Allahuekber Mountains

Description of the traverse of the peaks 60 let KChAO, Peshchera, Septemvri and Kelbesh in the Western Caucasus, difficulty category 3A, climbed in January 1982.

| Characteristic | Value | | :---------------------------- | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | CLIMB CLASS | traverse | | CLIMB AREA | Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Psyysh and Sofiya rivers | | PEAK ROUTE | 60 let KChAO, Peshtera, Septemvri (proposed by the first ascenders), Kelbashi | | ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY | 3A (winter) | | ROUTE DESCRIPTION | – Rock and snow, mostly ridge, absolute altitude difference 643 m | | NUMBER OF PITOONS | 12 | | NUMBER OF TRAVERSE HOURS | 12 hours (from the start of the route to the summit of Kelbashi) |

Report on the first ascent of the route of 4B category of complexity via the North Edge of the peak 2970 m as part of the Stavropol regional mass alpinism event “Vakhta Pamyati — 2013”.

REPORT on the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the summit 2970 m (60 years of KChAO) "via the North Edge", carried out within the framework of the qualifying competitions "Stavropol Regional Mass Alpinada "Vakhta Pamyati - 2013", dedicated to the Victory Day in the Great Patriotic War (1941-1945)" ASCENT PASSPORT Region, gorge, section number according to the 2010 classification table: Caucasus. 2.1. Krasnodar and Stavropol territories up to Marukh pass. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Summit 2970, height 2970, route name — via the North Edge. Proposed — 4B category of complexity, first ascent. Nature of the route: combined.

First ascent of Peak "60 let KChAO" (2970 m) via NE ridge, category 2B, rocky, ridge route.

| CLIMBING CLASS | — rock climbing | | :----------------------- | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | | CLIMBING AREA | — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the Psyish and Sofiya river valleys | | PEAK, ROUTE | 2970 m | | | — «60 лет КЧАО» (proposed by first ascensionists) along the North-Eastern ridge | | EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2B (winter) | | | ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS | — rock, ridge, absolute height difference 380 m | | NUMBER OF PITONS DRIVEN | — 9 | | NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS | — 6 hours (from the start of the route to the summit) |

Report on the first ascent of a 4A category route via the north-west edge of Peak 3226 (Dimitrov-100) in the Western Caucasus.

Peak 3226 (Dimitrov-100) Route: via north-west edge Complexity category — 4A cat. sl. (combined) Leader: S. Bernatsky Western Caucasus, Kara-Jash ridge Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — [email protected] Report On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226 (Dimitrov-100) "Via north-west edge 4A cat. sl. (combined)".

Description of a category 27 climbing route to the summit of Dimitrov-100, including a detailed description of the route, technical information, and terrain features.

Fig. 71. a – initial part of Route 27 (R0–R3); 1, 2 and 3 – Left, Central and Right ("Hockey player") gendarmes; b – view of the South walls and West ridge of Dimitrov-100 peak (sections R3–R10), partially R11 and R12 – from the West ridge of Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak; c – section R11–R12 of Route 27. Photo by V. Bobylyov. View from the North Fig. 70. Sketch of Route 27. Scale 1:3000 Route 27 (Fig. 69, 70). The path to the assault camp "At the lake" under the southern slopes of the 60th anniversary of KChAO peak is described earlier (Route 22). From the base camp "Ice farm" to the specified assault camp – 4–5 hours. The approach path to the beginning of the described route partially coincides with a similar path to Route 26 (3A). From the base of the ascent on Route 26, you need to turn 90° left, towards the saddle between Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak and the South tower of Dimitrov-100 peak. There are three gendarmes on the saddle. The direction should be kept towards the base of the junction of the saddle wall and the South tower wall. A couloir descends here from under the right gendarme "Hockey player". The start of the route. Movement on 30–40° snow. From the "At the lake" overnight stay – 2 hours 30 minutes. The beginning of Route 27 coincides with Route 24 (up to R3). Section R0–R1 (Fig. 71a). Along the left part of the couloir (smoothed gneiss granite) 35 m to a convenient reception point (chip, shelter). At the same time, the overhang encountered after 25 m is bypassed on the left with an exit above it. α = 70°. 3 stoppers.

Report on the first ascent of the route of 3A category of difficulty to the summit 3226 ("Dimitrov-100", Taulan) via the western couloir and the northern ridge in the Western Caucasus.

Peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan). Route: via the western couloir and northern ridge. Category: 3A (combined). Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Karajash mountain massif. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — [email protected] Report On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) "Via the western couloir and northern ridge. Category: 3A (combined)" at the year-round alpine event: "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai' 2012 (class 'First ascents')". Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Orlenok gully. Ridge: Karajash mountain massif. Peak: 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan). Route: via the western couloir and northern ridge, 3A category (combined). Difficulty level: 3A category (combined) (approximately). Prepared by: V. Babkin, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2012. Description of the peak Peak 3226.0 is one of the peaks in the northern part of the Karajash ridge. It is located in the territory of the North Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region, between the Pshish and Sofia rivers. Peak 3226.0 is a prominent mountain of the Karajash massif, located northwest of the nodal peak Karajash (3171.0). The peak is easily identifiable from the upper cirque of the Orlenok gully. The peak does not have an official name, so it has conditional tourist and climbing names:

First ascent description of an unnamed peak (3226 m) in the Western Caucasus, via a 3A category rock climbing route.

| Climbing Category | — Rock | | :----------------------- | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Climbing Area | — Western Caucasus, North-West spur of the Sofiysky ridge between the Psyish and Sofiya rivers valleys. | | Peak, Route | — 3226 "Dimitrov-100" (proposed by the first ascenders) via the East couloir and North ridge. | | Proposed Category | | | of Difficulty | — 3А | | Route Description | — Combined (snow and rock), absolute height difference 450 m. | | Number of Pitons Driven | — 5 (on ascent) | | Number of Climbing Hours | — 8.5 | | Number of Overnights | — not required on the route |

Report on the ascent of the mountaineering route category 2A on the southwestern ridge of the peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) in Arkhyz in May 2013.

Peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the southwestern ridge Difficulty category — 2A category (combined) Leader: A. Sotnikov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Jash mountain massif Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — [email protected] Report On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) "Via the southwestern ridge 2A category (combined)". At the alpinism competitions "Cup of Victory" by NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" (class "First ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gully: Orlenok gully Ridge: Kara-Jash mountain massif Peak: 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the southwestern ridge. Difficulty level: 2A category (combined) (approximately) Prepared by: A. Sotnikov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2013.

Report on the first ascent of the route of 2B category of difficulty to the summit 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) via the western couloir and the southern ridge in the Western Caucasus.

Peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the western couloir and southern ridge Complexity category — 2B cat. sl. (combined) Leader: S. Bernatsky Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Jash mountain range Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — [email protected] Report On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) "Via the western couloir and southern ridge 2B cat. sl. (combined)". At the climbing competitions "Cup of Victory" by NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" (class "First Ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gully: Orlenok gully Ridge: Kara-Jash mountain range Peak: 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) Route: via the western couloir and southern ridge. Level of complexity: 2B cat. sl. (combined) (approximately)

Description of the route to the summit of Sputnik (1B cat. difficulty) via the southern ridge in the Western Caucasus, with a detailed breakdown of the sections and necessary equipment.

Ascent Log. Category: Rock Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskoe valley, Orlenok valley Sputnik (2650). Via southern ridge Proposed category: 1B, first ascent Height difference: 250 m Route length: 900 m. Rock section: 450 m Pitons left on the route: rock 2 pcs. Team's climbing hours: five up, four down Leader: Kolokolnikov Konstantin Vladimirovich