Russian Championship in Alpinism

rock climbing category

Report

on the ascent to Maashey peak 4173 m via NW wall (P. Budanova) CTMGV 1.70 of the Rubtsovsk Sports Committee team Team Leader: Sergeev V.P. Coach: Drakin A.V. 1997 Rubtsovsk Sports Committee:

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REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN THE CLASS OF "TECHNICALLY COMPLEX" CLIMBS Peak MaaShey-Bash via the northwest wall. Altai. (5B + 1 - approximately) Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Soviet State. Team of the Leningrad City Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the RSFSR. 1967.

1. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the climb object.

Peak MaaShey-Bash (4200 m) is the highest point of the North-Chuya mountain node ("Bish-Murdu"), one of the most picturesque regions of Mountainous Altai. The node is formed by the North-Chuya ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction between the rivers Chuya to the north, Karagem and Chegan-Uzun to the south. The MaaShey-Bash massif is located in the western part of the ridge. Its northern slopes give rise to the MaaShey glacier, the second longest in Altai (10 km). The MaaShey-Yul river flows out of the glacier and runs north until it meets the Chuya. To the east of MaaShey, the North-Chuya ridge is composed of the peaks Karagem, Bars, Tamma, Burvestnik, UPI, and Snezhnaya. The northern spur of the ridge at peak Burvestnik separates the MaaShey and Ak-Tru glaciers. MaaShey-Bash drops to the north with severe walls that capture the attention of climbers. The classified route (4B) to the summit follows the northern ridge, which separates the Left and Central MaaShey glaciers. Routes on the northeast wall (snow and ice, with small rocky outcrops) are objectively hazardous due to the hanging snow cornices above. Their formation is likely facilitated by heavy precipitation and strong southwest winds this year.

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Altai, Maashey gorge.
3. V. Maashey, via the northern wall.
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain — 1125 m. Length 1510 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 150 m. Average steepness of the main part — 55°.
6. Pitons used: ice screws — 167; rock and placement pitons — 11.
7. Team's travel time — 21 hours, days — 2.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KZYLTASH VIA THE ROUTE "Icefall on the NW slope (from the left)" 4A category of complexity BY THE TEAM (RFSOO "FAiS NSO") FOR THE PERIOD FROM NOVEMBER 5 TO NOVEMBER 5, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports category of the leader	Shepelev Vladimir Aleksandrovich 1st sports category
1.2	Full name, sports category of the participants	Glazachev Danila Vyacheslavovich 2nd sports category; Mikhailov Artem Vyacheslavovich 2nd sports category
1.3	Full name of the coach	Sokolov G. A.

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit of Kyzyl-Tash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall. Presumably 4B category of difficulty. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrey Vladimirovich Team members: Kulishova Alena Maratovna Pintusov Anton Nikolaevich Syutkin Andrey Leonidovich

Ascent Details

Ascent Passport

1 Region — Altai Republic, North Chuya Range 2 Peak — Kyzyltash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall 3 Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent. 4 Route characteristics — ice and snow. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain of the main part 480 m, route length — 740 m. length of sections

• 5th category of difficulty — 110 m.
• 4th category of difficulty — 190 m average steepness of the main part 55°

6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 74

Ascent Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Akturu valley, section 1.
2. Kzyl-Tash peak, 3486 m, via the right ridge of the South slope.
3. Proposed category 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 1200 m, length — 3000 m, average slope — 30°, steepest section — 55°.
6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 15.
7. Team's total climbing hours — 12 hours.
8. Leader — Afanasiev A.E., Master of Sports. Team members — Salin A.V., 1st sports category, Kuznetsova T.Yu., 2nd sports category.

Ascent Certificate

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Aktru gorge, section 1.2.
2. Kzyl-Tash peak 3486 m, via the middle ridge of the Southern slope.
3. Proposed category: 3A.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference 900 m, length 1400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 40°.
6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 15 pieces.
7. Team's travel time 8 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Leader: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports

1.2. North Chuya Range, Aktru gorge

Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the North slope of the Southwest ridge

Proposed category: 3B, first ascent Route type: snow-ice. Note: height (3486.4) is as per the published 1:50,000 map available on the Internet. Altitude difference as per the group's altimeter: 520 m Route length — 900 m (estimated); including 400 m of category 3 difficulty, between 45° to 50° Average steepness of the entire route — 35° Equipment used on the ascent: 12 ice screws, no rock pitons or stoppers (no protection left behind) Climbing hours on July 16, 2005: from Aktru alpine camp (2100 m) to Uchyitel' pass (3100 m) — 1.5 h (4:00–5:30),

V. Kzyl-Tash via Uchetel' Pass, cat. 3

From the lower building of Aktru weather station, ascend via a wide couloir, along its right side on an old trail in the direction of Uchetel' Pass. The ascent to the north-eastern ridge of Uchetel' Pass takes 1–1.5 hours. Move along the easy ridge in the direction of the summit for 30–40 minutes until the first difficult sections, before which it is necessary to rope up. Continue in rope teams, moving alternately or simultaneously with protection via rock outcrops. On the ridge, several gendarmes are encountered, which can be bypassed:

• to the right,
• on snow,
• on rock ledges. The north-eastern ridge ends with a 40-meter wall with an inside corner, which leads to the south-eastern summit ridge (2–2.5 hours). The inside corner, the key section of the route, is covered with ice. It is climbed with thorough piton protection. Further movement proceeds mainly along the left part of the south-eastern ridge. The last gendarme before the summit is bypassed to the right on snow. The ascent to the summit tower is on the right side of the tower (2–2.5 hours). Descent from the summit is via route 1B, cat. 3, to Konteyner Pass. Descent time is 3–3.5 hours.