XVIII EAAC (CIS) Alpinism Championship

Report on the Route Completion

Traverse of the Kulikalon Wall from v. Adamtash to v. Zierat, along the Eastern ridge, 5B category, V. Korotkov's route, 1968, completed by the team of the Tomsk Alpinism Federation's training camps

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 2009

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains, 5.3.1, Alaudin and Kulikalon gorges.
2. v. Adamtash – v. Zierat, along the Eastern ridge, traverse.
3. 5B category, V. Korotkov, 1968.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference along the route sections:
   • Section R1–R2 (to v. Adamtash): 1629 m (2950–4579 m);
   • Section R3–R4 (to v. Intermediate): 340 m (4400–4740 m);
   • Section R5–R6 (to v. Mirali): 806 m (4300–5106 m);
   • Section R7–R8 (to v. Mariya): 420 m (4500–4920 m);
   • Section R9–R10 (to v. Rudaki): 100 m (4300–4400 m);
   • Section R11–R12 (to v. Aurondag): 220 m (4350–4570 m);
   • Section R13–R14 (to v. Zierat): 70 m (4250–4320 m);
   • Total height difference along the route: 3585 m.
   • Maximum absolute height difference along the route: 1629 m.
   • Route length: 19 km (28 km, including the approach from Teploe Lake).
6. Pits left on the route:
   • total – 1* / 16** / 2*** / 11****; including pitons – 0;
   • • — previously driven piton for rappelling from a gendarme before v. Adamtash;
   • ** — previously driven pitons, extracted and reused for rappelling from v. Intermediate;
   • *** — previously driven pitons for rappelling from v. Mariya;
   • **** — previously driven pitons for rappelling from v. Aurondag;
   • Used on the route: pitons – 39 (including the listed ones), chocks – 28, including ITO – 0.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 67 hours, 6 days.
8. Team leader: Sichkarenko Valery Gennadievich – 1st sports category, Participants: Koltunova Vera Fedorovna – 1st sports category, Makeykin Nikolay Alexandrovich – 1st sports category, Semenkov Ilya Vladimirovich – 1st sports category, Vavilin Konstantin Sergeevich – 2nd sports category.
9. Coach: Sapunova Yulia Vladimirovna – CMS.
10. Departure from the camp: 13:30, August 13, 2009. Departure on the route: 07:00, August 15, 2009. Return to the base camp: 19:30, August 20, 2009.

Fig. 1. General photo of the traverse route (Photograph taken from v. Ruzirat, August 22, 2009)

1–2 Key to the 4A category route on v. Adamtash, to the Eastern ridge, V. Korotkov, 1968. Approach to the route; 3–4 Key to the 3B category route on v. Intermediate, along the NE ridge, E. Abdulayeva, 1968. Traverse route; 5–6 Key to the 3B category route on v. Mirali, along the E ridge, A. Pozdnyakov, 1992. 14–15 Key to the 3B category route on v. Aurondag, along the N ridge.

Ascent Schedule

August 13, 2009, 13:30 to 20:00 – approach from Teploe Lake in the Kulikalon gorge, through Alaudin pass, to overnight stays at Pialo Lake in the Alaudin gorge. August 14, 2009, 07:00 to 13:00 – attempts to repair a radio station defect detected the previous evening. August 15, 2009, 07:00 to 20:00 – ascent to the shoulder of v. Adamtash (sections R0–R6 of V. Korotkov's route along the E ridge, 4A category), overnight stay on the shoulder of v. Adamtash (Camp 1). August 16, 2009, 08:00 to 18:00 – passage of sections R6–R10 of V. Korotkov's route along the E ridge; reaching v. Adamtash, overnight stay on the summit. August 17, 2009:

• 08:00 to 09:00 – descent from v. Adamtash to the couloir under E. Abdullaev's route along the NE ridge to v. Intermediate, 3B category;
• 09:00 to 17:00 – passage of E. Abdullaev's route along the NE ridge to v. Intermediate; reaching the summit;
• 17:30 to 19:30 – rappelling from v. Intermediate, overnight stay on the saddle between v. Intermediate and the first gendarme on the ridge leading to v. Mirali, at the point of exit to the Visyachiy Glacier ridge. August 18, 2009:
• 10:00 to 11:30 – rappelling from the overnight stay point to the Mirali East Glacier, under A. Pozdnyakov's route along the E ridge to v. Mirali, 3A category;
• 12:00 to 16:30 – movement along A. Pozdnyakov's route, reaching v. Mirali-East;
• 16:30 to 17:30 – descent to Mirali pass, overnight stay on the pass. August 19, 2009:
• 07:00 – reaching v. Mirali;
• 09:00 to 12:00 – passage of the ridge of v. Mariya, bypassing gendarmes, ascent to the ridge to the false summit of Mariya;
• 12:30 to 14:00 – ascent and reaching v. Mariya;
• 15:00 to 18:00 – descent from the summit, passage of the ridge, descent to the SE wall of v. Rudaki;
• 18:00 to 20:00 – ascent to the ridge of v. Rudaki, passage of the ridge to overnight stays under v. Rudaki. August 20, 2009:
• 07:00 – reaching v. Rudaki;
• 09:00 to 11:00 – descent to the saddle between v. Rudaki and v. Aurondag;
• 11:00 to 12:30 – passage of the ridge to v. Aurondag, 12:30 – reaching the summit;
• 13:00 to 15:00 – rappelling to the saddle between v. Aurondag and v. Zierat;
• 15:30 to 16:00 – ascent to the false summit, passage of the ridge and reaching v. Zierat;
• 16:00 to 19:30 – descent to the saddle between v. Zierat and v. Aurondag, descent along the couloir to the glacier to the right counterfort of the NE wall of v. Rudaki, descent to Kulikalon Lake and further along the path along the shore of Kulikalon Lake;
• 19:30 – return to the base camp at Teploe Lake.

Fig. 2. Schedule of the traverse passage.

Fig. 3. Route on the area map (part of the area map published on the MATC "Vertikal-Alaudin" website used).

Photo Illustration of the Route by Sections

Section R1–R2. Route 4A category on v. Adamtash, to the Eastern ridge, V. Korotkov, 1968.

Sections R3–R6. Route 3B category on v. Intermediate, along the NE ridge, E. Abdulayeva, 1968 (the photo also shows part of the descent from v. Intermediate, overnight stay location, and Section R5–R6).

Section R6–R7:

• v. Mirali
• overnight stay
• descent and traverse to v. Mariya

Section R7–R8. v. Mariya.

Section R9–R10. Traverse to v. Rudaki (only the ascent is visible).

Sections R10–R12. Overnight stay under v. Rudaki, traverse to v. Aurondag (photo from v. Rudaki, the descent route from v. Aurondag is shown in green).

Sections R12–R14. Descent from v. Aurondag (rappelling 8×50 m), traverse to v. Zierat.

Notes Found in Control Tours

Note from the I control tour on v. Adamtash, retrieved on August 15, 2009, at 09:00.

Note from the II control tour on the shoulder of v. Adamtash, retrieved on August 15, 2009, at 20:00.

Photo on v. Adamtash, August 16, 2009, at 18:00 (no note found in the tour).

Note from the control tour on v. Intermediate, retrieved on August 17, 2009, at 17:00.

"A group of tourists from Cheboksary, undertaking a category V trip, consisting of 2 people, reached the pass (to the tour): v. Mirali East (name, category, height) on July 18, 2008, at 10:00 via the route: Mirali pass (from where).
Weather conditions: CLOUDY, WINDY.
Group status: NORMAL.
The group is heading towards: Avlo (Don) pass (to where).
Departure time: 10:15.
Group members:
Leader: ROMANOV A. G.
Participants: ROMANOVA A. N.
Note retrieved by the TFA group from Tomsk (tourist club, section, city, registration number) on August 16, 2003, under the leadership of TEMEREV I.
Group leader: ROMANOV A. G. (biglife@mail.com).
Route book number: [blank].
Special notes (wishes): GOOD MOOD, CLEAR WEATHER, LIGHT BACKPACKS."

Note from the control tour, retrieved on the way to v. Mirali on August 18, 2009, at 17:00.

Note from the control tour on v. Mirali, retrieved on August 19, 2009, at 07:00.

"September 14, 2008. A group of tourists consisting of:
Leader: Nefedov Vladimir
Goncharov Alexander
Pasnoy Sergey (Krasnoyarsk)
Cheban Svetlana (Ufa)
Krivenko Tatiana (Moscow)
Kozlov Mikhail
undertaking a category 6 mountain trip, ascended to v. Mirali 5112 m from Mirali pass.
Group status: super.
Today is the 23rd day of the trip.
Descending to Bol. Allo Lake.
E-mail: vovkin@ngs.ru.
ICQ: 1-1248-15-08."

Photo on v. Mariya, August 19, 2009, at 14:00 (no note found in the tour).

Note from the control tour, placed on one of the gendarmes on the ridge of v. Rudaki, retrieved on August 19, 2009, at 19:00.

"August 9, 2009. A group of climbers from UTS 'Tekhnolog' completed an ascent to v. Rudaki along the left variant of the NE wall, 5A category, at 13:15.
Members:
1. Stopchenko K.
2. Voitenko E.
3. Ivanov A.
4. Lukyanova A.
5. Fomin O.
Weather is excellent. Greetings to the next climbers!
Note retrieved by the AK Bars St. Petersburg group on August 24, 2009."

Note from the control tour on v. Aurondag, retrieved on August 20, 2009, at 12:30.

"A group of climbers from Krasnoyarsk gatherings Inozemtsev +3. Ascended to v. Aurondag along the 3B route. Weather is excellent. Time 12:15. July 15, 2008."

Photo on v. Zierat, August 20, 2009, at 16:00 (no note found in the tour).