Pamir-Alay
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Ascent route description to the Khacionti summit via the north spur wall with technical details and passage tactics.
PASSPORT
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Northern spur.
- Peak 4810 m.
- First ascent 6B cat. diff. (approximately).
- Route characteristics:
- height difference – 1110 m
- length of 6B cat. diff. sections – 1140 m
- « — » « — » 5B cat. diff. – 300 m
- « — » « — » 4B cat. diff. – 65 m
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Report on the ascent made by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to the top of Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the center of the northwest wall following the Voronov route, rated as category 6B.
Agency for Physical Culture and Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai
KRAEVAYA FEDERATSIYA ALPINIZMA
Russian Championship in Alpinism 2008
Class of Technical Ascents
Report
On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Odessa 4810 m via the center of the northwest wall. Voronov's Route, 6B category of complexity Third ascent, variation Coaches: Zakharov N. N.
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of a winter ascent of Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the NW wall, made in February 2008 by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3.23a
- Peak — Peak Odessa 4810 m. Via the center of NW wall (Voronov 88)
- Assumed — 6B, third ascent, variation
- Route character — combined
5. Route characteristics:
route elevation gain 1000 m, route length — 1350 m. length of 6th cat. diff. sections — 1050 m, 5th cat. diff. — 180 m. average steepness of the route — 70°
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
First ascent of the NW wall of Peak 4810 in Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, 6th cat. of diff., 53.5 hours of climbing, 5 days.
Passport
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
- Peak 4810, via NW wall.
- Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
- Height difference — 1200 m, length — 1425 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 945 m, of which 6 cat. diff. — 725 m. Average steepness — 75° (3600–4810 m), of which 5–6 cat. diff. — 83° (3650–4520 m).
- Pitons driven: | | Bolted pitons | Chocks | | :---------- | :------------ | :---------- | | Rock | 69 | 268 |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of the passage of the route 6B cat. via the northwestern wall of Peak 4810 in Pamir-Alay by the team of Moscow State University in 1990.
Passport
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Kara-Su gorge.
- Peak 4810 via the center of the NW wall (Kopeyka route)
- Category of difficulty — 6B, third ascent.
- Height difference — 1200 m, length — 1425 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 945 m (6 category of difficulty — 725 m). Average steepness — 75° (3600–4810), including 5–6 category of difficulty — 83° (3650–4520).
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolt | | :--: | :--: | :---: |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Report on the ascent of the national team to the summit of Odessa via the center of the northwestern wall, category 6B complexity route.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Odessa (4810 m) via the center of the northwest wall, category 6B complexity, by a combined team from Tomsk-Leningrad and Kemerovo regions from 29.07.2018 to 04.08.2018 g.
I. Ascent Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Team Leader | Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich, MS |
| 1.2 | Participants | Aldyn-Kherel Timur Valerievich, 1st sports category; Kashevnok Anton Aleksandrovich, CMS; Suzdaltsev Egor Evgenievich, CMS |
| 1.3 | Coach's Full Name | Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich |
First ascent of the "4810 m" peak via the center of the northwest wall in the Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, with a detailed description of the route and the team's tactical actions.
PASSPORT
- Technical class
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karasu gorge (tributary of Karavshin river)
- Peak "4810 m" via the center of the northwest wall
- Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Height difference 1210 m, length 1546 m Length of sections with 5B-6B category of difficulty is 1140 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 78° (3600-4660). Sections of 6th category of difficulty: 90° (3600-3860, 4350-4460), 85° (4150-4210), 80° (4000-4120, 4530-4560), 70° (3900-3980)
- Pitons hammered:
Rock pitons Bolt pitons Chocks Holes for sky hooks
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Ascent of Peak 4810 via the Northwest Wall, 6B difficulty category, third ascent. The report includes a description of the route and the team's tactical actions.
Passport
- Class — technical
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river)
- Peak "4810", center of the North-West wall (Kritsuk route)
- 6B category of difficulty, third ascent
- Height difference 1210 m Length 1546 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 1140 m, Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78° (3600–4660), Sections 6 cat. diff.: 95° (15 m), 90° (370 m), 85° (60 m), 80° (150 m), 70° (80 m)
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Report on the ascent of a Category 6B route via the northwest wall of Peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range in 1988 by a six-person team led by Alexander Shevchuk.
Passport
I. Technical class 2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge 3. Peak 4810 m, center of the northwest wall 4. Proposed 6B cat. sl. second ascent of Krishchuk's route 5. Height difference: 1160 m, length — 1480 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. sl. — 825 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 75° (3650–4670) Of these, 6B cat. sl.:
- 80° (3650–3800, 3875–3915, 4110–4195, 4220–4280);
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
First winter ascent via the center of the Northwest wall of Peak 4810 (Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range) via Kritsuk Route, cat. 6B.
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3.
- Peak 4810, 4810 m, via the center of the North-West wall, Kritsuk route
- 6B cat. diff. (first winter ascent, combination)
- Route type: combined
- Route height difference: 1180 m Route length: 1515 m Section lengths:
- V cat. diff. – 521 m
- VI cat. diff. – 884 m