PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge area
3. Peak A. Blok, 5239 m, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Elevation gain 800 m, length 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 300 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 44/30; bolted: 5; chocks: 71/47; ice: 15. Previously hammered pitons used: 0.
7. Team's travel hours — 21 hours, days — 4
8. Overnights — 3 (all bivouac)
9. Leader: Reznik V.A., CMS

Team members:

• Ginde A.R., CMS
• Emelyanov E.G., CMS
• Beletsky V.E., CMS
• Nekhay S.A., CMS

10. Coach: Stepanov I.V., MS
11. Approach to the route: July 15, 1993 Summit: July 18, 1993 Return: July 19, 1993
12. Organization: Alpclub "Bars" (St. Petersburg)

The ascent was made as part of the 1993 Russian Alpine Championship (technical class)

General photo of the summit

1 — GINBURGA route 5B, 2 — VALIEV route 6A, 3 — PETRICHENKO route 5B

Tactical actions of the team

The ascent was based on two tactical plan options:

• I — in normal weather conditions:
  • first day — exit to the saddle and further processing;
  • second day — summit;
  • the next day — descent to the base camp.
• II — in bad weather conditions:
  • exit to the saddle and further processing depending on weather conditions.

On the first day, an ice couloir was ascended (10 ropes, last ropes on ice with a steepness of more than 50°). The next day, in extremely difficult weather conditions, we started processing the route above the saddle. We climbed two ropes exclusively on artificial aids. Overnight on the saddle. On the third day, we processed the route further to the exit to the "Gruyère Head" gendarme. The state of the route is very poor (snow, ice). The next day we ascended the processed ropes and then about 5 hours to the summit. Descent via the ascent route. Descent was carried out with top rope insurance for each participant, the last one — on a double rope with a Prusik knot. There were no falls or injuries.

Photo 8. Processing the "book" — section 9–10. July 21, 1986; 15:00.