Ergaki
Route Description: карнизам С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent to the summit Chernaya 1915 m via the North wall in the Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan, 6B category of difficulty.
gorge
- v. Chernaya 1915 m, via the cornices of the Northern wall, 2004 (first ascent) difficulty category
- Team leader: Devi M.M.
- Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain range, Taygishonok river
- Section in the classification
22nd Open Championship
of Russia in Alpinism
2004
Rock Climbing Class
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the "Blackbird" route, category 6A, via the center of the northern wall of the peak Chernyaya (1915 m) in winter.
Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai
KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION
Russian Championship in Alpinism
2016
High-Altitude Technical Class
Report
On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team On Verchina Chernaya, 1915 m, via the center of the N wall, route "Chernaya Drozda" First ascent, orient. 6Az cat. diff. (First winter ascent in this area on the Taigishon wall) Krasnoyarsk 2016
Route Description: левой части В стены и ЮВ кф.
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the 4A category route to Ptitsa peak in the Western Sayan Mountains, Ergaki ridge, by the Barnaul alpine club "Voshozhdenie" team on July 29, 2020.
Report
on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Ptitsa via the left part of the eastern wall and the southeast buttress, category 4A, by the team of the "Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club (Barnaul) on July 29, 2020
I. Climbing Report
| № p.p. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Lezhnev Anton Petrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the team members | Trufanov Maxim Sergeevich, Candidate for Master of Sports |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Guselnikov Vitaly Mikhailovich, Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | "Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Pik Dinosaur via the NW wall, 6A category of complexity, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai in October 2020.
Report
On the first ascent to Dinosaur Peak via the NW wall, 6Az category of difficulty, by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai (REDFOXTEAM) from October 11 to 15, 2020.
I. Climbing Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich — Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Ivanov Timofey Pavlovich — Candidate for Master of Sports |
Route Description: З стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent made by a team from the 5th Center for Training and Sports to the top of Golova Sayan via the West Face route rated as category 3A.
Report
On ascending to the summit of Golova Sayana via the W. wall, 3A cat. diff. by team 5 of the training center for military-sports training on June 16, 2020.
I. Ascent Passport
| №№ p.p. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Shirnin Viktor Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank. Shustov Anton Mikhailovich, 2nd sports rank. |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich |
| 1.4 | Organization | 5th training center for military-sports training |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: левой части Ю стены
SSummitMateReport on the passage of a Category III route on the left part of the southern wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in Ergaki, Western Sayan.
Report
on the ascent to the summit Zvezdny, 2265 m via the left part of the South wall, 5B, cat. diff. Second passage by the team Moscow–St. Petersburg On July 7, 2021
I. Ascent Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Balagurin S.O. (CMS) |
Route Description: левой части Ю стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of category 5B route on the left side of the southern wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in Ergaki.
Siberian Federal District Climbing Championship
High-Altitude Technical Class 2018
Report
on the ascent to Zvezdny peak, 2265 m via the left part of the South wall, 5B category of complexity. First ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk on July 19, 2018
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Prokofiev D.E. (MS) |
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of a route through the center of the North face of Ptitsa (2221 m) peak in Ergaki, category 5B.
Russian Championship in Alpinism
High-Technical Class 2021
Report on the Ascent to Ptitsa Peak, 2221 meters.
Via the center of the North wall, 5B category of complexity. First ascent by the Krasnoyarsk team on July 23, 2021.
| I. Passport of the Ascent 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Kozlova A.P. (MS) |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Seryupova D.R. (MS) |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Prokofiev D.E. (MS), Zakharov N.N. (MSMK), Balezin V.V. (MSMK) |
Route Description: Через полку З гребня
SSummitMateDescription of a new Category IIIB route to Zerkalny Peak in the Ergaki Range, Western Sayan Mountains, with a detailed breakdown of the stages and equipment used.
Passport
- Rock climbing category
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
- Zerkalny peak, via the western ridge shelf.
- Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference – 280 m. Total length – 340 m. Average slope of the entire route – 45°. Crux slope – 70–75°. Length of sections with IV, V category of difficulty – 75–80 m.
- Equipment used on the route: Fifi hooks – 2 pcs., anchor pitons – 7 pcs., stoppers – 8 pcs., cams – 30 pcs.
- Climbing hours: 12, days: 1.
Route Description: Камину Ю стены
SSummitMateDescription of a new rock climbing route, category 2B, "through the chimney of the South Wall" to Ptitsa peak (2221 m) in Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan.
Ascent Log
- Area – Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, p. 6.2
- Peak – Ptitsa, 2221 m, via the chimney of the South face.
- Claimed – 2B category of difficulty – first ascent
- Route nature – rock climbing
- Height difference – 160 m. Total length – 200 m. Average slope of the entire route – 51°. Average slope of the key section – 60°. Length of sections with IV category of difficulty – 70 m.
- Equipment used on the route: Stopper – 12 pcs, Cams – 18 pcs.