North Chuya Range

Mountain range4,049.88 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent of category 3B route to the summit of Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the icy slope of the northwestern wall.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT, ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KZYLTASH 3486 M VIA THE ICE SLOPE OF THE EASTERN PART OF THE NORTH-WEST WALL, CATEGORY 3B COMPLEXITY FOR THE PERIOD MAY 4, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderKarlin Sergey Fedorovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full Name, sports rank of participantsParticipants: Tokareva Margarita Andreevna — 2nd sports rank, Tokarev Vitaly Viktorovich — 2nd sports rank, Khabarov Dmitry Alexandrovich — 3rd sports rank, Ryabinin Viktor Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank, Polivaeva Daria Andreevna — 3rd sports rank
1.3Full Name, sports rank of the leaderMakarov Oleg Nikolaevich CMS
1.4Full Name, sports rank of participantsParticipants: Melekhov Mikhail Gennadievich — 3rd sports rank, Kharitonov Sergey Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank
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Report on the first ascent of the route category 1Б to the summit Yubileynaya (3403 m) from the Container pass in Altai.

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit Yubileynaya from the Container pass, category 1B, by the team of the Sports club of alpinists "Voshozhdenie" (Barnaul) on May 3, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderLezhnev Anton Petrovich, CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsBelov Petr Viktorovich, 3rd sports rank
Volkov Anton Leonidovich, 3rd sports rank
Zanina Natalia Nikolaevna, 2nd sports rank
Korobko Tatyana Vitalievna, 3rd sports rank
Malyshkin Vladimir Alexandrovich, 3rd sports rank
Pechyonkina Lyudmila Nikolaevna, 3rd sports rank
Shubin Alexander Yurievich, 3rd sports rank
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Climbing route description (Category 1B difficulty) to Yubileynaya Peak (3403 m) in the North Chuya Range via the south-eastern couloir of the north-eastern ridge.

1.2.114

Passport

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktru gorge.

Peak Yubileynaya 3403: via south-eastern couloir of north-eastern ridge

Proposed: Category 1B difficulty, first ascent Route type: combined Note: height (3403.2) — according to the published online map M 1:50000 Altitude difference according to group's altimeter: 3400–2940 = 460 m. Route length: couloir — 500 m (estimated), ridge — 450 m (estimated), total — 950 m (estimated), including Category I difficulty section — 180 m from 45° to 60°. Average steepness of the entire route — 30° (estimated).

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"First ascent of a 6A cat. difficulty route via the southern wall of Pik Einstein 3900m in Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Abyl-Oyuk gorge."

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical climb.
  2. Altai, North-Chuysky Range, Abyl-Oyuk gully.
  3. Einstein Peak 3900 m. Central part of the South Face.
  4. Route 6A category of difficulty (approx.) First ascent of the route.
  5. Route height difference: 800 m (wall base 3100 m – summit 3900 m). Route length 900 m.
  6. Length of the wall part of the route 760 m (height difference 710 m). Bastion: length 600 m (height difference 560 m).
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Description of the ascent route to the summit, made in 2014, with photos and details of the hike.

2014

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A description of a solo ascent to the summit of Lyzhnik (3680 m) via the north-eastern wall in the Central Altai.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class of ascent: Sports
  2. Region of ascent, ridge: Central Altai North-Uysky ridge
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Lyzhnika 3680 m via north-eastern wall 10 V category
  4. Required difficulty category: 3A
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Height difference: 1180 m
    • Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty: 90 m
    • Average steepness: 50–60°
  6. Number of protection points: Sports
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Ascent of Einstein Peak via the North-East Wall (3A grade). A group of Altai climbers completed the route in 16 hours.

Ascent

To Einstein Peak via the North-Eastern wall (approximately category 3A difficulty) Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition.

Group Members

  1. Bunyaeva V.S. 2nd sports category
  2. Tolmachev V.V. 1st sports category
  3. Kalachev V.V. Candidate Master of Sports
  4. Sannikov A.I. 2nd sports category Group Leader: BUNYAEVA V.S.

Route Description

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Description of the first ascent of a combined route of 3B category of complexity on UpI peak (3603 m) via the right part of the NW slope.

UPI Peak

3603 m

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Report of the Kemerovo Region team (FACO) on the ascent to UPI Peak via the right part of the NW slope "3B", (k)

Participants:

Gette V.M. Zubkov A.Yu.

Ascent Passport

  1. North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley.
  2. UPI Peak, via the right part of the NW slope.
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Report on the passage of a 4A category difficulty route to the summit UPI via an ice gully along the rocky counterfort of the NW slope.

V. UPI

3603 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on completing the ascent to v. UPI via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope "4A" (k)

Participants

Temerev I.M. Lizin I.S.

ASCENT DETAILS:

  1. North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley, 102
  2. Peak UPI, via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope.
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Ascent of p. UPI via the centre of NW slope, a new ice route of 2B category of complexity, Altai Mountains, Severo-Chuysky Range.

  1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
  2. v. UPI, center of the NW slope.
  3. route 2B cat. sl., first ascent is proposed.
  4. Nature of the route: ice.
  5. Height difference of the route — 500 m. Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections:
  • 2 cat. sl. — 550 m.
  • 3 cat. sl. — 450 m. Average steepness:
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