6. Bronya 3260 m

ASCENT CERTIFICATE for Peak XX let Oktyabrya via the NE edge

1. Class — technical
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge
3. XX let Oktyabrya, 4280 m, via the NE edge
4. 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 850 m, total length of the edge 1900 m, average steepness of the edge 40°
6. Pitons driven (for belaying only): rock — 3, bolt — 0, chocks — 0, ice — 31.
7. Climbing hours — 10
8. Overnight stops on the route — 1 (bivouac)
9. Team leader — Meshkov Igor Nikolaevich, Master of Sports

1. Class of ascent — rock
2. Re­gion of as­cent, ridge — Al­tai, Katunsky Belki ridge
3. Peak, its height, route of as­cent, na­ture of route: peak XX let Oktyabrya, 4167 m, via cen­tral coun­ter­fort from Ak-kem gla­cier, com­bined
4. Es­ti­mated dif­fi­culty cat­egory — (5a)
5. Main char­ac­ter­is­tics of route: height dif­fer­ence — 1267 m, length of 5th cat. dif­fi­culty sec­tions — 400 m, av­er­age steep­ness 57°
6. Pitons ham­mered: rock and stop­pers — 55, ice screws — 40, bol­lard pitons — none
7. Num­ber of trav­el hours — 10

XX-act OK-tropk

Section R0–R1. Crossing a not very high bergschrund along the southern snowy slope, in some places along rock shelves, exit to a snowy pad. Control tour. Section R1–R2 · 200 m along crumbling rocks and snowy slopes with a total steepness up to 50°. Section R2–R3 · The first gendarme is passed on the left along the wall 55°. Convenient crevices for running belay. Section R3–R4: Rocks of medium difficulty along the counterscarp ridge. Section R5–R6: Rocks filled with ice. In some places, snowy overhangs and cornices. In the upper part of the section, the second gendarme is passed on the left. Section R5–R6: Ice ridge with rock outcrops.

¹

Passport

I. Ice and Snow Climb Category 2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge, Akkem gorge 3. Peak XX let Oktyabrya (4167 m) via the left edge of the southeast wall of the central counterfort, combined route 4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1167 m, total length - 1800 m. Length of the wall section - 1300 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section - 61° (3000-4050 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock 23, chocks 65, ice screws 27. 7. Climbing hours: 11, days - 1.

II. Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Katunsky ridge. 3. Peak 20 let Oktyabrya, 4188 m, via the right part of the E. wall. 4. Complexity category 6A, third ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1100 m, length of 6A–6B category sections — 300 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°/3100–4100 m. 6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

1. CLASS — first ascent
2. REGION — Altai
3. PEAK — XX let Oktyabrya, left buttress of the eastern wall, 4167 m.
4. CATEGORY — proposed 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. ELEVATION GAIN — 1200 m, LENGTH — 1500 m, LENGTH OF 6B cat. diff. sections — 425 m, AVERAGE STEEPNESS OF MAIN SECTIONS 70° (920 m), including 6 cat. diff. (75 m) 80°.
6. PITS (for passage / for belay) rock — 12 / 130, bolt — 1 / 6, chocks — 3 / 18, ice — 8.
7. CLIMBING HOURS: 55; CLIMBING DAYS: 5.
8. OVERNIGHT STAYS:

5р. 529, № 9 22/XI–83 55 п/м Петрашко

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area

I. Climbing Object

The peak XX let Oktyabrya is located next to the Belukha massif and to the right closes the so-called Akkemskaya wall. To the northeast of the peak stand out pronounced pre-summit gendarmes, one of which is reached by the route taken by the team. Further to the northeast, the ridge leads to the peaks:

• Urusvati,
• Yu. Rerikh,
• N. Rerikh. To the southwest of the peak is a snow-firn plateau adjacent to Western Belukha. The overall orientation of the peak massif is northeast-southwest. In June-August. The climate in the climbing area in June-August is mostly rainy. According to long-term observations, the most favorable weather for climbing is in March and September. Unfavorable climatic conditions, inaccessibility, and relatively low altitude of the area determine the low attendance of the area. Although it should be noted that the area is promising in terms of the presence of interesting "unclimbed" routes and peaks up to 4200 m high. The path to the described route starts from Barnaul, through Gorno-Altaisk, Ust-Koksa, which can be reached by plane on a local airline. From Ust-Koksa to Tyungur, there is a bus (84 km). From Tyungur to Akkem Lake, you can only get by pack transport on a mountain trail, having previously overcome a forested pass on a mountain taiga road. This 58 km path is traveled with pack transport in three days. The second option is a helicopter, but due to prolonged bad weather, it can be expected for 10 days. We crossed the pass to Akkem valley from Kucherlinskoe Lake by geologists' car to the "kosh". Then all the cargo was carried to Akkem Lake on foot for 5 hours (in 3 trips) as we were unable to obtain horses due to the field work in the kolkhoz. However, we got excellent acclimatization.