I.
Category — first ascent
2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su gorge
3. Peak 5229 (A. Blok) via the West face of the North-West spur
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Height difference: 725 m, length — 800 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections 625 m. Average steepness of the lower bastion — 86°. Average steepness of the route — 75°, of which 6 cat. diff. — 86° (4565–4870 m); — 76° (4970–5115 m)
6. Pitons hammered:
rock — 54/27, bolted — 7/6, chocks, friends — 228/128, ice — none
7. Team's travel hours — 48.5 h, days — 6
8. Overnights: 1–2 under the route in tents, 3 — three in hammocks, five in a tent under the route, 4–5 — platforms trodden in the snow, 6 — lying in different places on the platforms arranged in front of the ridge
9. Team leader: Mikhail G. Bogomolov, Candidate Master of Sports
Team members:
- Valery A. Barsukov, Master of Sports
- Igor V. Bozhko, Master of Sports
- Nikolay V. Drobotenko, Candidate Master of Sports
- Dmitry V. Utochkin, Candidate Master of Sports
- Grigory M. Zinenko, Candidate Master of Sports
- Vyacheslav V. Perepelitsa, Candidate Master of Sports
- Alexander V. Panchenko, Candidate Master of Sports
- Coach: Valery A. Barsukov, Master of Sports
- Departure to the route: July 28, 1986. Summit — August 2, 1986. Return — August 3, 1986.
General photo of the summit.
- 1 — team route via the SW ridge (M. Petrichenko)
- 2 — route 6A cat. diff. (Valiev)
- 3 — route 5B cat. diff. (Ginzburg)
Team's tactical actions
On July 26, 1986, at 14:00, the pair Barsukov–Bogomolov left the base camp for the observation camp located on the East ridge of peak 4200. During the observation, the ascent route was finally clarified, the main landmarks on it were identified, the time to pass various sections was determined, possible bivouac sites were identified, and the lower part of the descent route from the summit was examined. The observation camp is within 45 minutes' walk from the route.
On July 27, by 19:00, the remaining team members arrived at the observation camp.
On July 28, the pair Bogomolov–Panchenko started processing the route at 12:00. Having fixed 90 m of rope (sections R0–R5) by 19:30, the pair returned to the observation camp. From 18:00, the weather deteriorated: wet snow, fog, visibility 50 m.
On July 29, the pair Utochkin–Drobotenko continued processing. Having fixed 100 m of rope (sections R5–R11), the pair descended to the observation camp. From 18:00, the weather deteriorated: wet snow, fog, visibility 50 m.
On July 30, the pair Zinenko–Perepelitsa worked ahead. Having secured 110 m of rope (sections R11–R15), the pair descended to the observation camp. At 15:00, the trio Barsukov, Bozhko, Bogomolov started ascending to organize a bivouac at the end of section R10–R11.
Bivouac — in hammocks.
Weather conditions:
- From 14:00 to 17:00 — fog
- Visibility — 50 m
On July 31, the pair Barsukov–Bozhko worked ahead, reaching the spur by 20:00. The rest of the team followed via the fixed ropes. After the entire team had passed the fixed ropes, the three lower ropes were dropped to the glacier, to the start of the route.
Bivouac — on platforms trodden in the snow at the point of exit onto the spur.
On August 1, the pair Bogomolov–Panchenko processed 185 m of the route (sections R18–R24) and descended to the camp on the spur by 21:00.
On August 2, the pair Utochkin–Drobotenko worked ahead, reaching the summit at 20:30.
Bivouac on stone platforms on the "roof", short of the ridge. Platforms in different locations:
- for five people,
- for two people,
- for one person.
Thus, there were no deviations from the tactical plan during the ascent. There were no accidents or injuries. Throughout the ascent, regular communication was maintained with observers and the base camp. Almost the entire route and the lower part of the descent route were visible from the observation camp.
