Ascent Passport

1 Region — Altai Republic, North Chuya Range 2 Peak — Kyzyltash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall 3 Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent. 4 Route characteristics — ice and snow. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain of the main part 480 m, route length — 740 m. length of sections

• 5th category of difficulty — 110 m.
• 4th category of difficulty — 190 m average steepness of the main part 55°

6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 74

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit of Kyzyl-Tash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall. Presumably 4B category of difficulty. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrey Vladimirovich Team members: Kulishova Alena Maratovna Pintusov Anton Nikolaevich Syutkin Andrey Leonidovich

Ascent Details

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KZYLTASH VIA THE ROUTE "Icefall on the NW slope (from the left)" 4A category of complexity BY THE TEAM (RFSOO "FAiS NSO") FOR THE PERIOD FROM NOVEMBER 5 TO NOVEMBER 5, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports category of the leader	Shepelev Vladimir Aleksandrovich 1st sports category
1.2	Full name, sports category of the participants	Glazachev Danila Vyacheslavovich 2nd sports category; Mikhailov Artem Vyacheslavovich 2nd sports category
1.3	Full name of the coach	Sokolov G. A.

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Altai, Maashey gorge.
3. V. Maashey, via the northern wall.
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain — 1125 m. Length 1510 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 150 m. Average steepness of the main part — 55°.
6. Pitons used: ice screws — 167; rock and placement pitons — 11.
7. Team's travel time — 21 hours, days — 2.

39

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN THE CLASS OF "TECHNICALLY COMPLEX" CLIMBS Peak MaaShey-Bash via the northwest wall. Altai. (5B + 1 - approximately) Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Soviet State. Team of the Leningrad City Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the RSFSR. 1967.

1. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the climb object.

Peak MaaShey-Bash (4200 m) is the highest point of the North-Chuya mountain node ("Bish-Murdu"), one of the most picturesque regions of Mountainous Altai. The node is formed by the North-Chuya ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction between the rivers Chuya to the north, Karagem and Chegan-Uzun to the south. The MaaShey-Bash massif is located in the western part of the ridge. Its northern slopes give rise to the MaaShey glacier, the second longest in Altai (10 km). The MaaShey-Yul river flows out of the glacier and runs north until it meets the Chuya. To the east of MaaShey, the North-Chuya ridge is composed of the peaks Karagem, Bars, Tamma, Burvestnik, UPI, and Snezhnaya. The northern spur of the ridge at peak Burvestnik separates the MaaShey and Ak-Tru glaciers. MaaShey-Bash drops to the north with severe walls that capture the attention of climbers. The classified route (4B) to the summit follows the northern ridge, which separates the Left and Central MaaShey glaciers. Routes on the northeast wall (snow and ice, with small rocky outcrops) are objectively hazardous due to the hanging snow cornices above. Their formation is likely facilitated by heavy precipitation and strong southwest winds this year.

Russian Championship in Alpinism

rock climbing category

Report

on the ascent to Maashey peak 4173 m via NW wall (P. Budanova) CTMGV 1.70 of the Rubtsovsk Sports Committee team Team Leader: Sergeev V.P. Coach: Drakin A.V. 1997 Rubtsovsk Sports Committee:

Ascent Passport

1. Area, gorges: Severo-Chuysky ridge, Altai.
2. Name of the summit: Mashey (N), route name: via the right buttress of the NW wall.
3. Proposed: 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 680 m. Route length: 890 m. Length of sections with V category of complexity: 330 m. VI category of complexity: 70 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 58°. Total route steepness: 73°.
6. Elements used on the route:
   • Anchor pitons — 9
   • Chocks — 63

V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south. A.V. Altai. May 8, 1991

Passport

1. Class — snow-ice.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south.
4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1650 m, length 10 km (from the base camp at GMS Aktru).
6. Moving time 7 hours.
7. The ascent was made by a team of two. Drakin A.V. CMS.

Passport

1.2. North-Chuya Range, Aktru gorge. EXISTING: "1.2.54 Radistov (V) 3750 1B from the south via Akturu couloir. A. Drakin, 91"

Proposed Reclassification of the Route

1.2.54 Radistov (V) 3523 2A category of difficulty to the south couloir of the eastern ridge Note: height (3522.7) - according to the published map M 1:50000. Altitude difference according to the group's altimeter: 3550–2930 = 620 m. Route length – 1,200 m (estimated); including category III difficulty – 290 m up to 40°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°. Used in total for the ascent: ice screws – 6 rock stoppers and rock pitons — none

Passport

1.2. North Chuya Range, Aktru gorge. Radistov (E) 3523 via the left part of the northern slope of the eastern ridge. Proposed: Category 2B difficulty, first ascent. Route character: ice-snow. Note: height (3522.7) - according to the published online map M 1:50 000. Altitude difference according to the group's altimeter: 3530–2940 = 590 m. Route length – 1100 m (estimated); including: Category III difficulty – 140 m up to 50°. Average steepness of the route – 33°.