1. Climbing category — altitude-technical.

2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-su river gorge (tributary of Karavshin river).

3. Object of ascent — Pyramid Peak, 5509 m, via the eastern spur, combined route.

4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.

5. Height difference — 1890 m, route length — 2520 m, including 5–6 category of difficulty — 1350 m, average steepness — 49°.

6. Pitons driven

7. Team's travel hours — 36.5, days — 5 (including 1 day waiting for good weather).

8. Overnights on the route — 4, bivouac.

9. Team leader — Oleg V. Nazarov, Master of Sports

Team members:

• Vyacheslav S. Marchenko, Candidate for Master of Sports
• Igor V. Kirillovskiy, Candidate for Master of Sports
• Gennadiy V. Makarov, Candidate for Master of Sports
• Mikhail Yu. Filkov, Candidate for Master of Sports
• Dmitry A. Usevich, 1st sports category

10. Team coach — Alexey D. Pugachev.

11. Departure to the route July 4, 1987, to the summit July 8, 1987, return July 9, 1987.

12. Organization — LOS DFSO Trade Unions "Trud", Leningrad.

F. No. 1. Pyramid Peak, 5509 m. Photo taken on June 30, 1987, 13:00, lens T-34, focal length 4 cm, distance 4 km, shooting point No. 1, height 3600 m.

F. No. 2. Route profile from the right. Photo taken on June 30, 1987, 7:00, lens T-34, focal length 4 cm, distance 7 km, shooting point No. 2, height 3200 m.

F. No. 3. Route profile from the left. Photo taken on July 1, 1987, 8:00, lens T-34, focal length 4 cm, distance 3 km, shooting point No. 3, height 4500 m.

F. No. 4. Panoramic photo of the area. Photo taken on June 30, 1987, lens T-34, focal length 4 cm, distance 4 km, shooting point No. 1, height 3600 m.

Tactical actions of the team

The tactical plan during the ascent included:

• bypassing the lower rocky section of the spur on the right along the snowy slope, then exiting to the rocks of the spur with subsequent movement along the left side of the spur to the rocky bastion;
• passing the middle part of the spur first along the snow-ice slope, bypassing three "gendarmes" on the right into a small failure of the spur after the third "gendarme", from which snow cornices hang. Then approaching and overcoming the rocks, leading to the snowy ridge of the spur;
• overcoming the ice cornices at an altitude of 5100 m along the passage on their left side with further exit to the main ridge.

In addition, as a result of observations, the following was found out:

• the safety of passing ice cornices and snow-ice slopes can be ensured due to early passage;
• the slopes of the spur are illuminated at 8:00 am;
• organization of overnight stays is possible almost along the entire length of the spur.

These considerations were taken into account when developing the tactical plan as follows:

• the number of participants on the route — 6 people;
• passing the ice cornice in the upper part of the spur is carried out from overnight stays as close as possible to the passage;
• passing the rocky belt in the middle part of the spur during one travel day;
• a reserve day was planned for bad weather.

The route by travel days and sections was generally passed in accordance with the tactical plan. On the second day — July 5, 1987 — movement along the route was not carried out due to bad weather, the overnight stay remained in the same place, as provided by the tactical plan option.

The lead rope team changed, as a rule, every 5–7 ropes. Preliminary processing of route sections was not carried out. On sections of 1–7 categories of difficulty (partially), the group's movement was carried out along a fixed rope (perils), on the remaining sections, alternate or simultaneous (depending on the terrain) movement of the rope teams was carried out along the left pitons.

Team's movement schedule:

• July 4, 1987: Approach from the base camp, exit to the route at 11:00. Exit to the rocky bastion at 16:15, stopped for the night at 19:30.
• July 5, 1987: Heavy bad weather throughout the day, no movement, overnight stay in the same place.
• July 6, 1987: Movement from 8:00 to 19:00 — passage of the rocky belt of the middle part of the spur. 19:00 — arrangement of a bivouac on a snowy ledge of a rocky outcrop.
• July 7, 1987: Movement from 8:30 to 10:30 — exit to the snowy ridge of the spur. Until 18:00 — passage of the snow-ice ridge. 18:00 — organization of a bivouac on the ridge.
• July 8, 1987: Movement from 8:00 to 10:00 — approach and overcoming the ice cornice with exit to the main ridge. 15:30 — exit to the summit. 16:00–18:00 — descent along the snow-ice ridge-slope towards Zap. Vadif Pass.
• July 9, 1987: Continuation of descent to the base camp — 8:30–18:00.

The organization of overnight stays was carried out on ridges and snow-ice slopes by cutting ice and clearing snow.

Safety measures:

• piton belay and belay using nuts on the entire route, blocking pitons on perils;
• organization of perils on sections of 1–7 categories of difficulty;
• organization of overnight stays in safe places;
• reducing the distance between intermediate pitons on rocky areas covered with snow;
• use of imported rope with good dynamic characteristics;
• exact implementation of the planned ascent plan.

There were no falls, injuries, or illnesses during the passage of the route. Fundamentally new equipment samples were not used. Unstable weather prevailed on the days of the ascent. On July 5, 1987, heavy snowfall occurred throughout the day, and movement along the route was not carried out. On July 7 and 8, starting from 16:00 or 17:00, it snowed. Abundant fresh snowfall made it difficult to move along the main ridge of the peak and the ridge of the spur, which was a series of "gendarmes" with hanging snow caps connected by narrow ridges, which required participants to be accurate in their passage and careful belaying when overcoming it.

Regular and stable radio communication was maintained with the base camp using the "Lastochka" VHF radio station.

Route diagram

Route passport (technical data by sections)

Travel hours — 9.5

Travel hours — 11

Travel hours — 9.5

Route description by sections