice ridge leading under the summit cornice.

The only path is to bypass the entire wall of the "gendarme" to the left and then exit onto the left wall. In the middle part, sections of smoothed rocks protrude from the ice, and above, to the left, the rocks are completely smooth and sheer. The fallen snow has frozen, and it is possible to move along the ice wall by cutting steps to a depth of 25–30 cm.

From the overnight stay, we move along an ice ledge onto the ice wall in the direction of the rocky sections protruding from the ice (R16–R17). First, we traverse to the side for one rope. 2 rock screws are hammered. Along the belay line, the entire group approaches the rocky "island", then upwards. The steepness of the slope is 60–75°. Movement is upwards along snow and protruding rocks. Another 1 rock and 1 ice screw are hammered. The snow is loose, especially poorly holding near rocks. Movement upwards is very slow.

A particularly difficult section when exiting onto the upper section of this rocky "island" (R17), steepness 55°:

• on smooth stones, there are almost no cracks;
• regelation ice under the snow flakes off when hammering ice screws.

Great clarity of movement and caution are necessary. It takes 3 hours to overcome this section. The weather is bad: heavy snowstorm, and the frost has intensified. From above, snow continuously flows in a stream.

Further, the path is upwards, slightly to the left, to the next group of rocks (R18). The first participant goes forward without a backpack on crampons for 60 m of rope, making steps in snow drifts in some places, and cutting steps in others - about 40 m. 4 ice screws are hammered. At the exit to the rocks - section (R18) - 2 rock screws are hammered. Participants are pulled up along the belay line. The last one with two backpacks is pulled up. It takes 3.5 hours to overcome the section (R17–R18).

Movement to the left along the rocks is impossible due to their great steepness and smoothness. From the rocky section (R18), again upwards to a large black rock strongly protruding from the ice (R19). The first participant goes without a backpack on crampons, first on the front teeth, then with cutting steps (about 35 cm), exits to the black stone. The steepness of the ice here increases to 70°. Every meter, ice screws have to be hammered with cutting large hollows (9 screws). Having ascended to the upper edge of the stone, where the steepness decreases slightly to 55°, he takes the remaining participants along the belay line into a large step cut in the ice in 3.5 hours. The section is very difficult. It was planned to ascend to the ice "pennant" (R20) on this day, but we were unable to do so due to the great difficulty of the ice section. It got dark. Strong wind with a blizzard, frost about -10 °C. We decided to organize an overnight stay. For the overnight stay, we cut out a step so that the snow flying from above would fly over the upper edge without touching our heads. We climbed into the tent like into a bag, sitting on the step, tied ourselves to the belay line, which we secured on 7 ice screws.

This was the most difficult day of the ascent. For the day:

• 14 ice screws were hammered during movement,
• 5 rock screws,
• 11 hours of work,
• 2 hours to set up the bivouac.

It should be noted that with less snow cover, this entire section would be icy, and its difficulty would increase somewhat.

August 3

At 10:00, we set out on the route. The first participant directly from the overnight stay goes up the ice wall towards the snow pass (R20), which leads under a cornice (R21). However, the exit along the pass is very complex. It is necessary to cut large steps along the entire length of 2.5 ropes, while the remaining participants sit in a hollow, protecting themselves from falling ice fragments. The frost intensified, snow continues to fall, and there is occasional fog. After 5.5 hours, the first participant reaches the pass, but the exit to it is complicated - an ice wall 4 m high and about 80° steep. It is overcome with the help of ice screws and ladders. The pass turns out to be in the form of a sharp snow-ice ridge with sheer ice overhangs. Having expanded the site to 1 m at the top, he takes the remaining participants along the belay line. Severe frost and wet clothing do not allow passing this section quickly. It takes 9 hours to overcome this section, and 9 ice screws are hammered. Having expanded the site by chipping off ice, we organize an overnight stay, also tying ourselves to ice screws.

August 4

Due to the heavy load on the previous days, we slept well at night, waking up only at 9:00. Excellent weather and bright sun. The snow turned out to be very loose and soft, the steps were very unreliable, and there were no other types of belaying, such as through an ice axe on a snow ridge. All this forced the group to wait at the overnight stay until the sun (at 15:00) hid behind the ridge and the snow would be gripped by the evening frost. This time was used to dry our clothes. At 18:00, we set out on the route. The snow "pennant" leading under the large cornice is narrow and itself has 2 cornices. The first participant first goes in 3 takes without a backpack to the cornices. The cornices are in the form of vertical drifts of porous, frozen firn. Here, 2 screws are hammered. A horizontal step is cut in them at a distance of 10 m, and further along a steep snow slope (45°), he exits under the cornice, taking participants along the belay line. The cornice is mostly turned to the east, decreasing in size to the west. Under the base of the cornice is a convenient snow ledge; traversing along the ledge to the left for 20 m, we approach the narrowest place on the cornice. Having cut a niche in the snow parapet, we exit onto the main and summit ridge of the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak at 21:00. Having dug a wide snow site in the snow, we settle in for the night for the first time in many days.

August 5

The further path from the ridge to the summit of the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak passes through a steep snow-ice section, which is the slope of the upper part of the buttress. From the overnight stay, the group set out at 8:30. For two ropes, the group traverses from the cornice to the rise along a relatively gentle section (R22–R23). Then the route goes with a slight ascent and simultaneous traversing of the slope.

On the section (R23–R24), there is ice. Steps are cut. The length is 150–200 m. 8 ice screws are hammered. The steepness in some places reaches 50°. On the section (R24–R25), we move not far from the cornice line. The snow holds well. It is possible to move with alternate belaying. Section (R24–R25) - 150 m. From the depression, an ascent begins to the ridge directly leading to the summit of the XX Let Oktyabrya Peak. The ascent is made in the direction of rocks, spotted on the general white background. To the left of these rocks, the ascent is excluded due to cornices of great power. At 12:30, we exit onto the ridge leading to the summit. From point (R23) - 130–140 m: 1 ice screw. The ridge drops off on one side to the right tributary of the Myshutaiyry glacier, and on the other, it slopes more gently onto the Western plateau. We move along the very top of the ridge, occasionally avoiding cornices. As we approach the summit, the ridge descends, forming a pre-summit bridge with a flat, wide part; we exited onto the bridge at 15:00.

According to the description of 1937, there should be a cairn here (built by the Mezdrikov and Alekseev group). Unfortunately, the relief, changed over 26 years, did not allow us to find the note, despite 1.5 hours of searching for the cairn. We leave our note in the cairn (R27), built on the right rocks on the saddle. The note is placed in a paper sleeve from a rocket, wrapped in cellophane, and then inserted into a mug.

These rocks begin the ridge oriented to the west. From the cairn, it is necessary to traverse along a snow slope (30°) for 200–250 m.

The summit ridge has the following features:

• Consists of orange rocks.
• Snow terracing.
• On the northern side - an orange rocky wall.
• Snow steps about 150 m high and 3°.

We began the descent at 17:00 and approached the ridge at 19:00, traversing along the ridge parallel to the Western Belukha ridge, and stopped for the night opposite the black rocks on this ridge (R29).

The plateau is covered with snow. There were no crevasses.

The whole day was sunny. At night, a hurricane-force wind blew, which is generally characteristic of the plateau. For the day:

• 8 hours of movement,
• 9 ice screws were hammered.

August 6, 1953

The weather worsened again overnight. The night was windy and frosty. In the morning, thick fog did not allow the group to continue moving, as it was possible to get into an icefall.

The fog lasted until 15:00. As soon as visibility appeared, we set out from the overnight stay. The Western plateau consists of 2 tiers:

• The upper step adjoins the slope of Western Belukha,
• 30–40 meters below, a more extensive second part stretches to the west - the Western plateau itself.

The eastern part of the entire plateau is heavily cut by crevasses.

The route passes almost to