Karatash 4A via North wall V. Kozhin 1956

Between 1990 and 1999, the author climbed all existing routes marked on the map on Karatash peak. During the first ascent of the SE couloir of the NE ridge on October 18, 1990, by a group consisting of:

• Afanasyev A.,
• Arshavsky N.,
• Malashchenko A.,
• Mishkov A.,
• Shilkin E. a note was found dated October 1, 1969, from a group consisting of Mitrokhin Yu.I., Chugulin Yu., Mikhin V.A., Sharafutdinov. Later, on July 25, 1998, an ascent was made along the NE buttress, where signs of previous ascents were found in some places:
• a platform on a talus shelf,
• a rock hook,

Ascent Certificate

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.2.
2. Peak Karatash 3535 m, via North-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category 4A, variant.
4. The route is rocky in nature.
5. Height difference 1100 m, length 2500 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and placement 50, ice 2.
7. Team's travel time 18 hours, 2 days.
8. One overnight stay: cold, lying down. Team Leader: Afanasiev A.E. MS

v. Karatash

3510 m

Report

Teams from Tomsk Region (TFA)

on the first ascent of the route on v. Karatash via the north-eastern counterfort of the north-eastern ridge "4A" (rocky) Participants: Temerev I.M. Karpitskiy E.V. Tomsk — 2004

Ascent Log

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, 3535 m, via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed category: 4B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 1100 m, length: 2500 m, average steepness of the main part: 60°.
6. Pitons used: 50 rock and nut.
7. Climbing hours: 18, days: 2.
8. Leader: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports Participants:

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Class — rock, route character — combined.
2. Region — Altai, Aktru gorge.
3. Peak Karatash, via N. side, western glacier "Tronov's pants".
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 975 m, length — 1400 m length of sections with V and VI category of difficulty — 195 m average steepness — 50°, average steepness of the main part (icefall) — 90°, 120 m.

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Class — rock, route character — combined.
2. Region — Altai, Aktru gorge.
3. Mt. Karatash, via N slope, western glacier "Tronov's pants".
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 975 m, length — 1400 m length of sections with V and VI category of difficulty — 195 m average steepness — 50°, average steepness of main part (icefall) — 90°, 120 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area — Altai, Aktru gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
2. Name of the peak: Karatash, via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — combined.
5. Height difference of the route — 940 m. Route length — 1230 m. Length of sections with 5 and 6 category of difficulty — 305 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route — 61°
• entire route — 50°

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area — Altai, Aktru valley.
2. Name of the peak: Karatash, via the center of the north face.
3. 6A category of difficulty, 3rd ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — 1030 m. Route length — 1298 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty – 195 m, VI category of difficulty – 255 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 73°, total route — 59°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted pitons — 0, including artificial aids — 0; removable bolted pitons — 2, including artificial aids — 2.

Traverse Korumdu - Aktru 4A cat.

Approach from Aktru base in Ak-Su gorge - 3 - 2.5 hours. The beginning of the route is the exit to the ridge of the Korumdu massif (orographic left ridge in the Ak-Su valley). Recommended exit to the ridge at the border of the greenery with the scree. Movement along the 2-kilometer destroyed scree ridge with numerous small gendarmes is not difficult and does not require insurance. There are at least three places for overnight stays on the ridge (with platforms for tents). The penultimate gendarme on the rocky part of the ridge is overcome along a crack with hook insurance (1 rope). After bypassing the last gendarme, there is a descent to the left to a small blue lake, after which the main, complex combined part of the route begins. At the lake, at the subsequent two snow-ice pockets of the ridge, there are convenient places for overnight stays. The main ice ascent (4 ropes - 40°) is overcome with a slight traverse to the right. In the left part, rockfall is possible from the rocks located above, even in the morning hours. After exiting onto the snowy ridge and a short ice ascent (1 rope) - exit to the firn field of the ridge, approaching from the right. Further movement is to the left: first along the snow, then along the steep firn (3 ropes). A relatively small rocky gendarme is bypassed on the right, then:

Ascent

The ascent to v. Krasavitsa via the northern wall (approximately 3A category of difficulty) was made by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition. GROUP COMPOSITION

1. Kuznetsov N. A. 2nd sports category
2. Bondarchuk N. M. Master of Sports
3. Luzhetsky B. N. Master of Sports
4. Makeev V. P. CMS
5. Morgachev V. N. 1st sports category
6. Fedorov V. A. 1st sports category Group Leader: KUZNETSOV N. A.