Alay Mountains

Description of a new route of the 5th category of complexity to the summit of Kalkush (4100 m) in Pamir-Alay, climbed by the team led by MS Grigoryev O.Z. via the south-eastern wall.

PASSPORT Climbing category — winter/rock/ Region — Pamir-Alay, Dughoba valley Peak, route — p. Kalkush (4100 m) via SE wall, cat. 5B (approx.) Length — 750 m of wall section. Height difference — 535 m. Avg. steepness — 73° Length by sections: R1 – 255 m R2 – 85 m R3 – 195 m R4 – 20 m

Climbing report on the PriKVO team's ascent to the Sauk-Jailau summit via the western wall, category 3B complexity route.

Sauk-Dzhaylau (Carpathian Military District) CA by 3B cat. diff., O. Onysko, 80 Team preparation for the ascent. Information about reconnaissance. The current team of climbers from the Carpathian Military District is a collective that has existed for many years. This team constantly conducts joint training and has repeatedly made joint climbs of various difficulty categories, up to the highest. Team members took part successfully in the Championship of the Soviet Army and Navy in 1979. The Carpathian Military District team was preparing to participate in the technical class within the framework of the 1980 Soviet Army and Navy Championship in two directions: Physical, technical, and tactical training. Evaluation of information about the championship area, selection of the ascent object, and direct reconnaissance of the area. Physical, technical, and tactical training was conducted in two stages: The first stage — at the place of residence. The second stage — in the Fann Mountains. General physical training was conducted:

Report on a combined route along the icy slope of the northern face of the northwestern ridge of Pik SAGU, category 3B complexity.

2 Teams SACS “BAKA–Dugoba 2012” on the ascent route to Mt. SAGU via the icy slope of the northern wall of the northwestern ridge "3B", (K) Leader Temerev I.M. Participants Timofeev D.I., Matveev S.V., Voronezhceva O.A., Alabugin I.V., Tyshkylova N.P., Selezneva S.V., Mukhametzhanov B.M. Ascent Passport Pamir-Alay, region 5.1.1. Gadjir, Mashalyan, Dugoba, Koyсу, Archakanysh rivers basin (north of the Alay range). Mt. SAGU, icy slope of the Northern wall of the northwestern ridge.

First ascent description of the West Sauk-Jailau I tower via the northern edge, difficulty category 3A, height difference 710 m.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: technical Ascent area: Alayskiy ridge (northern spur) Peak: Sauk Jaylyau Western 1st tower via the northern edge (first ascent) Estimated difficulty category: 3A Route characteristics: elevation gain 710 m, average steepness 53°, route length details see appendix Pitons used for belays to create I.T.O. rock pitons 31 — ice screws 1 — bolt pitons — Total climbing hours 12

Description of the route 2A category of complexity to the peak Kurgan Glavnaya from the west by the Central couloir, with a length of 1200 m and an altitude difference of 700 m.

Kurgan Glavnaya from the west via Central couloir. The route is combined, category of difficulty 2A (fig. 5, 6, 15, 16, 18). Length — 1200 m, ascent — 700 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. The path from "Kirgizat" alpine camp (group of 2–4 people) to the initial bivouac on the moraine of Kurgan gorge under the Central couloir of Kurgan peak — see route 10. Departure from the initial bivouac at 3:00–4:00. Up the scree slope, then up the wide 35–40° scree Central couloir for 600–800 m (rockfall, protection). Further 300–350 m up the right branch of the couloir, from which exit left to a site above the long rocky Western spur — a bastion dividing the upper part of the Central couloir. From the site, 120–150 m up and right along a 30–35° steep scree slope to the snowy shoulder of the Western ridge. From the shoulder, left and 80–100 m up simple and moderately difficult 40–50° rocks of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, protection) to the summit of Kurgan Glavnaya. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours. The route is prone to rockfall!! img-0.jpeg Fig. 18. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west

Traversing the Alay Range with a first ascent of 7 peaks, category 6A difficulty.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent category — traverse Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Alay Range Ascent route — traverse of Alay Range from peak 5529 m to peak Tamdykul with passage of peak 5529 m (peak "30 Years of Victory"), ascent via eastern wall, first ascent, peak 5300 m (peak "Pyramida"), first ascent, peak 5308 m, first ascent, peak 5380 m (peak "Zaщitnikov Leningrada"), first ascent, peak 5200 m, first ascent,

Report by the Ural Military District team on the ascent of Peak 4300 m via the center of the East Face in the Pamir-Alay in 1980, the third traverse of the route.

Report Ural Military District team's ascent to Peak 4300 m via the center of the Eastern wall (3rd ascent of the route by the team from alpinist camp “Elbrus” — 2nd place in the 1980 USSR Championship) Team composition: Kharitonov A.P. — CMS — team leader Zadvoryev Yu.V. — CMS Povolotsky V.Yu. — CMS Tarkhov E.V. — 1st sports category Team coach — Master of Sports Mikhailov A.A. Pamir-Alay

Description of the ascent route to Titov Peak via the northern counterfort, complexity category 4B, with details of passage and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport I. Category of technically complex ascents Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Podkova Kosmonavtov. Titov Peak (approximately 4800 m) via the northern counterfort. 4B category of difficulty. Route characteristics: a) height difference 700 m; b) length of section with IV–V category of difficulty 350 m; c) average steepness 53°. Pitons hammered for belay and creating ITO:

Ascent to the summit of Syinovya Peak (5100 m) via the southwestern counterfort and southern ridge, category of difficulty 4.5A.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION CLIMBING ASCENT DOCUMENT Ascent category — technical. Ascent area — Alai Ridge. Peak "Sыnovey", 5100 m, via the southwest buttress and south ridge. Category 5A difficulty. Elevation gain of the route 800 m, length of 5th category

Climbing Certificate for Mt. Mashalyan via the "Rusty Wall", Category 5B difficulty, 1020 m elevation gain, 890 m of rock terrain, average slope 70°.

Ascent Passport I. Class: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South wall Difficulty category: 5B Route characteristics: height difference: 1020 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty cat.: 890 m average steepness: 70°