Pixaxa Frozen Head

45, comb, with glacier A-basoi on the wall to the saddle of the 3rd ridge. Exit to the route from the foot of glacier A-basoi under the wall of the gendarme Amna-Krun of the 3rd rib of the summit. The ascent from the glacier to the wall of the gendarme is done via an ice pitch with a steepness of 50–60° and a length of about 150 m. When passing, steps are cut and ice axes are used (5–6 pcs.). After the ice pitch, there is a gully with rimed ice (30 m) of the same steepness. Insurance is hook, many loose rocks.

From the gully, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (120 m). After the rocks, along a snow-ice slope, exit to a rock route выступ, where an overnight stay can be organized.

From the overnight stay location:

• Ascent along a longitudinal ice slope (120 m) to a rock выступ (island).
• Further ascent along difficult steep rocks to the left of the couloir with rimed ice 20 m, 60–70°.
• The upper part of the couloir flattens to 40–45° (40 m).
• Exit to a weakly expressed rock ridge.
• Movement along a rocky ice slope (80 m) up to 70° to a mulde, then after 60 m along an ice slope - exit to the edge of a gendarme. There is a place for an overnight stay.

All sections of the route are passed with thorough insurance, hook.

Climb along the ridge of the gendarme to its summit, where a control point is located.

Descent to the saddle between the gendarme and the summit:

• Done along a rock couloir (130–150 m) with an average steepness of 60–70°.
• Descent is done in a sportsmanlike manner with hook insurance.
• The couloir is stone-dangerous.

Time from the start of the route to the saddle in good ice conditions and with snow on it is 12–14 hours.

On the saddle, there is a small lake and areas for tents.

The ascent to the summit begins along a wall with a steepness of 70–80° (250 m) with insurance through hooks. After the wall, along a short ridge, exit to the right onto rock shelves, which end in a pronounced angle. Under the angle - an inclined area. From the area upwards along a crack (50–80 cm, 30 m) under the ridge of the summit. Further along rocks of medium difficulty (40–60°, 200 m) - hooks, insurance. Then along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 40–60° (250 m) with insurance through rock and ice hooks, ascent to the snow купол of the summit. A cairn is on a rock island to the right of the купол. Ascent from the купол to the saddle takes 4–6 hours. Descent to the saddle between the summit and the gendarme is done along the route of 45 cat. tr. along a snow-ice slope and rocks of the 3rd ridge. Descent from the ridge to the saddle is done by rappel with leaving a loop of ½ rope (–5 hours). Descent from the saddle in the direction 10–3 along medium scree to a col with a touch of ice. Through the col -