Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin gorge
2. Peak name: Peak Odessa (4810 m)
3. Route name: via the center of the bastion of the left part of the northwest wall (Sakharov K.A. 1994)
4. Difficulty category: 6B
5. Route type: rock
6. Height difference: 1260 m Route length: 1619 m Wall section length: 1190 m Section lengths: 5th diff. cat. — 160 m

GENERAL VIEW OF THE SUMMIT. July 1993, "Lubitel-166" camera, distance 1.5 km, height 3200 m. 1 — Sitnik's route; 2 — Vedernikov's route; 3 — team's route.

Team's Tactical Actions

The team's tactics were determined by the extensive experience of climbing in this area, as well as experience participating in Alpine Championships. Preliminary reconnaissance and observation of the proposed route were organized, an approximate ascent corridor was identified, and a tactical plan was drawn up. The team's movement along the route was carried out in accordance with the tactical plan, which was fully implemented. The route was completed in 6 days:

• Days 1-2 — the lower part of the wall was processed (up to section #13). For greater efficiency, the work was carried out in triples;
• Day 3 — the team in full strength started on the route. They covered about 4 ropes above the processed sections, approximately 15 m from the line of movement, there was a flake in the form of a "fig" with a 1 m wide shelf. Having crossed it with a pendulum, a bivouac was organized there. Due to the fact that there were no more shelves for overnight stays ahead, it was decided to spend the night at this location twice, processing the route;
• Day 4 — sections #14-16 were processed;
• Day 5 — having passed the processed ropes and continuing to move vertically upwards, they reached a narrow sloping shelf, on which the last overnight stay was organized before the summit. On the same day, sections #24-28 were processed;
• Day 6 — the team reached the summit, having passed the "roof" with the maximum speed for climbs of such complexity. Along with the processed sections, they covered about 15 ropes.

Ascent Log

1. Category: Technical.
2. Region: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Object of ascent: Peak 4810 m.
4. Category of difficulty: 6B (approximate), first ascent.
5. Route description:
   • Height difference: 1050 m,
   • Length of sections: 6th category of difficulty 603 m, 5th category of difficulty 360 m, 4th category of difficulty 145 m,
   • Average slope: 78°.
6. Pitons used:

Passport

1. Class: Technical ascents.
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Object of ascent: Peak 4810 m, Northeast wall.
4. Difficulty category: 6B
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: –1050 m. Route length: –1443 m. Length of sections:
   • 6th cat. diff. – 708 m.

1. Climbing category — altitude-technical.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-su river gorge (tributary of Karavshin river).
3. Object of ascent — Pyramid Peak, 5509 m, via the eastern spur, combined route.
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1890 m, route length — 2520 m, including 5–6 category of difficulty — 1350 m, average steepness — 49°.
6. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Ice | Nuts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 40 | 0 | 50 | 39 |

Passport

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river). 3. Peak Pyramidal (5510 m) via the central counterfort of the northern wall. 4. First ascent, category VI complexity (tentative). 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1720 m, route length: 1985 m, length of sections: 5–6 cat. diff. — 1665 m, 4 cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness:

1. main part of the wall — 76°, 2) rest of the route — 66 — 66°.

6. Number of pitons used: | rock | chocks | ice |

1. Class — technical.
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Su gorge.
3. Peak 5030 m, via North-Eastern ridge, combined.
4. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1270 m, length 1672 m, length of sections 5 — 120 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 4, ice 6, chocks 39.
7. Climbing hours — 26, days — 2.
8. Overnight stops — I, on the ridge, lying down.
9. Leader: Tengiz Aleksandrovich Verulashvili, 1st sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Peak 4490 m («Ptitsa») via the central buttress of the N wall.
4. Proposed category — 6B, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 780 m, length — 810 m. Length of 5–6 category sections — 630 m, of which 6 category — 450 m. Average steepness — 72° (3710–4490), steepness of the wall section — 77° (3760–4390).
6. Pitons hammered in: | Type | Primary | Additional | | :---------- | :------ | :--------- |

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Altai, Turkestan Range.
3. p. 4490 m («Ptitsa») via the central counterfort of the N wall.
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 780 m, length — 810 m. Length — 5–6 category of difficulty — 630 m, out of which 6 category of difficulty — 450 m. Average steepness — 72° (3710–4490), steepness of the wall section 77° (3760–4390).
6. Pitons hammered in:
   • rock: 131, out of which 94 removed
   • bolt: 8, out of which 4 removed

Peak Serebryanaya стена

4050 m.

REPORT

of the Tomsk region team (TFA) on the ascent to Peak Serebryanaya стена via the western slope. "1B", (sc)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Kopytov F.A. Nadymova A.I., Temereva E.O., Terekhin V.A.

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION:

1. Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge (Kara-Su river valley), 5.4.3.