Pamir-Alay
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of a grade 6 difficulty route via the North Face of Pik Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay.
Passport
- Rock class.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
- Peak 4230 m (Asan), center of the NW wall.
- 6B category of difficulty.
- Height difference 830 m, length 1015 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 865 m, of which 6 cat. diff. 415 m, 5 cat. diff. — 450 m. Average steepness of the route 78° (sections R0–R26, heights 3400–4230 m) and in them 6 cat. diff. 85° (260 m, 3540–3800 m, 110 m, 3890–4000 m).
- Pitons driven: | Piton type | Total | Driven | | :--------- | :---- | :----- | | Rock | 129 | 21 |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Report on the ascent of route 6A category of complexity via the North-West wall of Pik Asan (4230 m) in Karavshin valley, made by the team of Ryazan regional federation of mountaineering and rock climbing in 1999.
— 1 — 6А 2-е μ² 4¹/² 4¹/² Peak Asan (4230 m) via the NW wall center, 6А cat., Gorbенко route, 1986. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range. Karavshin gorge.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent plan — technical
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin gorge
- Peak Asan (4230 m) via the NW wall center, Gorbенко (Odessa) route, 1986, ninth ascent
- Cat. — 6А
- Height difference — 830 m. Length — 1015 m; including 5–6 cat. — 865 m, with 6 cat. — 415 m. Average slope — 78°, 6 cat. — 85°.
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of a new 6B category route ascent via the northwestern wall of Pik Asan in Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
- Peak Asan, via the left part of the NW wall.
- Proposed — Category 6B difficulty, first ascent
- Route type: rock
- Route height difference: 930 m (3300–4230)
- Route length: 1010 m. Section lengths: Category V difficulty – 105 m, Category VI difficulty – 710 m. Average steepness: main part of the route – 89°, entire route – 74°. Number of pitons left on the route: total – 32; including bolted pitons – 32. Pitons used on the route: bolted stationary – 32, including artificial aids – 19; removable bolted – 0, including artificial aids – 0. Total artificial points of support (AID) used – 150. Team's walking hours: 90.5 hours, 11 days. Team leader: Mohyla Volodymyr Fedorovych — Master of Sports
- Participants: Lavrinenko Oleksandr Vadymovych — Candidate for Master of Sports; Nikolaev Vadym Valeriyovych — Candidate for Master of Sports; Cheban Viarel Ivanovych — 1st sports category
Route Description: СЗ стене
Ascent to the summit of Ashan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range, category 6 complexity, route description and key moments of the 1988 expedition.
ASCENT DOCUMENT. 6A
- ASCENT CLASS. ROCK.
- ASCENT AREA, RIDGE. TURKESTAN.
- PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE, ROUTE CHARACTER: Asan 4230 m, 3rd wall.
- PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6A cat. diff.
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION CHANGE, LENGTH OF SECTIONS OF 5/6th difficulty category, AVERAGE STEEPNESS 72°. Elevation change: 890 m. Total length: 1125 m. Length of sections with 5/6th difficulty: 475 m, steep rock: 445 m. Steepness of the wall section: 82°.
- NUMBER OF PITOONS: FOR PROTECTION.
Ascent of Peak Asan via NW wall, 6A category of difficulty, 4230 m, Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay, 2004.
- Rock climbing.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
- Peak Asan via NW wall, CTMGW 5.4.3, 4230 m
- 6A category of difficulty
- Height difference — 830 m, including the wall — 780 m Length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 450 m, including: 6 category of difficulty — 185 m. Average steepness — 66°, including: wall — 78°.
- Pitons used: Rock Drill-in Nuts Ice 60/7 5/24 90/5 0/0
- Team's travel hours: 42 hours.
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the passage of the route 8 category of difficulty via the north-west wall of Peak 4230 in Kyrgyzstan in 1988 with a detailed description of the tactics and technical details.
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of a category 6 route up the Northwest wall of Asan peak (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range, climbed by a team in 1988.
PASSPORT
- ROCK CLASS
- NORTHERN spurs of TURKESTAN range, KARA-SU gorge
- ASAN peak 4230 m via NORTH-WEST face
- 6B cat. diff.
- ELEVATION: 840 m, LENGTH: 965 m LENGTH OF 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 695 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS OF THE ROUTE — 69° (3390–4230), including 6 cat. diff. — 81° (3560–3920)
- PITOONS HAMMERED: | rock | bolt | chocks | | :---: | :--: | :---: |
Report on the ascent of Asan peak (4230 m) by a team of climbers via the center of the northwest wall in 1988, featuring a detailed description of tactics and safety measures.
CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR 1988
ROCK CLIMBING CLASS
1st place.
Report
On the ascent to the summit 4230 m (Asan)
via the center of the Northwest wall
Team of the Alpine Club of the 12th Sports Club of the SAVO
Team leader: Ovcharenko S.V.
Senior coach: Ilyinsky E.T., Honored Coach of the USSR
Route Description: СЗ стене
The group completes a 6A category route through the Northeast face of Pik Asan (4230 m) in the Karasu ridge.
Ascent Record
- Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay region, Karavshin-Karasu gorge, №5,4,3 according to KVGK
- Peak Asan (4230 m)
- Pogorelova route via the left part of NW wall, 6A category of complexity
- Route type: rock
- Route elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1100 m Section length: V category of complexity 625 m, VI category of complexity 345 m Average steepness of the route: 78°
- "Hooks" left on the route: total 2, including 2 pitons
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of a category 6 difficulty route to the peak 4230 m in the Turkestan Range, first ascent by the team led by Alexander Pogorelov in 1986.
Passport
I. Class of rock climbing ascents. 2. Zaalaysky range, Turkestan Range, Kara-su river gorge. 3. Peak: peak 4230 from the West along the wall. (ASAN) 4. Proposed — 6 cat. diff., first ascent. 5. Height difference — 890 m, length — 1188 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 826 m, length of sections 6 cat. diff. — 654 m, average steepness of the main part — 79°, average steepness of sections R4–R53 — 81°, average steepness of sections R31–R53 — 83°. 6. Pitons driven
| Rock pitons | Chocks | Bolts |
|---|---|---|
| 124/47 | 264/109 | 45/37 |