Pamir-Alay
Route Description: каминам ЮВ стены
SSummitMateReport on the ascent via route "5B" through the SE wall gullies of Serebryanaya Stena peak (4050 m) in the Kara-Shibe gorge by a team from the Tomsk region.
Peak Serebryanaya стена
4050 m
Report
Tomsk Region (TFA) team ascent report on the route to Peak Serebryanaya стена via the chimneys of the SE wall "5B" (rocky). Tomsk – 2011
Participants
- Temerev I.M.
- Smaikina S.V.
- Kovaleva A.V.
Ascent Passport
Route Description: В кф.
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the South summit of Serebryanaya стена 3850 m in the Karavshin valley via the East counterfort, cat. 4A.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin Valley (Kara-Su river basin) 5.4.3.
- Peak — Silver Wall, South Summit 3850 m, via East Buttress
- Proposed — 4A category of difficulty, first ascent
- Route type — rock climbing
- Route characteristics: elevation gain of the main part — 600 m, route length — 800 m. length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 75 m, 4th category of difficulty — 370 m
Route Description: В кф.
SSummitMateA description of the climbing route with photographs of key sections, including an overall view and details of the route passage.
General view of the route
on the right
R3–R4 section
□
R7–R8 section
R8–R9 section, top
view
R9–R10 section
R11–R13 sections
R13–R14 section
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
SSummitMateAscent via the SW wall of Peak Slesova (4240 m) in the Pamir-Alay range, cat. 6A, 1590 m, 1200 m elevation gain, 3 days, 35+ climbing hours.
- Rock climbing.
- Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin.
- Peak Slesova (4240 m) — via SW wall.
- 6A category of difficulty, presumably, first ascent.
- Height difference: 1200 m, length 1590 m, average steepness 61°, steepest parts 72°, length of sections
- 5th category of difficulty 550 m
- 6th category of difficulty 336 m
- Pitons driven: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | Ice pitons |
Route Description: центру Ю стены
SSummitMateThe route to Chimtarga peak via the south-western counterfort through the shoulder of Chimtarga peak, complexity category 4B.
11.1205a-4240 28.0793. 45–45 44
- 62 39, 34, 37, 35, 32, 31, 30, 29, 28, 26, 27, 25, 241, 23
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the Northwest Wall of Peak 4240 (Slesov), **Turkestan Range**, **Pamir-Alay**, 6th cat. of difficulty, 986 m, 810 m height difference.
I. Class of Rock Climbing Ascent
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su river gorge.
- Peak 4240 (Slesova) via the North-West face.
- Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
- Height difference: 810 m, route length: 986 m. Section lengths:
- R5–R6 — 874 m
- R6 — 789 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 81° (3430–4210 m)
- Number of pitons used: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons |
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateDescription of the passage of a category 6B route on the North face of Peak 4240 (Slesova) in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.
Passport
I. Rock climbing category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su river gorge 3. Peak 4240 (Slesova) via North wall (Pogorelov's route) 4. 6B complexity category, third ascent 5. Height difference 810 m, length — 986 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 874 m, including 6 cat. diff. sections — 789 m. Average slope of the route — 71°. Average slope of the wall section — 81°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 128/48, chockstones 276/138, bolted 2/2+36
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateAscent to Slesova Peak via Pogorelova route, center of the North wall, 6B category of difficulty.
Pamir-Alay
- Type — rock.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river).
- Slesova peak via the center of the North face (Pogorelov's route).
- Category 6B.
- Height difference — 940 m. Length — 1065 m. Length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty — 960 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 79°.
- Number of pitons used: rock pitons, drilled holes for skyhooks | 69 | 1+45 * | 268 | 41 |
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateDescription of a 6B category complexity route to Peak 4240 in the spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge, climbed by the Dnipropetrovsk regional sports committee team in 1988.
Passport
I. Rock category 2. Spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge 3. Peak 4240 via the right part of the N-3 wall 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, second ascent 5. Height difference 940 m, length 1020 m, length of sections with category IV difficulty — 385 m Length of sections with category V difficulty — 370 m Average steepness of the route — 70°, average steepness of the wall section — 80° 6. Pitons hammered:
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateDescription of the route along the North face of Peak 4240 in the spurs of the Turkestan Range, category of complexity 6B, first ascent in 1988.
Passport
I. Rock climbing category. 2. Spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak 4240 m, center of the North face. 4. Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent. 5. Height difference 830 m, length 968 m length of 6B sections — 583 m, 5B — 267 m average slope of the route — 75°, average slope of the wall section — 81° 6. Driven pitons: rock placement elements bolt ice